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Itinerary for Switzerland and Austria

My husband and I are planning our first trip to Switzerland and Austria. We– we land in Zurich and have 13 days before we are booked on a train from Vienna to Prague. I have poured over Ricks books, but still need some advice. We do not enjoy big cities as much as the countryside, street and locals are more interesting than museums to us, we are moderate hikers, and moderate adventurers. I want to leave Zurich upon landing, we land late morning, and begin to see the rest of Swistzerland immediately. I do not know what direction to go....we want to go to Luzerne for 1 maybe 2 nites, Murren for 3 nights, Lausanne for 2 nites and then head to Austria.perhaps via Chur? We are travelling by rail and would like to include the Golden Pass, the Chocolate train and the Glacier express. We would like to see Salzburg, Halstatt and end in Vienna with a possible side trip to the Eagles Nest in Germany. The more I read, the more I want to do it all !! Here are my questions so far! 1. Should we head straight from Zurich to Lausanne and work our way back? Should we go from Zurich to Luzern to Lausanne to Murren then to Brig to catch the Glacier express? What about Zurich to Luzern to Chur to Murren???? 2. I don't think we want to stay in Chur, where is a close by alternative? 3. What is the best way to continue into Austria? Via rail or rent a car? If so where do we rent a car? 4. Have I missed something here that you consider a must do?
5. I have allocated 3 nights in Vienna, can I get away with 2 ?

Posted by
17442 posts

That will work. Nights 1 & 2 in Luzern-there are trains going there directly from the Zurich airport, with no changes. Train to Lausanne (or nearby, see below) on Day 3 via the fast route through Bern. Nights 3, 4, 5 there, with the chocolate Train on Day 5. You might look at staying in Vevey, a small lakeside town between Montreux and Lausanne. Smaller, quieter, more charm. Whichever town you choose on Lac Leman, you head to Montreux to pick up the Golden Pass route to Interlaken and your stay in Mürren. Alpina would be an excellent choice in Mürren. We always stay at Chalet Fontana as we have a large group (7 or more people), but I do miss having a balcony there. Murren to Chur by way of the Glacier Express makes for kind of a long day on the train. You need to be on the 9:06 train leaving Mürren to get to Brig to catch the Glacier Express, which passes through there at 11:18. The total timeto Chur is around 6.5 hours. Since you don't wish to stay in Chur, you could consider stopping in one of the smaller towns on the route (the GE does make a few stops). Maybe Disentis? Or Fiesch-you could use the afternoon time to ride up the Eggishorn for some great views (an a nice hike if you like). From one of these town you could continue the next day through Chur and on to Innsburck for your Austria segment.

Posted by
6898 posts

Debbie, your plan looks good but here are my thoughts. One thought would be to take the train from Zurich to Spiez and pick up the Golden Pass scenic train west to Montreux. From Montreux, you can take the Chocolate Train to Gruyeres and Broc and then return to Montreux. You can then take the train from Montreux to Lausanne. You might want to spend one night there. You'll need to look at the Swiss train schedules as the actual scenic trains are not that frequent. Other trains run on the same tracks but the actual scenic trains may be what you want. From Lausanne, you take the train to Luzern. You can spend just the day there or stay overnight. From Luzern, you again take the Golden Pass or other local train on the same tracks to Interlaken Ost and then into Murren. After Murren, take the train to Brig to pick up the Glacier Express to Chur. I would suggest that Chur be your jumping off place to Austria.

Posted by
258 posts

IF you have the time, I would advise ONE night in Zurich. For a "big city," it's charming, clean, elegant and very pleasent. I agree that the focus in Switzerland should be the alps, but Zurich is a great, world-class city, that I think you'll enjoy. I, personally, loved it. In Bernese Oberland, don't miss the Jungfraujock (Rick details how to "do this" very easily). Train ride up and views from up-top are amazing. Another "must"- Schilthorn (also described in Rick's guidebook). The cable car ride up is thrilling and the views from the observation deck of the Piz Gloria restaurant are nothing short of breath-taking. I could have spent all day just taking in the views (which sppear to go on forever!) Salzburg is just lovely, but if you're pressed for time, you can do it in, say, 1 day and overnight. Just don't miss the fortress and the Salzburg cathedral. Vienna is anoter 1 of Europe's great cities, so I WOULD suggest 3 days there, time permitting, but it could be done in 2 if you maximize your time, decide exactly what you want to see (Rick's suggested itinerrary at front of Vienna secction of his Germany/Austria book is super helpful). I hope this helps. You are right-- there IS so much to do/see in the region, but like Rick always suggests, don't try to do TOO much in one trip. His mantra is "assume you WILL return!" This helps in eliminating potential redundencies, and leaving those for future trips. Have fun!

Posted by
10 posts

Thanks for your suggestions. I have a scheduling problem with the Chocolate Train, it only runs on Wed and Thur in June, that would be Day 5 or 6 for me, so I am thinking it would be best to take in Luzern and then head to Lausanne first, and then do the best part of the Golden Pass back from Montreau to Interlaken and Murren. Have either of you done the Chocolate train? Is it worth scheduling around? Any favorite hotels? I'm thinking of the Alpina in Murren, but can't decide between staying in Monteaux and boating to Lausanne for the day, or staying in Lausanne. We def plan to do breakfast at the Piz Gloria and do some hikes there, as well as the Jungfrau.
I agree, it makes better sense to head to Brig after Murren, thanks for that.

Posted by
6898 posts

Debbie, there are other regular trains that run on the same tracks to the same places as the Chocolate train. On some runs, its a train/bus combination. You can see the runs on www.rail.ch

Posted by
258 posts

Another tip, if it helps, for hiking. 1 of my best hiking experiences was in the First Mountain Range: http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/travel/getting_around/cable-railways/first-even-today-a-dream.htm You experince head-spinning views while in the gondola going up, and up top there are ENDLESS hiking possibilities. We had some time, so chose to do a 1/2 day hike, but there are many marked trails, some easier, all great fun. The longer one did took us past cows, fields of flowers, glaciers off in the distance, small lakes; I'm telling you, it was heaven for a hiker who LOVES the Swiss alps! Wow, just thinking about it now makes me want to return right now! Grindelwald itself is a lovely place to stay, but, sounds like your plans call for Murren, which is also beautiful, you won't be disappointed. Although, did you consider Rick's favorite in the region; Gimmelwald? He waxes poetic about it in his guidebook (and on his show) and w/ good reason. It's certainly less touristy, more "real" then the other neighboring villages (although hardly empty; 1 of the ironies of Rick raving about it as much as he does). I think he single-handidly put it on the tourist map! Albeit, for certain kinds of travelers; there are no upscale or glitzy hotels, restaurants, etc.

Posted by
54 posts

Switzerland is amazing! Our favorite country so far! We landed in Zurich and spent one night. We went to Appenzell which we loved. Then we went to Lucerne and took a boat over to Mount Rigi. We loved Lucerne I would spend 2 nights there. Berner Oberland is great! Follow Rick's plan you can't go wrong. Enjoy!

Posted by
162 posts

We didn't do the Chocolate Train but did go to the Callier Chocolate factory and also to Gruyere and the cheese factory there. Callier was okay. The film at the beginning is in French and then all you do is walk thru some dark display areas. You don't really watch anything being made. The best part of the whole place is the tasting room. Watch out or you will soon be sick from gorging yourself on all the samples. They get better as you walk along the long line of chocolates. If you eat enough you will have no interest in buying anything at the shop as you exit. haha. Gruyere was better. The little "town" on top of the hill was cute but it exists solely as a tourist site. There are a few cafes to eat, a castle and a museum. The cheese factory at the bottom of the hill was more interesting than Callier. You get an audio guide to listen to as you walk along the displays. If you time it right you can watch a batch of cheese being made. If you get there at the off times then there is less to see. Check their web site for cheese making schedule times. We thought this was a nice day but in comparison to the other thing you have on your list it would not reach the top. I would be inclined to spend an additional day in Murren instead. THAT will be a for sure highlight for you. If you decide to go, you could take other trains to the same locations and not do the official "Chocolate Train or even rent a car for the day and see even more things. You could stop at Chateau De Chillon in Montreux or wander around the hillside vineyards near Vevey. Those are spectactular.

Posted by
258 posts

Sara is spot-on re: Rick's suggested itinerraries. Follow his for Switzerland and you really will see the best/maximize your time. Keep his book w/ you as you travel, and you CAN'T go wrong! @Sara, glad you enjoyed your trip there as much as I did. I loved it so much, that I actually did it again a few years after trip #1! Friends were going and invited me to join, and I GLADLY did! The coutryside, hiking, nature, clean air, mountain views, food, people (somewhat "reserved" at 1st, but as long as you are friendly/courteous/polite, learn a few basic German/French expressions, etc., they seem to warm up); ALL makes for memorable experiences that'll last a lifetime. Great to see that others share my love for this terrific part of Europe!

Posted by
10 posts

Thanks so much for all of your tips and suggestions!! I will try to encorporate as many as possible..... why ask someone who's been there before, for their advise, unless you take it seriously?? I have dropped the Cholocate train , so many other things to do! I am considering dropping the Glacier Express since it was simply a way to get back across the country. I believe our time will be better spent with an extra day in the Oberland. Making a loop from Zurich to Bern to Lausanne to Murren back to to Luzern and then off to Austria !! I'm now researching a new pair of Merrells and where to eat or not to eat !
This site has it all!