Bernkastel-kues or Cochem?

I'm sorry if my reply adds to your indecision: But we liked Traben-Trarbach much more than Bernkastel-Kues. Although both are heavily touristed, T-T (as Rick calls it) is less crowded and more like a historic place where real people live. After following the public "vineyard walkway", we stumbled on a winery-cafe and had a "Rick Steves" moment alone on the terrace with the wind, the birds, and a (paid) wine tasting. We were also just able to climb the monument hill (paved, with steps) with a great view in all directions. Bernkastel has just too polished and commercial a "medieval center". And we resented the note (in German and English) at the Bernkastel winery of our choice's door which said (completely paraphrased by me) "If you don't have an appointment, please go downtown to these three stores ... ... for our wines. We have enough, high-end, business already." (FYI-note that we did buy a case of wine at the winery where our Mulheim hotel made a reservation for us. We do not drink for free and walk out empty-handed.)

I would more or less agree with Je. Bernkastel is ground zero for Riesling. However, it's a small town, suitable for a stopover of a few hours or an overnight, but not much more. For a longer stay, I would pick Cochem and visit neighboring towns, like Bernkastel-Kues, Zell, and/or Beilstein.

If you have a full day, you can easily see both. They're less than an hour's drive apart, and neither takes more than a few hours to see.

Hi Brendon, While we preferred Cochem, Bernkastel is a charming old town and closer for you. Bernkastel reminded me of Cochem on a smaller scale. Bernkastel and Cochem are about an hour apart, especially if you take the highway. Have you considered seeing Burg Eltz? It's near Cochem and probably the best castle to visit anywhere. Paul

Either one is a good choice. If you have more than 1 night, you might want to split it up.

Bernkastel-Kues is absolutely charming and I did not consider it to be highly polished at all. We also visited Trauben Traubach and while it is very nice and on a pretty part of the river, we didn't prefer it over B-K. We spent several hours in Echternach on this same trip and enjoyed it very much!!

Actually Je (if that's your real name ...), I rather liked Monschau, a far superior piece of medieval preservation, and the reason was the ... people ... who made me feel they were glad I came, instead of a sheep to be shorn. I had the same feeling about ?eský Krumlov, a really touristy place that I recommend to all. By the way, if you haven't given yourself a stroke yet, what exactly is the problem with a town in Germany being ... er ... Protestant? Did that pesky Luther destroy the country's heritage?

Tim, we are going to Monschau on our second day in Luxembourg. Looks gorgeous there.