We will be in Arles this September during the Rice Festival. Has anyone been in Arles during the festival and/or attended the bullfighting? I'm not finding much info about the event in english (http://www.arenes-arles.com/arles_info/v4/2008/riz08.htm), but from what I've been able to translate the bullfights are rather expensive. I'm wondering if it's worthwhile or if we should spend our time and money enjoying the extra street life that a festival brings to town. I'm not sure if we can see the inside of the arena unless we attend a bullfight? Thanks!! Kim
You can't see the inside of the arena unless you buy the ticket to the bullfight. It's an old (Roman) arena with the typical high sides all around.During the Rice Festival is when the Spanish toreadors come to Arles and do the Spanish style bullfighting (Hemingway's Death in the Afternoon) instead of the regular Provence style bullfighting (Provence style the bull is not killed). On the website, if the word corrida is used it denotes the Spanish style bullfighting. And so during Rice Festival you can eat toro meat in Arles restaurants, the butcher shop meat wagons are pulled up outside the arena waiting for each kill and you can eat it that night. On a lighter note, there's lots of street life that the festival brings to town.
Thanks Kent. Interesting...perhaps I'll save my money for the paella and enjoy the free streetlife!
We will also be in Arles during the Rice Festival and have purchased tickets for the concluding bullfight on Sunday. Seats are a bit pricey, but we figured "When in a Roman arena..." Individual tickets are now available on the arenes-arles website.
Good Day,
I live in Arles. You must not miss the Feria du Riz!
It really is a three-day blowout celebration throughout this most charming of towns. Normal population here is 52,000 but it swells greatly at this time (even more so for the Easter Feria) with holiday-makers, afficianados of food, drink, bullfighting, music and pleasure. Unless you are particularly squeamish, do NOT miss the bullfights; they are straight out of Hemmingway. The pagentry, color, celebration, tradition and history render them unforgettable! Bon Voyage...
John,
Thank you so much for your reply! Well, if you are a resident and say we must go, then we must go!! It sounds like a wonderful time to be in Arles. We are counting down the days!!
Kim
Hi --
I'll be there, too... and we're curious about the possibility of eating toro after the corridas. Are there particular restaurants that the butchers sell to? Is it necessary to reserve in advance, or can we just walk around town after the corrido and look for a restaurant offering toro?
Thanks for any advice!
Jon: I was in Arle a year ago during the festival and ate toro/tareau at a restaurant on Forum Square. I was curious about it: a different taste, richer. We didn't make a reservation in advance, just walked around and saw several restaurants with banners touting toro --banners because they only kill the bulls in the bullring when the Spanish bullfighters are in town--the rest of the year the Provencal bulls die of old age.
Hello,
Bull meat (tareau de boeuf) is available year round in Arles, and in most of Provence. Definitely, during the Feria (Easter) and the Feria du Riz you can find it at Le Tambourine at the Place du Forum, and in many of the local butchers. If you are staying at a hotel, you probably will not have cooking facilities. We, my wife and I, buy it at the Saturday marche also. It is not the same as normal beef, as it has a richer taste. We both love it, however, Pauline does not go to the bullfight.
Be sure to take the time to fully investigate the town of Arles, it is enchanting.
But don't tell a soul; it is a secret best kept to one's self. Who knows, maybe we'll see you at Cafe le Wilson on the Boulevard de Georges Clemenceau. You'll spot us reading the International Herald Tribune, or La Provence. Bon chance!
John
John, can tickets for the bullfight be purchased at the entrance or must I purchase them in advance? Do you have any recommendations for particular events? Thanks for much for giving us your insider info!! :) Kim
Hello Kim,
You should have no trouble buying tickets at the entrance, as long as they are not sold out, which would be unlikely. There will be quite a lot going on all weekend.
There will be parades, bands, paella etc... Arles is an ancient town with numerous historical sites, both medieval and Roman. Plenty of museums, old churches (St. Trophime) Bars, restaurants, and yes even shopping , but be careful, Sunday most shops are closed. Don't forget, it is quite acceptable to go to a local Patisserie (bakery) for something and bring it to a local cafe or tabac where you then purchase your coffee.
Regards,
John
Wow, thanks so much John!!! I didn't know that about the bakeries/coffee shops. That's really good to know. I'm thinking we may need to rearrange our schedule to spend some more time in Arles! Kim
Kim,
Did you ever find your way to Arles and the Feria du Riz? Just wondering if you enjoyed our little ville.
John
Hi John, yes we loved Arles. During the Festival was a great time to be there. The paella was wonderful! We did not end up going to a bull fight, but on Saturday night there was a free event with children riding their horses so we were able to see the inside of the arena. I'm so glad we were able to go inside...it's really spectacular. Thank you for your advice! We had a really wonderful dinner at a restaurant recommended by the owner of our hotel (Hotel Regence) called La Cigalien on Place Voltaire.
On a side note, when we returned I searched online to find some video of the bull fights to see what we missed. After seeing video of the corrida fights, I actually was glad I skipped out. For me, it was rather difficult to watch. If I understand correctly the traditional Provencal style bullfighting is not like this, and I think I would really enjoy watching it instead.
Thanks again,
Kim