Baden-Baden

Whether it is worth your time depends on how much time you have and what your interests are. Baden-Baden would be worth a trip if you really are into 19th century European spa culture, or are a Russian oligarch looking to take in the waters and shop for antiques at prices that would make lesser millionaires sweat. It is the German Vale, CO. There's so much to see in between Nuremberg and Luxembourg. What about the Rhine and Mosel Valleys? Trips by boat of the rivers are surprisingly cheap and a great way to see the scenery. Since you're driving you could take the boat a ways up and back and use the car to explore the more interesting towns you'll see along the way.

A little south of Baden Baden is Gengenbach. Its a lovely small town just off the autobahn near Offenberg. We enjoyed our stay at the Die Reichsstadt. If you want the baths in Baden Baden we have stayed at the Sofitel - very expensive 5 star plus, lovely breakfast (we got a deal), and the Holiday Inn Express - quite cheap, not too far out of things, decentish breakfast (we got a deal). Rather than following the road trip as in the book I'd selekt a couple of things to see and take whatever route is easiest. Coming from eastern Bavaria you'll have quite a lot of driving anyway, especially if you run into one of the famous (infamous?) A6 or A8 staus .

We stayed at a very nice small hotel in Baden-Baden, the Hotel Am Markt. It's right in the heart of things, you can walk to everything. Baden-Baden's well-known thermal baths provide a refreshing break in the middle of a driving trip. http://www.hotel-am-markt-baden.de/en/index.html

An alternative stopover is Heidelberg, which is almost exactly halfway between Nuremberg and Luxembourg. Rick Steves dislikes Heidelberg for some reason and doesn't include it in his books. A lot of other people/guidebooks proclaim it one of the jewels of Germany. Heidelberg is ten minutes off your autobahn route vs. an hour for Baden-Baden. The Hotel am Markt in B.-B. is a great little place. One of Rick's picks I believe. I enjoyed some classy gambling in the Versailles-like casino, and did the Friedrichsbad baths. Check these out in a guidebook to see if they are something you'd want to do.

I personally wouldn't do Baden-Baden unless you're super into the spa thing (and even then, spas abound in Southern Germany). It's well out of the way, and there are a number of interesting places to stay not far out of your way. Heidelberg wouldn't be a bad choice at all. There are also a lot of really quaint towns just south of Frankfurt starting past Darmstadt that would be a nie stop. Baden-Baden is out of your way, significantly. I wouldn't bother.

I'll second the Hotel Am Makt. And definitely do the Roman-Irish bath or Friedricksbad. Yes, it's naked. Yes, it's European. Yes, you'll come out feeling more relaxed and clean than you ever have been in your life.

If you really want the German bath experience, I would suggest Bad Kissingen over Baden-Baden. It's much closer to Nürnberg, and in my opinion, a much nicer and more relaxing town. I just don't get Baden-Baden. One of the least attractive of Germany's many spa towns, and too many shops selling bling to Vladimir Putin's crowd.

I'd agree with the others. Near the end of my trip a few years ago we stayed in Baden-Baden for a couple of nights and it was probably my least favorite place. Not a bad place but just nothing special. Heidelburg would be much preferred by me.

I actually found the Russian connection kind of interesting. I was walking by the beautiful little Russian church on a Sunday morning and peeked in- it was absolutely packed with Russians, including a soldier in battle dress uniform. Security detail for an oligarch I guess?

Thanks again, A good point. But I think we are choosing Heidelberg. Jennie