Seeing Ireland for the first time

My first piece of advice would be to look at your driving distances on www.viamichelin.com. Kinsale would be a very long drive in one day, and you'd miss everything on the southeast (Glendalough, Waterford, Cork/Blarney, Kilkenny, Cashel, etc). If you really want to just see the south and west, fly into and out of Shannon. Flying into Dublin and then skipping everything on that side of the country doesn't really make sense.

Hi Nancy,

Thanks for the advise. Where would you suggest we spend a night along the route to break up the trip to get the most out of the southeast?

Marcia

Marcia,

There are so MANY interesting places to see in Ireland, I'd strongly recommend making the trip 10 days or perhaps even two weeks if possible. All of the cities you listed are good stops. A few comments.....

> Dublin - you might want to allow at least 3 days (preferably four), considering you'll lose the first day in flight times and time zone changes. Also, with jet lag and so on, you won't be up to proper touring speed for a day or two after that. I'd suggest taking a Taxi from the airport into the city (there are LOTS of Taxis! You'll see the queue when you exit the terminal). Allow a bit of time for clearing passport control, collecting luggage etc.

Kinsale - I found this a very interesting city, with lots of history. You might consider taking one of the walking tours with local guides. Of course, a visit to the Charles Fort is essential (you can walk out & back if the weather is good). There are some good restaurants there also.

Dingle - one of my favourite places! A great place for local music, interesting pubs and lots of Irish character. Can't recall the drinking age in Ireland, but your teenagers might be able to enjoy a pint also (if Mom allows!).

Galway - another town with lots of history (I believe JFK visited there - as I recall there's a statue in one of the parks?). Of course, if you have time a day trip to the Aran Islands would be great. When you arrive, you'll have the option of touring by bike, by pony cart or by minivan. Also, I believe Kilronan is the home of the largest sweater shop in Europe. If you hike up to Dun Aengus, be careful as there are no railings at the edge of the fort!

Lots of other interesting sites you could visit along the way - Powerscourt Gardens, Rock of Cashel, Killarney Lakes Park & Muckross House, Cliffs of Moher, the Burren. There are interesting places in the north also, but doubt you'll have time for that.

continued in part 2.....

Marcia - part 2...

As far as suggestions for budget hotels or B&B's, check Rick's Ireland book, as there are lots of choices there in various price ranges.

If you had two weeks to spare and a large budget, I'd definitely recommend the RS 14-day Ireland tour. It's a much more interesting and rewarding experience to have an excellent Guide explaining the significance of various historical sites (Rick's Guides are outstanding!!!). You'll also visit sites that are somewhat "off the beaten path" such as the location where Michael Collins was assassinated (an important part of 20th century Irish history).

One word of caution though. Driving in Ireland can be "challenging" at the best of times. Most of the roads are narrow and some are not well marked (or only have signs in Gaelic, with the English part spray painted with black paint). I'd highly recommend both a GPS and a good Map (I normally use Michelin maps). Also, since this is your "first trip abroad", you'll want to do give some thought to driving on the "correct" side of the road. I'd suggest budgeting for the extra cost of an automatic transmission and also the full CDW offered (I've seen one report that lists Ireland as the second most dangerous place to drive in Europe, behind Greece)! It would be a good idea to "brush up" on the protocol for roundabouts.

It's great that you're able to take a trip with your teenagers. That's one thing I regret not being able to do when my sons were that age.

Good luck with your planning!

For a week (7 full days, not including flights to and from Ireland) I would limit it to just Dublin, Dingle and Galway. For ten full days, I would add a day trip to Belfast (from Dublin) and extend my stays in Dingle and Galway.

You're not going to see everything, nor should you try

GREAT place to take your teenagers. Ireland is not that big of a country. You can get from the East (Dublin) to West (Shannon) in about 4 hours. I drove the country N. Ireland and Ireland easily. don't miss: The Book of Kells and the Long room at Trinity College, watching the locals enjoy St. Stephens Green in Dublin,
enjoying traditional music is a pub somewhere, seeing a local rugby or soccer match, Newgrange, (try to take the first tour of the day) Giant's Causeway, Kinsale and Glendalough. Make that you're first destination when you leave Dublin. Go via the Sally Gap. Absolutely beautiful country and people.

Marcia,

My wife and I took a similar trip in May. We started in Dublin, then rented a car and drove throughout the country.

Another place you can break up the Dublin to Kinsale drive is in Cashel. If you're into old religious historical sites, the Rock of Cashel is probably the best one in Ireland.

Here's our itinerary:

Night 1: Dublin. Remember that you'll lose a 1/2 day at the least flying over.

Nights 2-4: Dublin. We stayed in Dun Laoghaire, which is a beautiful suburb south of the city.

Night 5: Waterford. Sites: Waterford Crystal, Dunbrody Famine Ship.

Nights 6-7: Kinsale. Sites: Jameson whiskey tour (Midleton), Rock of Cashel, Cobh.

Night 8: Kenmare. Stopover before driving Ring of Kerry the next day. Sites: Killarney National Park, Muckross House, Muckross Traditional Farms, Ring of Kerry.

Night 9-10: Dingle. Sites: Slea Head Peninsula Drive, trad music and old school pubs.

Night 11: Kilrush. Stopover on way to Galway. Sites: Kerry County museum in Tralee.

Nights 12-13: Galway. Sites: Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, Aran Islands.

Night 14: Fly home. We drove back to Dublin and flew from there, as it was cheaper that way. But if you can swing it, it is definitely easier and more relaxing to fly home from Shannon.

Don't underestimate driving times!

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Enjoy your trip!

I would suggest Cashel or Waterford as a stop on the way to Kinsale. That way you could see Glendalough and the Wicklow Mountains on the way. Take a good look at the map and see what is close to what, and check your driving distances, as I advised earlier. Your destinations are good ones, you just need to break up the drive on the first day out of Dublin.

Have you considered traveling the other direction instead, landing in Shannon and making your way around to Dublin? You might think about this, since you haven't driven on the left before. Shannon airport is out in the country, on very sparsely trafficked roads. It's an excellent place to practice your skills before encountering other cars. Bunratty Castle is nearby (about six miles), and makes a nice place to stop and get your bearings. Picking up a rental in Dublin is a different matter. Even if you pick it up at a location other than the airport, you're still in a large city, driving on the "wrong" side. It can be stressful.

Marcia, my first suggestion is to buy Rick's Best of Ireland book and read it carefully. A lot of your questions will be answered and Rick includes driving routes, where to stay, what to see. The people who regularly respond on this board can help you fill in the details although Rick's books are detailed for the new traveler.

Since this is your first trip abroad, have you considered a tour?

Secondly, I would suggest getting some good maps. You might oreder RS map but I highly recommend Streetwise maps. They have a packet that includes the city of Dublin and Ireland.

You have lots of planning and that is half the fun! I'm going to Ireland next September so I will be planning too.

Marcia, Marcia, Marcia... sorry... I couldn't resist! After I had already organized a two week trip to Ireland for 8 ladies for the summer of 2006, I got a phone call from a friend of mine wanting to know if I would be a guide in Ireland sometime in the summer of 2006. It took a total of one day to say, "yes." My friend Tim like you wanted to take his two teenage daughters (16 and 18) to Ireland; as a graduation gift for the 18 yr old (this summer they went to Germany for the youngers graduation gift).

Tim could only come to Ireland for one week and a day. I had already planned 2 wks in Ireland like I said before for 8 ladies (including myself) and added another week to my trip. I had Tim leave the States on a Friday and arrive in Ireland on a Sat (5:30am at Shannon) and 6 of the 8 ladies were to head back to the States on Sunday.

I suggested that Tim get the Rick Steves Ireland book, gave him a few other suggestions for reading on Ireland and some websites. We then met in March 2006 for a planning session. I asked what were the three most important things that they wanted to see in Ireland? #1. Waterfall (great - torc falls) #2. Castle (great - bunratty) #3. clifs (great - clifs of moher). Since they were only able to be in Ireland for one week I was REAL about the driving and wanting them to enjoy Ireland and not feel rushed and overwhelmed. The #4 thing was the girls wanted to get a hook up to the newest fashions before they hit the States (great - Galway & Cork).

Due to family event the first night they were in we were in Cashel for their first night.

Day one: Bunratty, Cashel & entertainment at Bru Boru Ctr,Cashel. B&B: Joy's Rockside House.
Day two: After dropping the 6 ladies heading back to the states off at Shannon and exchanging rental vehicles we headed off to Salthill/Galway. Aeroplane show didn't know it was going to be on, but what the hay! We toured Galway City Centre. Stayed in B&B in Salthill that had its own car park.

Continued:
Day three: Shopping in Galway City. Take girls to shops and they get awesome finds! Then off to Clifden in Connemara via the Coast Road and get lost! ha! Get directions from TG4 Radio station(all irish station) and get to Clifden. Have dinner and then sit in on session in Pub
Day four: Kylemore Abby, Crough Patrick and head back thru Galway to Co Clare. Alliwee Caves, Dolman and then to B&B in Doolin. It is about 9pm daylight is still shining and while I was debating wether to back track up the coast road to a beach called FANORE in the morning on our way south to Kerry the owner of B&B suggest that I take my group that evening to the Cliffs, which we were going to do in the morning and instead go to Fanore in the morning. We went to the Cliffs that evening and had a good time. Then went to dinner at pub in Doolin and again listent to another irish session at the pub.
Day Five: Get up head to Fanore which is north of Doolin (about 12 miles) and take my friends to the public beach that I came across the week before when I was staying in a thatched cottage for a week. It is an amazing beach. The tide was out and there were pools of water on the beach with REAL sealife. I am embarrased to say that I could not identify have of the creatures in the pools... To this day if you ask the two girls their favorite time in Ireland they will tell you it was the 2 hrs we spent exploring this beach and rocks. We made it to Killarney via the Kilmer-Tarbert ferry.
Day Six: Muckross House & Grounds; Torc Waterfall; which I feel is the most beautiful waterfall in all of Ireland (but then I am partial)off to Cork/Blarney.
Day Seven: Blarney Castle and shops then on to Tipperary for our last night where we stayed w/my first cousin. My friends were nice enough to go down to the pub so my first cousin and I could spend a few hours catching up and family gossip! I agree w/other poster you should try for 14 days. That will give you the time in Dublin

that will give you the time in Dublin and to make your way south and to Kinsale, Dingle and Galway

My suggestion is first to do your research and see what are the main things you want to see or do. I think w/teenagers 2 days in Dubs(Dublin) is more than enough. You are right on target about not getting rental until you need it.

However, due to an expierence I had I would suggest you pick up your rental vehicle at dublin Aerport. They have shuttle's that can pick you up in town and take you to the Aerport.

If you fly into Dublin try to fly out of Shannon. If you fly into Shannon try to fly out of Dublin.

If you have any questions or need off beaten track info etc.. just sent me a post!

Slan go foill (until we meet again)

Oh yeah, wherever you have booked a B&B ask if they have a 'car park' which is parking lot off the street. You want them to have a car park for saftey reasons. You don't want to park on the street overnight. Just trust me on this.

when booking rental car and since it is your first trip please get automatic, again, trust me on this. You will have enough to concentrate on than trying to shift with your left hand. If you book automatic and when you go to pick up your car if they try to pawn off a manuel transmission stand your ground even if they have to upgrade you at no cost to you.
I usually book my rental w/hertz thru Aer Lingus. I have used Irish Car Carriers before, but prefer to deal w/American Carriers.

I do not suggest a Ford Festiva; as it is a hatchback which one can see any luggage. Get a vehicle w/a trunk, again trust me on this. Never leave anything of value in your parked car. It is a reality that the criminal element in Ireland is just like anywhere else in the world. You still have to e smart. A very wise old Irish farmer told me out at the Dolman in Clare "They will steal the eye out of your head if they could."

OMG!
Thanks so much to everyone for such excellent advise!
I have already poured through Rick's Ireland guide book and had wanted to take the tour, but funds won't allow it just now. I'd rather go now than wait another year as I have no idea where my son will be attending college and if he'll have a job, etc.
I have many of the sights you all mentioned on my list and have now added a few more. Especially the waterfall and shopping (the 16 year-old is a girl.)
I'm also pleased to hear that Dun Laoghaire is lovely as that is one place I'd planned on staying if accommodations in the city are too expensive, as well as picking up a car there.
If anyone has suggestions for lodging (small hotels or b&b's) that would be appreciated, too.
Again, a thousand thank yous to all.

Marcia, Marcia, Marcia ;)

I think I will pop for the automatic transmission. I'm comfortable with a manual transmission, but I've only driven on the left the couple times I've been to Bermuda. I also read about signs that you can post in your window that says "Student" or something similar to alert everyone that you might do something stupid at any moment. Possibly another good use of money.
Thanks again,
Marcia

You might want to be cautious about posting an official "L" sticker (learner driver) in your window. Learner drivers have to follow some very specific rules and limitations, and you wouldn't want to run afoul of one of those without knowing it. The learner driver designation is like our learner's permits here.

On the other hand, I have many times seen rental cars in Florida with hand lettered signs in the window which read "British driver". :)

I'm leaving for Ireland in the morning but I'm leaving my teens at home! This is mom's solo trip to see friends and family!

However, are your teens musical? They might like Doolin, in Co. Clare, or some of the Comhaltas Ceoltoiri Eireann (CCE) events. They're all throughout Ireland, in about every county. Take in some of the festivals, although rooms might be hard to get.

Newgrange in Co. Meath is a must, at least once. Kinsale is a lovely, lovely area.

I agree about starting the driving at Shannon...much easier to acclimate to driving there. We also found it was much easier driving East to West, West to East, than south to north. We drove Cork to Trim in a very long day. I think we were stuck in every construction-at-the-crossroads possible that summer.

I'd meander on a horizontal route as much as possible.

Why drive at all? http://www.buseireann.ie/ Bus Eireann will get you everywhere you want to go and once you get to Dublin, Galway, Cork or Sligo you can join their day tours. I did my first Ireland trip this way.

A couple of weeks ago I drove my sisters down the east coast from Dublin towards Cork and around the Ring of Beara and out of Cork. Automatic is definitely the way to go if you are trying to orientate yourself to the left side, so is a sat nav and a good map reader... minimum a good map reader!

A car is handy but the bus really is convenient and likely to save you money.

One of my sisters is 19, I almost wished we took public transit exclusively just so she could experience that part of the travel planning and not take for granted that every one around the world drives.

Oh, more great ideas!

Nancy- thanks for the warning. I didn't realize that there were other rules to go by with the sign. I'll avoid that.

Alyson- Lucky you! Yes, Newgrange is on my list now. I am beginning to believe that maybe flying into Shannon and out of Dublin might be the best way to go. Thanks!

Jenufa- I thought quite a bit about using trains and buses but I really don't want to be hemmed in by someone else's schedule. I mean, what if we get to a place and the kids or myself hate it and want to leave early, or love it and want to stay longer? I think I'll brave getting a car for that luxury, but still a good option for many.

Thanks again!!
Marcia

Get yourself to Dingle, and go on the archeological tour Rick Steves has in his guidebook (Skruid or something?). Anyway, it's really interesting.

Kinsale is also a lovely town with a nice walk along the beach to a fort.

One thing I did, when I drove in Ireland, was try to find a "Learners" sign...but they cost too much. You could always make one up if you wanted... : - ).

I also folded in my side mirrors. you have to use your rear view more, and pay more attention, but I had a bus come 1 inch from me, and the mirror would have popped off. But folded in, no problem.

It's not that bad driving. Just be aware folks can drive faster than seems safe on small roads with blind curves. Don't be in a hurry, drive safely, and you'll do GREAT

We bought a package of L stickers (as a souvenir, not to use) at a gas station for about $2, as I recall, but again, I'd be cautious about using those.

Practice driving on on a not so busy street before heading out to sightsee...it can be very stressful to drive on the left while trying to enjoy the views.......

Dingletown is a lovely place...

we fell in love with IRELAND..........

Marcia,

I think your plans sound fine. 10 days is enough time and I wouldn't suggest more than 2 full days in Dublin. The cross country drive is about 4 hours and really isn't problematic - the drive from Kinsale to Dingle will probably be more stressfull. I also wouldn't suggest visiting the Wicklow Mountains. I found them to be pretty boring - especially when compared to the natural wonders of the west coast. Rick's hotel/B&B recs have served me well in Ireland, so I can't really improve on what he's provided. Doolin is a fun place and good stop between Dingle and Galway - worth considering, in my opinion - especially since the drive from Dingle to the Cliffs of Moehr (if you choose to go there) was the most stressfull drive of the trip (narrow roads, tons of tour buses, etc.).

Thanks, Matt. I was considering the Wicklow Mountains so I'm glad you posted this. Definitely going to the Cliffs! Hope the weather cooperates as we want to see the Aran Islands, too. I understand that may not happen if the sea is too rough. Also thanks for the heads up about the Kinsale to Dingle and Dingle to Galway roads. I'll take my time and be careful, and maybe get more insurance for the car!
I've got the itinerary now, all that's left is the lodging. Does anyone have somewhere inexpensive in Dublin that they liked?

Marcia

I've stayed here on business trips and its great. Ballsbridge is a wonderful neighborhood, though a 15 minute walk (south) of Temple Bar. This place is not in Rick Steves.

http://www.pembroketownhouse.ie/

Marcia you have gotten some great tips here. My family had a great time this past June in Ireland. My kids aged 17 and 20 loved it. Some things I suggest are; Buy a money belt -- or three and wear them -- including passports. Not that it is unsafe in Ireland --just that it will give you peace of mind to always know where yo important stuff is.

Buy an Ordinance Survey Atlas of Ireland. Get it now and it will help in the planning of your trip. I still look at it frequently!

Encourage your kids to be navigators and reminders of driving on the left. They will love being part of the teamwork needed in getting you from place to place. It will add to the adventure. The Ordinance Survey Atlas is fantastic -- tho less so in towns. Be sure to grab tourism brochures in each town that have a local town maps. This helped us not get lost in places like Killarney and Galway.

We didn't go to Dublin -- But did go to the other places you mentioned. I would be happy to send you more stuff if you want, just PM me.

Hi Marcia!
I just got home from 15 days in Ireland last night. The L signs that go in the cars will not allow you to drive on some of the highways, so not a good idea. If you feel uncomfortable as you driving, and a line is forming behind you, there is usually a spot that you can pull over and let others by. It doesn't take long to get comfortable though.
Also, I stayed at Roughgrange Farm, which is across the road from Newgrange. It was lovely, and the view was terrific. Keep that in mind when you are looking for a place to stay.

Hi Marcia,
We just returned from a 13 day trip to Ireland last night! We had an amazing time and enjoyed great traditional music in the pubs, met wonderful people, and saw spectacular scenery around every corner. We flew in and out of Shannon which is a small and easy airport to navigate. We rented a car there and drove straight to our first stop Kinsale. Our itinerary was: Kinsale (2 nights), Kenmare (1 night), Dingle (3 nights), Galway (3 nights), Tulla (2 nights)--we attended a Traditional Music Festival in Tulla and stayed with locals, then Ennis (1 night)--it's only a 30 minute drive to return to Shannon airport from Ennis. Our biggest surprise was the expense--Ireland is surprisingly expensive --especially food. Our average B&B cost for the trip was 77 Euro with 90 Euro the high (Galway) and 60 Euro the low (Tulla.)