Three days in Edinburgh

WOW, Edinburgh, how lucky you are, it is great. Of course the castle, be there at 1PM for shooting off of the cannon. We thought Mary King's Close just down from the castle on the left as you leave the castle was the best thing we saw, look up info on the internet. We also liked the churchyard where we could see Grey Friar's Bobby, also look that up. We were not too impressed with Holyrood but that is our opinion. Definitely take her to see the Royal Yacht down in the harbor. I seem to remember taking a bus from St. Andrew's Square that leaves you right at the mall where the yacht is docked. I seem to remember that is the only place where you can actually see the bedroom of a royal person and of course that is the yacht Di and Charles took on their honeymoon. Edinburgh is wonderful, I think I read someplace that it is the Athens of Europe. Good for the two of you. Oh, also see the museum and St Giles. Everything is so close and it is certainly a walkable city.

My daughter and I stayed at Elderfields Guest house and thought it was just lovely, plus the price was good too. We were there in May and paid 64 GBP per night for the twin room. The hostess, Maureen was warm, friendly and helpful and the house is so nicely decorated. Our room looked out on Arthurs Seat, and the street pretty much walked past Holyrood Castle and the Scottish Parliament, turning into the Royal Mile in about a 10 min. walk. We loved the free museums and went in all of them, went on an Underground Vault tour with Mercat Tours which we found fascinating and fun, visited St. Giles, wandered around the castle area, but didn't go inside as neither one of us had a huge desire to do this. One day, we took the bus to Portobello, which was great, but don't know if you would want to do this in Nov. Daughter and I both loved all the 2nd hand stores. We walked all over the place, Princess Gardens, the Royal Mile and all the side streets off of it. Took the Sandemanns Free tour and absolutely hated it, wish we would have gone on one of the other walking tours there. Next time we go, one of the Literary tours is on our list of things to do, as well as a Ghost tour. Had fabulous curries at Mother India. http://www.guest-houses-edinburgh.com/index.php

Edinburgh is a lovely city, and I'm sure you will enjoy it. In addition to the castle, we have enjoyed the Whisky Experience. You "ride" through the history of Scotch Whisky (and really a bit of Scottish history itself)and at the end those who are old enough get to sample a wee dram! the Bank of Scotland has a nice museum/exhibit on currency/coinage and banking. Princes St. gardens are nice any time of year. You could also do a bus tour of the highlands (just to get a taste)- though in Nov. you might not have enough daylight to get the best experience. We have stayed at the Royal British hotel. It is across Princes St. from Waverly train station. Just a suggesstion- consider looking into flying up and taking the train back to London. It will save you some transit time as you will already be at the airport. The train trip is about 5 hours long and you will have already had a plane ride of about 8 hours- that's ALOT of seat time. It might also be cheaper if you find the right airling!

With three days in Edinburgh, you will have time to take a day tour out into the Scots countryside (maybe Culloden) . I think there is enough time to hit the Edinburgh highlights in two days. Thats a long way to go without seeing the countryside

The Museum of Scotland is a really good museum. Check it's hours, but it might be a good thing to do later in the day as the light fades. If you or your daughter are interested in geology or science, The Dynamic Earth is interesting. Parts of it is the same stuff that you find in US such as Chicago's Field Museum, but then there are the parts that are specific to the development of Scotland's countryside. At that time of year, it might be a better way to get a feel for the glens. If you want to get out of Edinburgh for a day, I have a few suggestions. First, you might go to Stirling. The castle there is so impressive and plays a huge role in Scottish history, and Historic Scotland just completed a restoration of the Renaissance Palace. Another suggestion would be to go to Glasgow for the day. There is a new museum on transportation and maritime history in Scotland. This sounds very specialized until you start thinking about the role Scotland has played in ship building, the industrial revolution and transportation. A third idea would be to sign for a tour through the TI of the Border Abbeys which would likely include Roslyn Chapel. Just always remember that the actual daylight time at that time of year is short. http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/astronomy.html?n=304 Pam

Besides the Royal Mile and museums We have njoyed a bus ride to the Royal Botanic Garden which is one of the finest and well known in the world. If you have any interest at all in plants you shouldn't miss this. The Tourist Information office can direct you to the correct bus stance which is several blocks away. The office is in the small plaza above the train (Waverley Station) station. If you have time to prepare yourself bibliographically for the trip try reading some of Alexander McSall Smith's Scotland Street series or Ian Rankin's John Rebus series. Their descriptions of parts of Edinburgh are wonderfully grasping.

On past trips we've stayed at Stuart House, 12 East Claremont Street, and Broughton Guest House, 37 Broughton Place (www.broughton-hotel.com). They are about a 15–20 minute walk to the Royal Mile. The Broughton is a couple of minutes closer to the Royal Mile, has a nice neighborhood pub one block away, and across the street from the pub is an excellent restaurant called the Olive Branch. Both places were nice, breakfasts very tasty, and the owners were accommodating. This fall we're staying at Fraser Suites, 1 block off the Royal Mile and within walking distance of the train station. A friend just returned from staying there and said it was very comfortable, convenient, with polite and caring staff. On our last trip we did what your planning - we arrived at Heathrow, and using BritRail FlexPasses we caught the Heathrow Express to Paddington, took a cab to Kings Cross (didn't want to deal with all the steps in tube stations with luggage), and caught a train to Edinburgh. It might seem like alot of travel time after the plane trip; but the 5 hour train ride (in 1st Class) was so comfortable and relaxing, it was a real pleasure to sit and enjoy the scenery. Of course a light lunch and tea on board didn't hurt either. We spent 5 days in Edinburgh, took the train to Leeds for 2 days, then back to London for a few more days before returning to the US. With 3 days in Edinburgh, I would recommend seeing Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, St. Giles Cathedral, any of the free museums that interest you, and just walk the Royal Mile and soak up the city. I would also take a day-trip tour into the Highlands, but in November some routes into the Highlands may need to be altered due to snow. PM me if you would like any suggestions on places to eat, etc. We can't wait to get back - great whisky and haggis for my husband, scones and pasties for me, beautiful scenery and the friendliest people ever.

We enjoyed having tea on the Royal Britannia. Rosslin Chapel is easily reached by bus. Have a great trip!

I forgot to mention some suggestions on places to stay. I've tended to stay off the Royal Mile, but that mostly because I tend to be in Edinburgh during the summer when the crowds are at their largest and staying a bit away has been pleasant. I've stayed at the Inverleith Hotel which is near the Botanic Gardens. (BTW you can visit these in winter as they have some impressive glass houses.) It's a small family run hotel and it's an easy bus ride up Princes Street or the Royal Mile and easy walk back down the hill to the hotel later in the day. Most recently I stayed at The Walton, which is a little further up the hill and so closer to Princes Street. It was a nice B&B / Guest house. I also stayed in the Dalkeith area and thought it was fine as well. To be honest, there are lots of good areas in Edinburgh. It's a small city / town and not hard to get around in. Well, there is the tram issue.... http://www.scotsman.com/news/All-systems-go-as-city.6794691.jp Pam

kSpelling error in my previous post. It should be Alexander McCall Smith. You knew that though.

You've got some great Edinburgh recommendations in this thread. When you firm up dates, buy the train tickets on line to save money. Heathrow Connect is, I think, 18 pounds to Paddington. About triple the Tube's cost but, I think, well worth in terms of time and comfort. Allot an hour, more or less, and about 20 pounds for the cab to King's Cross. When you get there, check out the place so you know where your gate when it is announced. Your Edinburgh train may be listed as "Inverness" on the big board. FYI: Places to sit are very hard to come by at King's Cross. On your return, York is a great place to spend a day and a night, if so inclined. Finally, it will be cold and windy. Bundle up. You'll be outside a lot. And note it will be dark around 6pm. Plan accordingly.

So glad I read this post as I had forgotten all about the gardens, they are great but not sure about November although I do remember a lovely hot house and a memorial garden to the Queen Mum. It is a lot of walking but that is just because I had just broken 2 toes just before the trip so had to hobble along. Luckily my son was able to literally drag me around.

It may be too late but I've not found flights to Edinburgh from the US to be any more expensive than directly into London. You might want to consider "open jaws" to save the time and hassle of the London to Edinburgh train.

Regarding a cab from Paddington to Kings Cross - unless traffic is really heavy, it takes about 15 minutes and costs about £12.

We just got back from Edinburgh. We stayed at the Fraser Suites right off the Royal Mile near the Castle. It was probably our favorite hotel from the whole trip. A little on the pricey side at about $150/night, but you can't beat the location. Definitely tour the Castle. We did the Scottish Showtime at Prestonfield House. I thought it was a little cheesy and overpriced, but a teenager might enjoy it. http://edinburgh.frasershospitality.com/

I thought three days would be sufficient to see most of what we wanted to see and I'd say we came up about 40% short. Edinburgh is an amazing city, full of great sites, so choose what interests you most. One thing I was not prepared for was just how much time it took to get from one place to the next. It is a big and hilly city! Even though we saw sites in logical sequences we still didn't give ourselves enough time. (This was made worse by the fact that we spent FOUR HOURS at the Castle. Highly recommended.) Personally, I would recommend Holyrood and the Queen's Gallery, the Scottish Parliament, Gladstone's Land, and The People's Story museum. Okay sites include the Museum of Childhood and the interesting Bank of Scotland museum. Disappointing were the Writers' Museum and the (in my opinion) terrible John Knox House. I highly recommend the Literary Pub Tour in the evening as a better alternative to the small and uninspired Writers' Museum if the subject interests you.

@April, how did you pay only $150/night for the Fraser Suites? The web site lists £295 ($473 at today's exchange rate) for the "cheapest" room's rack rate. I think I know that rack rate is what few pay when they book through different ways, so I wonder how you booked the hotel? Thanks.

@Matt, I spent 5 hours at the Castle, lol. It probably all depends on what catches one's eye and interest. I went through all the military buildings, because they're there, not for a particular reason, so it was a grand discovery to see a historical painting of a battle scene I saw in one of the Sharpe movies. Serendipitous findings are just fun. I ditto the recommendation for the People's Story. I love the room way at the top of the tower .. great ambiance. Almost right across from the People's Story is the Museum of Edinburgh. Fans of Greyfriars Bobby will want to pop in for the display (photos, his dog dish, etc.). I mention it specifically because I almost missed it in the back of the room on the (considered in US) second floor. JH, trains go to Edinburgh from Kings Cross, but also from Euston on the Virgin trains. If you were to use first class (by early purchase or rail pass), I tried a first class rail pass on a trip and the Virgin train was The nicest one of the different lines! Or perhaps go up one way and down the other. Somewhere .. I remember a posting comparing the two routes. Cheers.

Betsey, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but my husband and I are booked into a Classic Deluxe Room at Fraser Suites for £123.50 a night with full breakfast in September. I looked at various hotel booking sites, then emailed Fraser Suites directly and asked for the best available rate with a full breakfast instead of just a Continental one (then we can skip lunch or just grab a snack). With the current exchange rate I know it's more than the $150 a night April said she paid, but it's still a far cry from their "rack rate."

Of course you can spend more than three days in Edinburgh. I've been going back to the city over and over for over ten trips to Scotland and I've visited Edinburgh nearly every visit. Yes, it's hilly, but as for distance, things are lot closer together than, say, London or New York! I think what you run into is that sites are a bit too close to catch a bus, but always take longer than you think. I am sure I spent at least 4 hours at the Castle the first time. Then there are the times that I've been back! I agree to that Holyrood Palace and the Queen's Gallery are worth a visit. The exhibits in the gallery change or at least some of them do, so you revisit! I too really enjoyed touring Holyrood. Seeing where this new government body meets is fascinating. And the Museum of Scotland is wonderful Additional sites that I like are the National Gallery, the Dean's Gallery and the Scottish Gallery of Modern Art. And I always enjoy visiting the Georgian House on Charlotte's Square. And, just outside of town is Linlithgow Palace and Hopetoun House. Here's what's still on my list: The Zoo, day trip to Incholm Abbey, Bass Rock, Crichton Castle, and I'm sure I'll find more places and things to explore. One more thing, I need to climb Arthur's Seat. Pam

Betsey & Mary -
I just booked directly on the hotel's website. I don't know - I guess I got lucky?? LOL. It was 150GB (sorry, not dollars) and that did not include breakfast, but it was for the Quaich Suite, so I guess I got a good deal. It was probably the nicest room we stayed at on the whole trip. We really liked it.

Thanks, April and Mary, for the information you give. For 150, in pounds it does make some more sense than dollars. The pictures on the hotel's web site are great. I could see it as a splurge on a trip, yes.

I stayed at 23 Mayfield in Edinburgh (one of Rick steves' recommendations) and it was absolutely lovely. They're a short bus ride from the train station and center of town, but the ride was easy even with luggage. And they serve the best breakfasts which are included with the price of your room.

I don't know if you are trying to travel economically or not but I've been looking into going from London to Edinburgh (and back) and I found the train costs were quite high (even 12 weeks out) but plane fare was very cheap. Just about $109 with fees. I love seeing the countryside by train, but I plan to fly when I go next spring.