4) Rue Cler area in general - loved it...there were quite a few tourists but the area was very homey and it was nice to come back after a long day walking and have convenient, not crazy expensive places to eat. I would agree with anyone who says that if you really really want to get away from tourists, stay elsewhere, but it really worked for us. Had a nice chat with the man in the cheese shop (not the Fromagerie, think it was called Fermette or something) about how my French accent (Quebecois I'm told, and is logical) is the same as what the French had several hundred years ago...made me laugh...and the Religieuses (as far as I can tell, just a round eclair with a smaller one stuck on top with icing) from the bakery were amazing
5) I will admit frustration though with very abrupt 'Non' when asking people if they spoke English (for hubby's benefit, I speak French)...and not random people in the street, people at information desks and the security guard at the Eurostar line at Gare du Nord which was full of travellers who didn't speak French(that guy had a bit of attitude--we got a dirty look and a 'Non, je parle FRANCAIS)...but in general, people were helpful and willing to speak a little slower than I asked and seemed appreciative of any effort to speak French--often, I would ask a question in French and the waiter/cashier etc would answer in English to make things easier on me.
Overall, a wonderful trip!!!