Marseille - Redeeming Characteristics?

Hi Rose! What time of year are you going? I spent long weekends in Marseille on 2 separate occassions. I actually LOVE the Vieux Port and could spend hours there, holding down a cafe' table, smoking a cigar and nursing a tall beer. It is a gritty and characterful old port and makes me imagine what the old mediterranean must have been like. Go early for the open-air seafood market. Catches are right off the boat. Really nice. Also be sure to order bouillabaisse for lunch at one of the many quay-side restaurants. (One of my most embarrassing travel stories is that I had no idea how to eat the stuff... and the cook actually came out and gave me a quick lesson!) Beyond the Vieux Port I hiked up to Notre-Dame de la Garde for the view. Saw a WWII Sherman Tank on display at an intersection on the way up. Also took the boat out to Chateau d'If, an island of Count of MonteCristo fame and the Frioul Islands. Desert Islands with plenty of secluded coves. The main advantage that you have is that you will be there with friends. How bad can it be? Best wishes, whatever you decide!

Thanks, Thomas! It would be in September. I have a few other trips on the cards for 2014 as well, but the consensus for the France trip is most likely 2 weeks in early September.

That's certainly the best time of year to be in Southern France. Beautiful weather and most of the crowds are already gone. Fun.

Marseille is Europe's City of Culture this year. Look here: http://marseillecityofculture.eu/

I recall other posts in which some people said they detested Marseilles and others said they love it. I've stayed there twice, a day each time, and enjoyed it immensely. I wouldn't make a special trip to go back, but if I found myself there, I'd have no problem returning. We stayed in the Vieux Port both times, and did a lot of walking, including through the Panier district and out from the port following the water away from the more visited parts. We did see some of the seedier parts (maybe not the worst parts, and not at night), but even that didn't bother me.

I have had a few days there a couple of times and really did enjoy it. It's definitely not the little village in Provence that I adore, but I was there with friends and we had a great time. I had heard that it was scary, etc., and one person in our photography group told us we should hide our cameras and pretend we were not photographers. Well, that was never going to happen, so we had a great time. Another day a friend and I were hungry and since it was not lunch we were having a hard time finding food. We stopped in a little café, kind of dowdy looking to see what we could find. The owner/waitress said she would find us something. In about 10 minutes she served up the most delicious lunch for us. I would not make it a destination, but as someone else said, I would have no problem going back if my flight dictated it. One thing I did like is because I did not feel there were tons of 'tourist stuff' to do, I had time to just hang out with my friend, although I am sure there are sights we missed.

The view of the entire city and harbor from the top of the hill on which the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde is perched is outstanding. Plan on a 30-minute walk or take bus #60 from the port departing from cours Jean Ballard. And seeing the church itself is a must. It's a 25-minute train ride from Marseille to Cassis, an old fishing village. There also is bus service. Here's a quote from Rick Steves: "Come to Cassis to dine on true bouillabaisse, swim in the crystal-clear water, and explore its rocky calanques and fjord-like inlets." Calanques are the rocky inlets created by cliffs that border the shore. You can take boat rides that explore three, five, or even more of them.

Rose, it's not clear from your post if you've previously been to Marseille and hated it, or if you've never been and have heard bad things. If you've been and hated it, I'm not sure anyone can change your mind. In that case, go to Cassis or Aix or Arles instead. But if you've never been, keep an open mind. If you can handle New York, you can handle Marseille. I was there for two days, and enjoyed my time. I did not find much English there (and so my French improved over my short stay), but others here have posted that they did not have trouble finding English. Rick has sightseeing suggestions in his Provence And The French Riviera book (not in his general France book). I mostly found it an interesting place to wander - it's quite different from other French cities. I never felt in any danger, despite the perception that Marseille is a dangerous place.

Thanks, everyone. Harold, no, I've not been to Marseille, and I don't typically pay attention to or let myself be swayed by stereotypes. The trip I'll be on is entirely French villages, except for those last couple days. I honestly don't understand why a final stay couldn't have been scheduled in Aix or Cassis, in close-enough proximity to Marseille to allow easy transition to a good airport for departures. It feels like Marseille will change the whole tone of the previous 12 days, and because it's at the end, it is the feeling I'll probably somewhat take home with me. So, if I do ditch the group, Aix or Cassis will likely be my destination - unless I decide to go to Villefranche-sur-Mer and fly out of Nice (which is what I really want to do). I left things unfinished in Villefranche last time. :) Still, the good comments here and that I've received via DM are opening my thoughts more to Marseille. Thanks.

Given your previous comment I would go to a village and finish up there. It's kind of like going on a fall color tour of the east coast, and then spending the final 3 days in the chaos of NYC... not truly keeping in the vein of the original trip. I understand what you mean, so with this many reservations already, I would not want to change the overall 'ambience' you have imagined for this trip. Check out Marsailles when you have a different agenda.