Mont St. Michel

Why not just stay on the Mont? Although the hotels are probably a little more expensive here, they're still pretty reasonable, if rather small. You'll be there at the best time of day (evening and night). You can then tour the abbey first thing when it opens in the morning. You'll be well on your way by the time the first tour bus vomits its load of daytrippers.

I agree with Tom, I would stay on the Mont (we love it), and, as Tom said, you'll be there for the best parts of the day: morning and evening/night.

I agree with Tom and Susan. Stay on the Mont that evening. We did that and it was so beautiful. We were able to walk around after dinner and really take it in.

And I agree with Tom, Susan and Elisabeth about staying on the mont. You can walk out at night and get a nice view of MSM with no crowds and get up early the next morning and enjoy the sunrise and the Abbey before the huge crowds invade. Good opportunity for photos without too many people distracting from the photo. We found an older room inside the walls for a very reasonable price. Not a room with all the amenities but it was clean with a private bath. We basically spent only our sleeping hours in the room so this one served us just fine.

Janet

You only think you have a problem. You've actually conundrumed your way into the best way to see it.

As you've figured out, it's going to take two arm, one leg, and your first-born to sleep there. The Poulard family has just about a monoply on the hotels and, I suspect, on the restaurants as well. A few months ago a half beer set me back eight bucks -- absolutely horrible. Not only is the food expensive, it's about as bad as you can get.

When you finish at Caen/Bayeux, you're an hour and a half, max, from MSM. Go there, right then. Drive all the way out the causway and park at the end. If you're lucky, you'll be late enough that you won't even have to pay to park. If you're really lucky, the junky souvernier shops inside the walls will be closed as well.

Once inside, there's not much to do. Walk up the street and then walk down the eastern wall. This will take you forty-five minutes. You'll think you've missed something, but you haven't, but go ahead and do it again. (The abbey will be closed, but it's not worth seeing.)

Now, scram. On you way back out the causeway, stop, look back, and take your pictures. That's the best view of the mont -- lighted in the dark.

It's probably about eight thirty. Drive to St Malo (forty-five minutes), having already made your reservation for the night in a place that will cost half as much -- but don't go straight to the hotel. Instead, drive up to the wall that parallels the recreational marina, go inside, take a right and eat at any of the many seafood places. Moules are the meal of choice, but anything is great. The meal will cost you about a third of what it would have in MSM, even if you had bought the cheapo crepes.

I've been to MSM a few more times than once, anf finally perfected the way to see it.

We have stayed on the Mont twice and it was well worth it--especially if you are there when the tide is high. I would definitely advise against eating at Mere Poulard's--even RS said it is skippable. But we had to try it anyway. The omelet was awful, husband's meal less than mediocre, staff was surly in attitude--had to request bread three times. The "l'addition" came to 100 euros and was a waste of $$$.

I would agree with everyone who has suggested you stay on the Mont. We stayed there a few years ago, in a "lower priced" option ( I believe in RS's book)-- had a private bathroom, a balcony and a million stairs to climb..but it was very memorable. We followed RS's suggestions, arriving late in the day (when tourist shops are closing and tourists are all going home) and leaving early the next morning.

Here's my biggest suggestion-- if you stay on the Mont, bring a picnic dinner, a bottle of wine, cups and a bottle opener! As you've heard from others, the food it horrible, all owned by the same family, overpriced, and totally sub-par. There are a million nooks and crannies where you could sit and have a picnic while watching the tide come in.

I would say that there is something completely magical about being on the Mont when the tide comes in, in the morning waking up and still being on an island is just surreal. We got to the Abbey in the morning at opening time (before tons of tourists arrive), visited, and were on our way to St. Malo by 10am. I really enjoyed the Abbey, and would recommend seeing it (with few tourists!).

There is one exception to the terrible food rule on Mont St. Michel- Restaurant St. Michel. This seems to be the only restaurant not owned by the same company that owns all the rest. I had a delicious moderately priced meal here. The other restaurants? As other posters have noted, mediocre food, and they all seem to have identical menus... literally, they even use the exact same menu cards, changing only the name of the restaurant.

We were there last July, arrived at 6:00 PM, got our room for 5 (pricey, but very nice, quaint, and memorabe - La Moulin Blanc, I think) then had a horrible dinner (should have packed a picnic!!!!) and then proceeded to see the abbey near sunset and...

It was magical!!! Is it the fanciest abbey? no. But that's not the point. It is uniquely constructed and designed (basically on the top of a needle), and much of it is almost a 1000 years old. It flat-out beats 90% of the other quasi-religious sites we have seen.

Just sleep there. Even if it is imperfect, it will be memorable. Most of your better hotel stays will be quickly forgotten. Not this one.

"It is uniquely constructed and designed (basically on the top of a needle)". Let me add to that. It's like an anvil sitting on top of a needle.

At any time, MSM is an incredible jewel. During the day, however, it is very crowded and the plethera of tacky souvenir shops are a bit disappointing. But at night, it is a magical place. Having the ability to walk around and experience the Mont after it is closed is worth the price of the "overpriced" hotels. It did put a dent in the travel budget, but I am so glad I did it.

I stayed overnight on MSM last August. I woke up early enough to be the only person out and about the ramparts leading up to the Abbey, and early enough to watch the sunrising. I think I ventured out around 7:00am. For that one hour, I was one with MSM. We stayed in a hotel room on the ramparts which was part of Augerge St. Pierre. The best part of the room was the location and the door (medieval). The interior was pretty dismal and old. I found MSM very special. I wish it were possible to spend more time there without the crowds.

I stayed on Mont St. Michel last October with my husband, and I would highly recommend it. Being on the island at night when all of the tourists were gone was a magical experience. We walked all over the island in the dark, and it was beautiful. It was also facinating to watch the tide come in and the travelers scramble to move their cars before the tide came in. We stayed at Mouton Blanc (a Rick Steves recommended hotel) for a very reasonable price. Our room was small, but we were very pleased with our accommodations. I would also highly recommend that you stop an a grocery store, and pick up food to take with you; the food on the island was terrible.