We are planning to take our kids (ages 12 and 14) to London and Paris in July. Right now, the way our travel dates work out, we will possibly be in France over Bastille Day. I'm a bit apprehensive about this - afraid that many services will be closed over the holiday and that crowds will be even worse than normal. Should we try to get home before this date? Thanks for any advice.
I've had a blast on Bastille day a few times. Once I was in Tours and got sucked into the local parade and general late-night wingding, complete with firecrackers and lots of wine. In Paris a few summers ago we had a much lower-key night.... just watched the lights on the Eiffel Tower from Trocadero and then strolled back to our hotel. There seemed to be fireworks all over the place - from people on their balconies doing sparkler to larger, neighborhood displays. We've never been to the big dance party at Place de la Bastille the night before (of which I have heard tell, but seen no evidence) - we've also avoided the parade on the Champs Elysses. But we didn't notice any particular huge crazy associated madness, much. Yes - revelry! Yes - picnicking and celebratory stuff. No - ultra crowds and unpleasantness. Paris is super jammed all summer - I doubt you will notice the difference. As for things being closed, yes, I think lots of places were shut - but cafes and restaurants didn't seem to be affected, so that was good! I would vote for staying and enjoying the party.
I've been in Paris for a couple of them. I don't know about museums and such but everything else is open. The only noticeable crowds are along the Champs during the parade and probably the nearyby metro stations as it ends (you can tell the approaching finale by the sound of the planes which come at the tail end of the show). Find a down-river bridge (Invalides or west) and watch the fireworks.
There are street dances in front of the fire houses on the 13th, starting after dark. Your kids will love it.
We were there in 2009 and had a great day. A few things might be closed, but the city is certainly not shut down. Be warned that the morning parade - should you want to brave the crowds and see it - is not your typical "happy" American parade. It's all military and civil service - and every large diesel military vehicle in France, all moving more slowly than any parade you've ever seen before. You won't see a clown, float, or queen of anything anywhere. The fireworks behind the tower are quite the spectacle, however. If it were just you adults, and you were curmeddgeons, I would suggest you follow Ed's advice and find some relatively quiet empty space away from the Champ du Mars crowds. But for the sake of the children, try this; Late-afternoon find a monoprix (supermarket) and buy some picnic supplies including extra snacks and/or desserts. Take that with you to the Champ du Mars. Note that the entire grassy area in the middle will be people shoulder-to-shoulder there to sway to the pop/rock concert. Pick a spot in one of the clearings off to the side, where you can't see the stage, but you can see most of the tower. Plant yourself and enjoy your liesurely picnic. As the sky darkens, have dessert/snack. Then enjoy the fireworks. Also take note that the Metro stops near the tower may be blocked off due to concerns over security and over-crowding. We wound up walking along the Seine toward our apartment near Notre Dame at midnight. It was almost three miles, but to be quite honest, the temps were comfortable, the city was beautiful, the atmosphere was pleasant and that walk was one of the things we remember most fondly from our week in Paris... ...so much so, that we altered this year's trip to Italy so that it could end in Paris over Bastille Day again. Our children (similar ages to yours) are very excited!!
Thank you, all, for such fantastic advice. You've sold me!! It sounds like a lot of fun, so we'll arrange our visit so we remain there over the holiday. And what an experience for my kids - to say they were in France for Bastille Day.