German dumpling

Now that I saw the photo, identification is easy (and I already had guessed at it, based on the limited info provided).

You ate a Reiberknödel (sometimes spelled Räuberknödel, although it has nothing to do with robbers). This is a Bavarian/Austrian potato dumpling that is quite a trick to make. It consists of equal quantities of raw and mashed potatoes and the aim is to make it softball-size yet still fluffy. Getting the mix right to hold the mass together is a challenge. I can provide a recipe or two, but it will take some experimentation. The Kartoffelknödel mix found in German stores doesn't do it justice, but at least you can claim to have been able to approximate it. BTW, these side dishes are Knödel south of the German dialect border - which runs close to Frankfurt - and they are Klöße in the North. Just one of those many curiosities that will keep you reaching for the dictionary.

Rob, can you tell us the name of the restaurant where you had it?

The restaurant was called Fraggels. The dish was the Frankfurt Applewine Roast with bread dumplings and savoy cabbage. Although it was called a bread dumpling, it had more of a gelatin texture.

Rob, there are many varieties of dumplings in Austria-Germany. Here's a local favorite.

Guten Appétit! P

Tiroler Speckknödel

4 altbackene Semmeln, ca. ¼ l. Milch, 2 Eier, ca. 100 g geräucherte Wurst, 30 g Fett, ½ Ziebel, 80-100 g Mehl, Petersilie, Marjoran, Muskat, Salz.

Die Semmeln werden kleinwüfelig geschnitten, die Eier mit der Milch versprudelt, mit einem Schneebesen innig und gut verschlagen, über das geschnittene Brot gegossen und eine halbe Stunde stehen gelassen. Inzwischen werden der Speck und die Wurst fein geschnitten, mit der gehackten Zwiebel in Butter angeröstet und ebenfalls zu brot gegeben. Nun streut man reichlich feingehackte Petersilie und das Mehl darüber, würzt und drückt die Masse mit einem Kochlöffel gut zusammen. Die Knödel werden mit der nassen Hand oder einem Löffel gleich groß geformt (eigroß) und in Salzwasser ungefähr 10 Minuten gekocht.

translation follows
Tyrolean Bacon Dumplings

4 day-old Kaiser rolls, about 8 ½ oz. milk, 2 eggs, about ¼ pound of smoked sausage, a couple bacon slices, ½ onion, about ¼ pound of flour, Parsley, Oregano, Nutmeg, Salt.

Cut the Kaiser rolls into small pieces. Thoroughly combine the eggs with the milk using a whisk and pour it over the bread pieces, allowing the mixture to stand for half an hour. In the meantime, cut up the bacon and sausage finely and sauté all the meat with finely chopped onion before adding all to the bread/milk/egg mixture. Next, strew finely cut parsley and flour over the bread, etc. mixture, season and stir the mass together with a cooking spoon. With wet hands or with a spoon make dumplings a bit larger than an egg and cook all in salted water about 10 minutes.

(During cooking, using a large spoon, it may be necessary to un-stick some of the dumplings from the bottom of the pot. All will float when they are done).

Serves 4 people easily.

I'm glad you discovered the world of Central European dumplings - a far cry from what passes for it in American kitchens (only Chinese cuisine can match the inventiveness of these cooks).

Since you give us a size, that makes the selection of likely candidates easier - and Frankfurt has its own culinary specialties. Can you tell us if there was a filling? Texture like (semolina gritty, potato hash browns-like, smooth flour)? It may be a Hessian specialty because my extensive dumpling inventory needs a bit more info before I can pinpoint the dish.

Can Andreas help here?

We all LOVE dumplings in our family! Fortunately, you can find ready-made products in European/German delis. They are powders that only need to be mixed with water, formed into balls and then cooked in boiling water. Look for packages that say "Semmelknödel" or "Kartoffelknödel" or "Klösse halb und halb". Very easy to do that way, the true way is more risky (the dumplings often fall appart while cooking). We had them last night with a traditional Rhineland Sour Roast and Red Cabbage. Yummy!!!!!

They were not filled. They were yellow in color. Smooth like flour but not bread like at all. Like I said before, they were gelatin like.

Rob, I can't get Fräggels on the phone to ask but since the German translation on their menue calls them "Klöse" and not "Knödel" and given your explanation of their texture (gelatine like) I'm almost sure they were Kartoffelklöse (mashed potato dumplings). You add corn- or potato starch and salt to mashed potatoes, some boiling milk and one egg. Then you form dumplings from that dough and slowly boil them in water for 15 minutes.

It's hard to believe that they were potato. Below is a picture that was I saw on here before my trip. It looks like the same type dumpling.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Tom.Luann.Fitzpatrick/Germany_2006/photo#5072299064381271458

Mmmmm....German dumplings....

Rob, in that picture IS a potato dumpling (Kartoffelklos)! Believe me.

WOW, how interesting. Thanks for your help!

I googled it and found this description.

Old-fashioned comfort food, its springy, chewy consistency soaks up gravy and pan juices.

I wonder that gives it the "springy, chewy" texture?

My German mom makes them completely homemade sometimes, but she also often uses the Knorr brand mix. It's not perfect, but it is easier to do than starting from scratch. I love them with Sauerbraten.

I had the same thing in Frankfurt last month - I swear it was the size of a soccer ball. Definately potato. I had it with Sauerbraten. Kind of gelatin texture on the outside, but drier, smooth on the inside. I think I mangaged to eat a third of it!

I prefer Münchner Semmelknödel, myself.

I've been making these for years, using the straightforward recipe in the good ol' "Joy of Cooking". You'll find the recipe listed under kartoffelklosse. They're really not hard or time-consuming; you just have to be willing to get your hands a little sticky when you form the dumplings.

I can honestly say that this recipe held up pretty well against the genuine article over in Germany, at least when I went in 2004 and 2006.

Enjoy!

In case you want similar dumplings in the US... if you have access in any way to a military commissary, they almost always sell German dumpling mix, under the brand name of Dr. Willi Knoll.

not reading for other posts above - these are made with potato flower and therefore very glutinous (ie - gummy_ = but called different things in various parts of Germany (from Knoeddel to kloesse) they are popular. Being Swiss myself and not a stranger to the many many forms of potato dishes - I didnt like the baseballs sized ones that much either... but with a good sauce its fine! guess its more in the presentation - I thought it might be good as mashed potato!

This dumpling has staying power!
It also mirrors a lively controversy - at least in Bavaria and Austrian kitchens. A Reibeknödel (reiben = grate) to be considered authentic must be huge, fluffy, neither glutinous nor too dry, and definitely not made of a commercial mix. My recipe involves 2 lbs of raw potatoes, 1 lb of mashed, 4 cubed hard rolls, salt, and 1 cup of hot milk. No other filler or binder (such as egg). The grated potatoes have to be freshly prepared; otherwise, they turn gray and unappetizing. It's an accomplished cook that can make this largest of potato dumplings, and quite an achievement.
Sorry, Joy of Cooking? Oh, please!

Do we think that the one I had was a mix, since it was from a restaurant kitchen, not very expensive and really glutinous? I find it hard to believe that this particular dumpling started with raw grated potato. I understand how they are suppose to be made, and I concede that I probably didn't have one that you speak of making.

Martin, Try the recipe before you question its value. My German grandmother made hers quite similarly, so don't knock it till you try it! Good food doesn't have to be complicated.