Germany / Austria / Prague Help

"Our interest are historical buildings (castles, Palaces etc.)"

Berlin and Munich were of course nearly flattened in the war and perhaps not the best locations for hunting down historical buildings. For palaces, there's Sansoucci in Potsdam outside Berlin, of course. You can see Nymphenburg Palace in Munich. Travel an hour from Munich to Prien for Herrenchiemsee Palace, 2 hours to Hohenschwangau Palace and Neuschwanstein (often called a castle, but it's not.)

German Castles: Not much in Berlin or Munich. If you're going to Berlin from Prague, you might take a detour to visit Wartburg Castle in Eisenach and Veste Coburg on the way. Burghausen, northwest of Salzburg near the border, is a good option, but also a sizable detour. The thing is, with 7 days including Berlin and Munich, there's barely enough time for both cities, and really no time for detours. If you dropped either Berlin or Munich, you could instead fly into Frankfurt and spend a couple of days visiting the Rhine & Mosel Valleys, where you'll find an intense concentration of genuine castles, including Burg Eltz, Marksburg, Reichsburg, and Rheinfels, all of which can be toured. After a couple of days there (maybe 2 nights in a Rhine base town like Mainz, only 20 min. from FRA) you'd be a 4-hour train ride from Munich or 5 hours from Berlin, and you'd have 5 nights in the big city, time for a day trip or two AND the place itself.

Marksburg Castle
Reichsburg Castle
Rheinfels Castle
Burg Eltz Castle

We were in both Munich and Berlin for a few days in May. One of our days in Munich we drove down to the Garmish-Partenkirchen area and rode the cable cars to the top of the Zugspitze. It was one of our favorite days of our trip. Even though we couldn't see anything from the top due to the snow, we still loved being up on the summit and lunching in the restaurant on top. I also would recommend Nymphenburg Palace in Munich. If you are still looking for places to stay, we stayed in a B&B in Trudering that was right next to a bus stop and had very easy access to downtown. It was called Bed and Breakfast Zeevat and the hosts were very friendly and helpful.

In Berlin, two of our recommendations would be the Checkpoint Charlie museum which gives you stories of people who escaped East Germany into West Berlin and the Berlin Zoo.

I think "active but realistic" is a great description of your itinerary. You will be on the go, and will need to do lots of advance research to pick your own personal "must sees," as you will only have time for a taste of each city.

I haven't been to Salzburg, but it is smaller than your other cities, so if you need more time elsewhere, you can probably cut a day there.

If you're interested at all in German history, you will want to budget as much time as you can for the German History Museum in Berlin. If you are interested specifically in Cold War and Berlin Wall history, I think there are two sights that are better than the Checkpoint Charlie museum: the DDR Museum and the Berlin Wall Memorial near Nordbahnhof Station (there's a great exhibit in the station itself about the "ghost stations" and escapes through them, and then you see several free movies about the Wall, then see the only existing section that shows the "double wall" construction).

You will also probably want to take some walking tours in Berlin and Munich, to learn more about the history than you can see just looking at the building exteriors. For instance, the building in Munich where Hitler joined the Nazi Party still stands, but I only learned this by taking a "Nazi Sights" walk. I took two walks in Vienna; one was good, but the one guided by Brigitte Timmermann was outstanding. If I return, I'd take whatever walk she was leading, regardless of subject (she is the one who did the research for the Third Man walk and book). Almost any walk in Berlin will be laden with history, so you can take your pick (Nazi period, Cold War period, Jewish life, gay life, etc).

Here are links to Berlin Walks, Vienna Walks, and Munich Walks. Of course, there are other companies. But beware of the "free" tours, which can be bigger on entertainment than history.

There are three castles not farther than one hour by train from Prague. Or you can take an organized tour from Prague which would be, of course, more expensive. Karlstejn, Krivoklat, Konopiste. See Rick Steves book: Prague and the Czech Republic. Museums dealing with history: Museum of communism and KGB museum in Prague. The owner of KGB museum is also a guide there. He is Russian, speaks also English and Czech. You will hear history of KGB and USSR from little different angle. I was not surprised when he told me that his father was an NKVD (predecessor of KGB) officer. IMHO the museum is a little overpriced but worth it. See Trip Advisor. Google KGB museum in Prague.

Hi,

Great that you're going to Vienna and Berlin. If you're not too discriminating as to what qualifies as a Burg or a Schloss that you would include visiting palaces/chateaux in Berlin and nearby, say Potsdam, I would recommend Schloss Charlottenburg, Schloss Köpenick, Schloss Babelsberg, Neues Palais in Potsdam. Of the four Schloss Babelsberg I would skip a return visit. The other three are well worth it in time and interest.

You might consider seeing Dresden as a day stop between Prague and Berlin, it is quite amazing to see how they've managed to rebuild the town that was razed at the end of WWII and neglected by the Soviets, all since reunification. In Berlin, I found the Checkpoint Charlie Museum to be very overpriced and the exhibits disorganized. I much more enjoyed the outdoor "billboard museum" along the line of the Wall. I very much enjoyed the DDR Museum - a hands-on trip back to the days of East Germany and life under the Soviets. It's small, but packed with exhibits on all facets of life. It's right across the river from Museum Island.

In Vienna, the Schonbrunn Palace and Gardens are a must-see. After that, the Hofburg Complex was a let-down. To visit the Habsburg State Apartments (Hofburg Complex), I first had to go through the Silver Collection, room after interminable room of dinnerware and silverware, then the extensive Sisi Museum, with little to see, but just about every detail of the Empress's life. There are fewer rooms on view than at the Schonbrunn, and they are almost identical to those at the Schonbrunn. After all, it was the same couple who occupied both (Schonbrunn in summer, Hofburg in winter) and they apparently were quite happy to find everything in the one just as they had left it in the other.

In Prague, if you plan to visit the Jewish quarter, much of it closes early on Friday and all day Saturday, so Sundays are usually the most crowded due to the backlog. I did a day trip (local bus, about 1 hour ride) to Terezin and it was fascinating - Terezin is a walled city with a fortress that the Germans turned into a concentration camp. They also used it as a "model camp" to show the Red Cross and other international visitors.

Thanks for the great comments. Any suggestions on hotels for each location? We like to stay in the main areas close or in the action. We are budgeting for two rooms for the 4 of us and are wanting to stay in the $150-$250/nt range for each room.

thanks for all the help,
David

Great itinerary.

In Vienna try Pension Sacher. Must book months in advance. Right it the center. Some of the rooms have washmachines. No breakfast but a bakery on bottom floor.

Salzburg try Weisse Taube.

Prague so many good ones. Hotel Metamorphis is very nice and right next to Old Town Square.

With 3 nights in Salzburg you might be able to swing a daytrip to the Lakes District. A great daytrip from Munich is Regensburg.

Great trip you have planned.

I agree, active but doable. FWIW, I wouldn't give Salzburg three days, I'd cut it to two and spend the extra day in Berlin.

Chani is probably right about Hofburg vs. Schoenbronn. In Vienna, I went to Hofburg instead of Schoenbronn to save time. Then I found myself wandering through silver and Sisi to get to my objective. Never saw Schoenbronn but I'm sure it's a better experience and four days should give you enough time for that and more.

Have fun!

Thanks to everyone for the information. I have used this information and added and extra day in Berlin. I have also booked in two of the hotels mentioned. This has been very helpful.

I have booked my hotel for Salzburg, Vienna and Prague. Any suggestions for Munich and Berlin.

In Munich, I am crossed between staying in the area RS recommends (i.e.. Hotel Royal, Conrad Hotel) vs close to Mairanplatz (Hotel Schlicker). I will be with my wife, mother-in-law and 16 yr old daughter. We are very active and we are out early and back late. Just curious about walking with my family in the Hotel Royal area around 11pm at night. Any suggestions.

In Berlin, the two areas I am looking at is around the Zoo and I think the other area is Mitte. Any recommendations

thanks again,
David

"In Berlin, the two areas I am looking at is around the Zoo and I think the other area is Mitte. Any recommendations." Although I love the Berlin Zoo and think it's one of the best in Europe, the area immediately around the zoo didn't look like the most scenic. Possibly all the construction in the vicinity at the time I last visited may have colored my perception.

Whearas the Mitte area, you have the Brandenburger Tor, Museum Island, Unter den Linden, the Reichstag, Potsdamer Platz and the eastern edge of the Tiergarten all within easy walking distance. Guess which area I would prefer?

Tom,

Thanks for the information.

The area around Berlin Zoo itself is notoriously grotty, I wouldn't bother unless you really want to be able to go and buy porn without walking more than five minutes from your hotel. Further out either side of Kurfurstendamm or towards Savignyplatz is nicer, but still IMO not as interesting or public-transport-connected as other parts of town.

David

Your intended focus may leave you "castled out" so you may want to guard against that.

As for Munich, we have stayed at the Hotel Concorde a couple of times. It is in the Alt Stadt about 2 minutes walk from the Hofbrau Haus and Marienplatz and should fit in your budget. Also, if you intend to visit Dachau, note that it is closed on Mondays. In addition to other recommendations, you may want to consider a visit to the Munich Olympic Park. BMW HQ is across the street and has a fairly new and extensive museum if you are into that.

Salzburg is one city where I would recommend getting a tourist card (the Salzburg Card, obviously in Salzburg.) It will pay for itself rather quickly. We have never stayed in a hotel in Salzburg, but instead have always stayed in B&Bs in Anif just on the south edge of town. I can provide names if you wish. Also, Salzburg is about a half hour drive from Berchtesgaden and Hitler's Eagle's Nest to the south. And just over the mountain to the east (about 90 minute drive) is the salt-mining village of Hallstadt pasted on the side of the Alps above the Hallstadt See--an interesting day trip.

As for Berlin, my choice of areas to stay would be Mitte. We have stayed at the Riverside spa hotel. Rooms are a bit old, but it's on the Spree River at Friedrichstrasse only a 10 minute walk to Museum Island (where you should not miss the Pergamon Museum), about 20 minutes walk to the Brandenburg Gate, 30 minutes walking to Alexanderplatz. Of course there is public transportation all around, but we really enjoyed the central location and nearby bistros etc. Rick's radio program(s) about Berlin (available on line) is quite helpful. It's been quite a while since we've been in Prague, but for me, I think I would trade a day in Prague for an extra day in Berlin and/or some time in Dresden.

Have only been to Vienna once, but would like to return. The architecture is breathtaking.

Greg, thanks for the information. I am still looking at the Concord and the Schlicker. One question, your note said the Brauhaus and Marienplatz was a 2 min walk. Is that correct or a typo?

Plans in Munich is to do the castle tour one day and Dachau another day. I have some concerns that with jet lag I may not be giving enough time in Munich

Our thoughts are the same in Salzburg. I am planning the Sound of Music/Hallstatt tour on one day and Berchtesgaden on another day. I have booked the Best Western Elepant which is in the old town.

I have decided to extend my trip one more night to add a 4 night in Berlin. Do you still think I should give up one day in Prague and add a 5th night in Berlin or Munich? In Berlin we have booked the Radisson Blu which is right next to Alexanderplatz.

I agree, looks like I will have to plan another trip back to Germany to see the castles.

thanks
David

"One question, your note said the Brauhaus and Marienplatz was a 2 min walk. Is that correct or a typo?" I'm sure that if you actually looked at your watch and timed the walk between Marienplazt and the Hofbräuhaus, more than two minutes would have elapsed, but I think his point was to note that it's a short, easy walk.

The real question is how long is it from hotel Concorde to marienplatz

Do you mean the "Tulip Inn Concorde"? That's the only one I see with a similar name in Munich. If so, looks like a few minutes walk. Central Munich is fairly compact, and easily navigated on foot.

Hi,

Do you mean the Berlin Zoo, to which you've gotten answers, or Bahnhof Zoo?

True, the area around Bahnhof Zoo isn't really great at night, it's gone downhill. The Motel One is located next to the station. Further down ca 10 min. walk from Bahnhof Zoo is Savignplatz on Kantstrasse. That's a much better area. Several Pensionen, small hotels are on Kantstrasse, Carmerstrasee, and Grolmannstrasse, at the other end also on Wielandstrasse.

Savignplatz is also a S-Bahn station, from where you can go straight to Mitte getting off at Bahnhof Friedrichstrasse for sights, the Brandenburg Gate, Pariser Platz, Unter den Linden, the German History Museum (DHM), etc. Plus, you have direct access to Berlin Hbf and Berlin Ostbahnhof from Savignplatz.

As for the area being served by public transportation, Savignplatz borders on Kantstrasse where you can board several bus lines, either at Bleibtreustrasse or Wielandstrasse.

Tom,

I see the confusion, I meant Concord de Ville which is near the train station.

For our trip to Berlin earlier this year we stayed at the Holiday Inn Berlin - Mitte on Hochstrasse. It was a great location, several grocery stores, drug store, restaurants, etc around it. There is a S bahn station Gesundbrunnen, like a block up the street, a small park across the street, a small mall up near the S bahn station that has a store like a Target/Walmart with food and a food court (we had great Chinese here one night). The rooms were great, staff very friendly and helpful and they do have breakfast every morning but we didn't do that, I think it was an extra 15-20 euros. We will be staying at this hotel again.

In Munich we always stay at Hotel Europaischer Hof (www.heh.de). Its an older hotel but very clean, great staff, excellent breakfast, just across from the Hauptbahnhoff and has a 20% discount if you book and pay far in advance. There are also entrances to both S and U bahn stations at the corners, its two stops to Marienplatz, maybe a 20 minute walk to it, has a few grocery stores nearby and some great restaurants nearby. We're already looking forward to our trip next year.

Thanks Karen for the information

In Munich, the Hotel Jedermann is enjoyable. It's between the Marienplatz and the Oktoberfest grounds. It's also within a 5 minute walk of the main train station. In Prague, we stayed at and loved the Cloister Inn. It's on a side street near Old Town and is a converted convent. The room was big by European standards with a living room and a bedroom and bath. It was very reasonable and the breakfast was delicious. When we travel, we prefer to find b&bs or if we are in a small town, we prefer to stay in working farms. We enjoy being in a privately run place vs a bigger hotel. We enjoy talking with the locals and living more like a local instead of a tourist. We've even helped milk cows a time or two.

I will echo earlier postings and recommend only 2 nights in Salzburg.

Ok, I see a few suggestions on reducing 1 night in Salzburg. Here is my new itinary:

Fly into Munich
4 nights in Munich
3 nights in Salzburg
4 nights in Vienna
4 nights in Prague
4 nights in Berlin
Fly out of Berlin to US

My plan for Salzburg was:

• Arrive from Munich around 1-2pm and explore the city (night #1)
• Day #2: Take sound of music / Hallstatt tour (night #2)
• Day #3: Take Eagle's nest tour and explore city in the afternoon (night #3)
• Day #4: Take early train to Vienna

So, my questions are:
1. With this plan, does it still make sense to keep the 3 nights
2. If not, where should I put the extra night (Munich or Berlin)

thanks,
David

David,

Good choice with the Hotel Elefant in Salzburg! We stayed there for three nights when we visited Bavaria, Tyrol and Salzburgerland this past September. The Elefant's location is fantastic and it's quite convenient to walk out the front door and stroll through Old Town. The restaurant on the first floor had a pretty good schnitzel. We especially enjoyed the complimentary breakfasts. It was a generous, varied spread of meats, cheeses, eggs and pastries that were of good quality and left us feeling full enough that we generally didn't need a big lunch.

When we were in Salzburg, we spent a day in Berchtesgaden. We both felt this was one of the best days of the trip. We signed up for a half-day Eagle's Nest tour, booking online a few months in advance. I think we paid in the neighborhood of $75/person, and it was money very well-spent. The five-hour tour was led by a German woman who spoke perfect English and had an astonishingly vast knowledge of Berchtesgaden and the Nazi Party's influence there. The tour price included all transportation from the Visitor Center to the museum and bunkers (called the documentation center), a full tour of the documentation center, as well as transportation to Eagle's Nest. As the entire documentation center exhibits and signage were in German, our tour guide's ability to discuss the exhibits and provide translation and historical information vastly improved our experience. Had we gone it alone, well, a lot of the exhibits would have been lost on us.

The morning of our Berchtesgaden visit, we spent a couple of hours at Konigsee. Although touristy, the lake is spectacular and taking the boat ride to the islands is worth your time. I would highly suggest giving yourself at least a half-day there, as we were rushed during our time and almost missed our Eagle's Nest tour due to a time crunch.

Lastly, if you're a beer fan, make sure to check out the Augustiner monastery and brewery in Old Town. We had one of our most delicious (and cheapest) meals in the vast beer garden there. The atmosphere is lovely, casual, and quintessentially European. The food and beer stands are self-serve, and you can grab a seat in the biergarten or eat in one of the ornate halls inside.

Enjoy planning your trip!

David, we just spent 3 nights this past October in Ramsau which is just west (about 10 minutes) of Berchtesgaden. We did a day trip to Salzburg - about 30 minutes away. Did the Eagles Nest and the Koenigsee like Jen. Even ate dinner one night in Hallstatt, Austria - about an hour away. I don't think you can go wrong with anything in this area.

David,
I agree with everything Jen B. said. Hotel Elefant is perfectly located to see Salzburg easily. A third night in Salzburg might be beneficial because the first day you are only there for half a day and the second and third days you are not in Salzburg at all during the day. Well, you're in Salzburg on the second day for a short time viewing the Sound of Music sites from a van and then the countryside and then on to Hallstatt and to Berchtesgaden on the third day. So, really you are only able to see the sites in Salzburg in the evenings when some attractions may be closed. Augustinerbrau is a "do not miss" if you enjoy relaxing under the chestnut trees having a beer brewed by the monks and eating a plate of shaved radishes and pretzels. The Hotel Stein rooftop is another place to check out after dark. You'll get a great view of the city at night. An evening dinner/concert in the fortress may be of some interest as well. I agree that your itinerary is active but realistic and doable.

Jen / Jerry and Diane,

Thanks for the information. Sounds like I am ok with my plan for Salzburg.

thanks,
David

Hi David,

It's just my opinion, but I would definitely suggest staying near Marienplatz, rather than out towards the train station. We prefer staying in the heart of things, and with your budget, this should be doable.

As for Dachau, it's open daily according to their website (I think older versions of Rick's Germany guide book stated that it was closed on Monday, but that doesn't appear to be true anymore).

I think your itinerary/days in Salzburg seems perfect.

You are going to have a great time!!

I forgot to add that we took the "Hitler's Munich" walk with Munich Walks (Levi was our guide) and highly recommend it!

Also, we liked walking through the Hofbrauhaus just to take in the atmosphere, but much preferred going to the Augustiner am Platzl which is right across the street. You'll be hanging with a lot more locals than tourists... and the beer is awesome!

Echoing Dawn from Denver's statement - Hofbrauhaus is great for a beer and to take in the iconic atmosphere for awhile, but I wouldn't recommend having lunch or dinner there. Mediocre, overpriced food. We had a lot of luck with two of the Augustinerbrau restaurants in Munich. I recall one on Neuhauserstrasse near Marienplatz and another, smaller version just a couple of blocks from the Hofbrauhaus.

If you like food markets, be sure to make some time to stroll through and enjoy a meal at the Viktualienmarkt. It's a fantastic outdoor market near Marienplatz.

If it's cold or rainy one day, I'd recommend spending an hour or so at Michaelskirche to soak in some great architecture and check out the Wittelsbach family crypt under the church. I think we paid about 2 or 3 Euro each to enter the crypt. Macabre, but interesting.

Thanks Dawn and Jen.

We had an excellent guide from Berlin Walks and then enjoyed a 1 hr cruise on the riveras RS suggests. Museum Island is amazing; only made it to 3 of the 5 museums but would recommend Pergamom and Neus/Egyptian. Kaiser Wilhelm Church, like Coventry Cathedral in England,has been rebuilt next to the remains of the original church---poignant reminder of the futility and human cost of war and with spectacular stained glass in shades of blue. The Olympic Stadium is easy to get to on the U-Bahn if you have an interest in it. U-Bahn #8 to Bernauer Strasse stop and then about 2 more blocks will take you to the open area where the Wall once ran and there's an outdoor display and maps.

Prague: We took a private day tour to Lidice and Terezin which were VERY moving and worth the price. The Cathedral Church of Sts Cyril & Basil has a small museum in the crypt where 7 of the paratroopers who assassinated Rheinhard Heydrich hid until they were betrayed and killed by the Nazis.On a cheerier note, go enjoy a pastry at the Art Deco Europa Hotel.

Vienna: would agree w/ another poster that the Hofburg and Schonbron are similar so w/ limited time, go to Schonbrun. We enjoyed the Belvedere because it's less ornate and less crowded; Klimt exhibit is fabulous.