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Just Back From Germany

My husband and I just got back from a bit of a whirlwind-but-fantastic trip of the western part of Germany and I wanted to share some random thoughts. Please pardon the helter-skelterness of this post (and wide, sweeping generalizations).

On our trip we visited (and had a car the entire trip): one night in Bonn (wish it had been more, we'll definitely go back), a quick stop in Aachen on our way to Monschau for 2 nights, 2 nights in Zell on the Mosel River, 2 nights in Bacharach on the Rhine River (supposed to be 3, but we left early, see below), a day in Strasbourg, France, with a drive through the Black Forest and dinner in Baden-Baden (wanted to put eyes on it to get a feel if we should return - we will), and one night in Heidelberg.

Now for the Random Notes portion:

1) German driving is exquisite. If there was a push to have one central driving school for the world, I'd nominate Germany to teach it.

2) Germans are among the friendliest people we've met. I mean, we usually meet friendly people wherever we travel, but the Germans by-and-large as a group are just so darn nice!

3) The language barrier was not nearly as challenging as I thought it could be. Whenever my husband and I would be in a pickle where we needed to communicate something using more than the 20 words we collectively know in German, we'd ask sprechen Sie Englisch? and invariably the person would humbly respond, "Yes, but only a little" and then proceed to launch into English with such fluency just shy of being a physics professor.

(con't)

Posted by
811 posts

4) Our favorite places were Bonn (a very cosmopolitan-feeling town), the Mosel River area (very romantic and beautiful), Strasbourg (even though my husband was uncerimoniously welcomed by an unscrupulous pigeon who'd just eaten a 7 course meal), our short time spent in the Black Forest (need to go back and spend time to fully appreciate it), and Heidelberg.

By the way, we stayed at the Hotel Weinhaus Mayer in Zell and it was great. Our room had a balcony overlooking the Mosel, wine glasses, and a corkscrew, which just begged "get a bottle of wine, sit on the balcony, and enjoy the river show." We did. Both nights.

5) Speaking of Heidelberg, I don't know for the life of me why Rick Steves' writes about it so disparagingly. Yes, there are a lot of native English speakers, but the Schloss Heidelberg was among the best castles we saw, the furnicular ride to the top of the hill was one of our top 3 favorites so far, walking along the Neckar River was a highlight, and overall, the city had a great vibe.

6) Our least favorites (and please don't flame me...) were the Rhine region (around Bacharach) and Monschau. The Rhine area felt significantly more industrial than the Mosel and overall, the castles were cool to see but we realized pretty quickly we aren't big castle tour-ers, and we just weren't feeling the area. Which is why we left and moved on.
Monschau is a picture-perfect little town, but felt almost too picture-perfect, as if its charm and quaintness only existed for tourists. We didn't have a choice but to stay for 2 nights (meeting family), but a half day would have been plenty.

(con't)

Posted by
811 posts

Finally, I want to mention the weather. I diligently checked the weather daily before the trip, analyzed average temp charts, and looked at meteorologist studies (ok, I made that last one up) but... the weather was nothing like it should have been. It was hot - HOT! - and I'm not sure if that was unseasonable or not. So if you are going soon, you may want to pack light clothing to be on the safe side. And lots of sunscreen.

Phew, this is a long post of random notes, thank you for hanging in there. If anyone has specific questions, feel free to PM or post and I'll do my best to answer.

Danke!

Posted by
2908 posts

Hi Angela,

Thanks for writing! We also loved the Mosel and have similar feelings to yours about the Rhine.

Paul

Paul

Posted by
1481 posts

Angela,

We also just got back. We turned right around and bought tickets for our next trip. This is the second time in a row that it has happened this way. I am beginning to suspect an addiction on my part. Just be warned.

Glad you had a great time.

Regards, Gary

Posted by
2297 posts

Great report! I agree pretty much on all points with you though I just cannot understand how anybody can call the Middle Rhine area "industrial" (well, being a miner's daughter born in the Ruhr region may give you a differenct perspective). Sure, the traffic on the river is heavy and very commercial/industrial but that's part of what makes this area so unique.

"the weather was nothing like it should have been"

lol that's pretty much the reason why I never manage to pack light when going to Germany - or I end up freezing in August ....

Posted by
30 posts

Thanks, I enjoyed your report. I just got back from Germany, too, and had a great time, and am already planning my 2010 visit. I had the same experience with people saying they only speak a little English, and then speaking it with no problem! I too enjoy Heidelberg.

Posted by
811 posts

Hehe - thanks for the warning, Gary, about the effect Germany can have on a person. We, too, had already been discussing where and when to go back, nice to know we're not alone in this. And they say, admitting it is the first step...

As far as the Rhine being "industrial," well, that's probably a poor choice of words to a miner's daughter! :) I think we had just been so taken with the natural beauty of the Mosel, that when we got to the Rhine it didn't have the same breathtaking effect. I've been sitting here thinking about the best way to explain the felt difference, but I'm finding it hard to succintly describe! Maybe it was the presence of a lot more cement walls lining the banks, the fact the train tracks seemed much more apparent, and that the current was significantly more swift than the lazy Mosel (so no swans quietly floating around).

Either way, we're definitely glad we stopped by. After all, the towns were filled with very nice Germans!

Posted by
2193 posts

I’ll submit that Deutschland just has to be about the best place on Earth!!!

Posted by
588 posts

I too enjoyed your narrative. We stayed in St Goar rather than Bacharach. I loved watching the working commerce on the Rhine. I felt like I had come home. My daughter and I call St Goar our second home. When I returned from my trip I discovered my maternal ancestors came from the Palatinate (Rhine) area of Germany. Perhaps the genes were kicking in when we were there. We too are planning to return.

Posted by
590 posts

The weather is cooler and rainy now. I agree that Germans have a bad rep regarding their attitude. I find them very polite and helpful. Germany is one of the few places that I have been that I am willing to visit over and over again!
I am still in Germany and I am already thinking about my next trip!

Posted by
135 posts

Angela, if you should find yourself in the Rhine area again, you might want to visit Schloss Johannisberg, where the famous (and my favorite white wine) Johannisberger Riesling is grown and bottled. As usual in Germany at a picturesque spot, there's a wonderful restaurant and wine bar connected to the castle, with a large sun terrace overlooking the river. They have various events and regular wine tasting tours. I've just about talked myself into going back there on my next trip. Their website has an English version. www.Schloss-Johnnisberg.com

Posted by
400 posts

Have all you Germany fans been in any of the other countries? I've been to Germany twice and yes, I do love it for all the reasons all of you state. But I've also been to Austria, Switzerland and just last year, Italy. I AM addicted to Europe. So many places to see here in the states but my thoughts & desires always want me to go back to Europe. Problem is where to next...I love them all. I have to admit Italy (and maybe it's because I just left there) is calling me a little stronger than the others.

Posted by
1481 posts

Linda,

We lived in Germany for 6 years (military) and had the opportunity to visit much of Germany and several places in Europe. I liked Germany best, perhaps because it was home. Italy was second with me for the warmth and openness of the people. There were so many good places.

I return to Germany as it calls like a second home. Having been in the military, you look for roots where you can find them.

Regards, Gary

Posted by
4555 posts

Linda....Spain, without a doubt. Fascinating, unique culture and people....and cheaper than other W/European countries.

Posted by
590 posts

I think I am one of the few that didn't care for Italy. And yes I have traveled more than Germany. However after Germany, Poland and Romania are my favorites. I think after my trip I am done with Western Europe for awhile and must travel to the Eastern parts. I liked the East much better than the west.

Posted by
30 posts

Yes, I've been to other countries, liked them all, and also loved Italy, Norway, and Switzerland. But Germany is my favorite.

Posted by
671 posts

Gary, I am a military brat. I lived in Germany for six years and my mother is German. When we landed in Frankfurt in December, I whispered, "I am home." I understand looking for roots. I have connections to a few places. : )

Angela, we, too, really had a great time in Heidelberg. I had been before in the summer and enjoyed, but this time we explored on a December winter night. It was just us and the locals, exploring the stores and the Christmas market!