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One Week in Ireland Over New Years 2010 - Feedback, Please

Planning a 7-night stay in Ireland, leaving Chicago Christmas Night and returning on January 2nd. Here's my current draft-itinerary. Thoughts? I appreciate your help.

-Fly Chicago to Shannon
-Bus Shannon to Galway
-3 nights Galway (12.26, 27 & 28), including a day drip with private guide to the Cliffs of Mohr and town of Ennis
-Train from Galway to Dublin 12.29
-4 nights Dublin (12.29, 30, 31, and 1-1), including day trip to Bru’ na Boinne and a concert NYE
-Fly Dublin to Chicago on Jan 2

Questions I have include:
-What will Galway be like on St. Stephens' Day, 12.26?
-Is Ennis worth a stop on a guided day trip to the Cliffs of Mohr?
-Are the Cliffs of Mohr worth seeing in the winter?
-Have heard good things about Kilkenny, south of Dublin. Would ANYTHING there be open New Year's Day?
-Are we crazy for visiting the Emerald Isle in winter?
-Would love to find a way to spend one or two nights in a smaller town, too, but recognize with just seven nights and a desire to visit Galway and Dublin, that's probably unrealistic. We'd prefer to stick with public transport, too, which the itinerary above seems okay with. Am I right in the assumption that 7 nights, including Galway and Dublin, all by public transport, really makes a third stop, a small town, unworkable?
-Is 12.31 a holiday with all sites closed in Ireland, or with shorter hours during the day?
-Last one: we've selected Dublin for NYE because we're city people, and have read about some wonderful concerts there NYE over the past few years. However, does anyone think Galway would be better for NYE?

Thank you. Appreciate your thoughts on any or all of the above.

Posted by
9371 posts

Of course the Cliffs of Moher (not Mohr) are worth seeing any time of the year. They are best in the afternoon, though, because the light will be on them then. The wind can be bitter there, but overall you won't find winter temps to be anything approaching Chicago's winters. The bonus is no crowds. And yes, it is possible to stay a night in a third town with only seven nights. I've done it several times. It just depends on your travel style, really. I wouldn't waste my time with Kilkenny since it's so far out of your way.

Posted by
319 posts

Gio,

Given your itinerary, your best bet for a night in a small town is to stay somewhere in the vicinity of of the Cliffs. Ennis would be one option, Doolin another. You could also spend a night on Inishmore, the biggest of the Aran Islands. There are B&Bs there, and while it is different than staying in a town on the mainland, everyone who has done it says it is a great experience.

I would definitely recommend at least one night in a small town. It will help you enjoy the true Irish experience much better than the cities.

Posted by
9371 posts

I would suggest Doolin, Ennis, or Lahinch. The Aran Islands could be a problem in the winter, since the scheduled ferries are less frequent and are often canceled due to rough seas. You'd hate to get stranded out there an extra day or more because of weather.

Posted by
586 posts

Thanks! Thinking seriously about flying to Shannon, bus to Ennis (20 min), 2 nights Ennis, bus to Galway (1.25 hrs), 2 nights Galway, train to Dublin (2.5 hrs), 3 nights Dublin, fly home from Dublin. The day trip to the Cliffs of Moher could be from either Ennis or Galway, by guided tour. A plausable plan?

Posted by
9371 posts

Ah, looks like we posted at the same time! Yes, your new plan looks good. I'd suggest doing the Cliffs of Moher tour from Ennis, if it's available, since there is less to do in that area than in the Galway area.

Posted by
586 posts

Got it! Thanks, again, both of your, for your help. I think I'm set.

Posted by
530 posts

As others have suggested, skip Ennis and choose Doolin or Lahinch if you want an intermediate place.

I'll be curious to hear of your trip after the fact. I've toyed with visiting Ireland in the dead of winter, but haven't done it yet. Let us know how it goes.

Posted by
484 posts

You need to check the bus schedules and see when they run on the 26th. Many places will close on the 24th and not open again until at least the 27th or in some cases after Jan.3rd,so if you are planning on staying in B&B's I would phone them now to find out when they will be open.

Posted by
2 posts

The best place to be in Ireland on St Stephens Day is in Dingle, no better place. They have a festival that runs all day long!!! We were there two years ago and had so much fun, Google Wren's Day Dingle for more info. Staying in Dingle gives you a wonderful visit to a small town plus you can see the Dingle Penninsula, it is like ring of Kerry but better.We also saw the Cliffs of Moher during this time of year and we were practically alone there, much better than when I visited in June. I have visited Ireland twice once in June and once in December and prefered the December trip and the weather was better, mid 50's and sunny and not crowds of tourists. Dublin can be seen in two days and so can Galway, in fact more than two days in Galway is too much. I reccomend you start in Dingle for St Stephens Day, then see Cliffs of Moher on way to Galway and then finish up in Dublin. Dublin better for New Years, Galway is smaller town and will offer less options, unless you are younger and like to party.

Posted by
2 posts

Also drove through Doolin during this time of year and it was a ghost town, only small town with something to do this time of year is Dingle, Google Dingle Penninsula.

Posted by
319 posts

Nancy: Thanks for the correction. That's a great point. I'd forgotten about the potential weather problems with the ferries that time of year.

Gio: Using public transit to get to and from Dingle is tough. It's not impossible, but it's not easy. And probably even more difficult in the winter.

If I were you, I might consider skipping Galway. It's a nice small city, but you'll get a good taste of Irish city life in Dublin. Dingle would give you the small town experience you're looking for.

You could fly to Shannon, go see the Cliffs and stay in one of the nearby towns on night 1. Then head to Dingle for a couple of days before moving on to Dublin.

Whatever you decide, enjoy your trip.

Posted by
586 posts

The festival at Dingle looks GREAT, but in terms of accessing Dingle from a flight into either Dublin OR Shannon, and then getting from Dingle up to Galway, all with public transport...seems like a deal-breaker to me. Any advice on transport, or does it come down to if I want to include Dingle, a car rental is a must?

Posted by
12 posts

Cliffs of Moher would be great in any season, I think.

I really like the town of Ennis (music, pubs, shops) but don't know what a stop on a day tour would involve.

Galway to Dingle by public transportation is an all day affair from what I saw on the BusEireann.ie site

Another way to go might be a day trip north/west out of Galway into the Connemara region, including a stop at Kylemore Abbey. Or consider one of the smaller towns there for an overnight -- it would only be a short bus ride to Oughterard or Clifden, I think.
http://www.lallytours.com/index.html
http://www.discoverireland.ie/Connemara.aspx

Most travelers like to head to the west coast and away from cities. I enjoy a mix and I love Dublin. I spent 4 days there in May, and it was the 3rd time I've been there. Especially with holiday closings, short daylight hours, and questionable weather, it seems like a good place to be to find things to do. (Hmm -- looks like the Book of Kells exhibit is closed from 12/23 to 1/2 -- too bad!)

I like Kilkenny, too, and the train ride there from Dublin isn't bad, but I'm not sure it would be worth it for you on this trip.

Weather permitting, another nice day trip from Dublin is to Glendalough in County Wicklow. Beautiful. Looks like the Visitor Centre would not be open, but I think the site itself would be.

You'll really have to check into what sites will be open in the winter, especially around the holidays. Many B&B's close during that time, and some bus and train routes might have different holiday schedules.

That said, any time is a good time to be in Ireland. Have fun!

Posted by
3262 posts

Hi Gio,

I too, want to hear about your experience visiting Ireland in the winter. My thought is totally against what you've already decided but I'll put it out there anyway--it would be great if you could visit Dingle! You could fly in and out of Shannon, skip Dublin this trip and just focus on the west coast. Doolin, Dingle, and maybe another town. Even though it's a smaller town, I think that Dingle would be really festive during the holidays. The food in Dingle is great, the pubs are really fun, the scenery is gorgeous, and it's less expensive than Dublin.

Just a thought! It sounds like a fun trip!

Posted by
586 posts

Thank you ALL so much for the thought-provoking advice. Really grateful. I feel as if the suggestions provided are enough to plan 3 unique excursions! But given all of it, here's what we've arrived at, driven in part by the realities of winter closings we've encountered in our planning and our commitment to public transport for this particular trip. I know it's not perfect but hope it's fun just the same:

-Fly Chicago to Shannon
-Bus or taxi to Old Groud Hotel in Ennis
-2 nights Ennis including walking tour now set for the morning after our arrival, and a visit to Bunratty Castle that afternoon (by private taxi hired) - the castle re-opens on this day, following the Christmas holiday; music in a local pub tonight
-Early AM bus to Galway, checkin Ardawn House B&B for 1 night; take day trip to Cliffs of Moher, Doolin and The Burren offered on this day by O’Neachtain Tours; dinner and night in Galway
-Explore Galway next day for ½ day, then train to Dublin
-Checkin Fitzwilliam Townhouse for 4 nights, including NYE & NYD
-While in Dublin take bus tour, visit Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Castle, Kilmainhem Gaol, and No. 29 Georgian House; explore Grafton Street, O’Connell Street, St. Stephen’s Green, Temple Bar, Kilkenny Department store, Trinity College, and see a musical at the Gaiety Theatre
-New Year’s Eve: evensong at Christchurch Cathedral, followed by dinner, and then back to the Cathedral for countdown and fireworks at midnight
-New Year’s Day: Lord Mayor’s New Year’s Day Parade
-Fly home direct 2 Jan Dublin to Chicago

The schedule we’ve laid out works in terms of the winter openings of each sight/business, and limits long ground travel. Unfortunately, the Old Library at Trinity (Book of Kells) doesn’t re-open after Christmas until the 2 January, the date of our departure. Opens at 9:30 AM; we fly out at about 12:45 PM. Hmmm. (: Anyway, next Ireland trip, sounds like the Dingle Penninsula is a MUST!

Posted by
12 posts

Sounds like you have done your research and come up with a great plan. Have fun!

Posted by
3262 posts

It sounds like an amazing trip made possible by excellent planning on your part! Enjoy!

P.S. We stayed across the street from the Old Ground Hotel in Ennis and I remember thinking that the hotel looked like a lovely place to stay! We enjoyed the food at Poet's Corner Pub in the hotel.