We are planning on doing a variation of Norway in a Nutshell (one way from Oslo to Bergen) in August 2010. We are looking at a couple different tour groups. The trip is the same from Oslo to Flam. From Flam to Bergen, the options are (i) Flam to Balestrand to Bergen by Expressboat; or (ii) Flam to Gudvangen by boat, Gudvangen to Voss by bus and then from Voss to Bergen by train. Is there a preference between option (i) and (ii) and why? Are there pro's and con's to each option. We are not so much concerned with cost but more so about which is the better experience. Thanks for any suggestions.
We did option (ii) and it was a great day. The bus ride will curl your hair but it's very fun. Can't comment about option (i), never did it. And you definitely don't need to do it with a tour group, unless that's your preference.
Like the others have said, you don't need to join a tour group. I know as an American sitting at home with no idea what to expect, it seems risky not to join a tour. But ALL modes of transportation in Scandinavia are scheduled in such a way that you can almost always just walk up to the gate/dock/driver and just pay and step on. The only portion that I would want to take care of a couple of days ahead of time is the train.
I think the real issue between your (i) and (ii) is time. Spending more time on the water via Balestrand will take more than one day. And if you want to take advantage of your time in Balestrand, see a glacier, hike, etc. it will take more than two days. The standard nutshell with more time on trains is a one (long) day experience.
You should ask yourself how much time you think being on the water in a fjord will engage you. We loved our two fjord cruises, but both were under two hours and I think it would have lost some luster if they had been longer. Also, the more stunning parts of fjords are generally the narrower fingers. Once you get into the wider channels nearer the coastline, it's more like a big river. The area from Balestrand to Bergen is like that. But if you love being on the water, you would enjoy it. The alternative portion of the train route (Voss-Bergen) is pleasant, but not extraordinary.
Robert,
Same sentiment for me with respect to the tour group. Between Norwegians speaking excellent English, and the amount of tourists floating through that area feel you can feel very secure with getting the answers you need.
I think for me when we took our trip there were three things that stood out for me
- Train from Myrdal - Flam
- Naeroyfjord (i.e. Flam-Gudvangen)
- Balestrand - Wonderful place to relax (That said I would endorse Balestrand Hotel over Kvikne's IMHO)
Both options you present are nice and as was said earlier time is the biggest factor. If you have the time than Balestrand is fantastic to stay at. However in theory you lose the chance to go on the Naeroyfjord which is spectacular due to the narrowness of it.
If you do have the time (and you are not touring) there is no rule that says you can't go from Flam-Gudvangen by Boat and instead of going to to Voss - Take the bus back to Flam (takes like 20 minutes and costs like 4 or 5 USD). From there continue on the express boat towards Balestrand.
Again I think everyone said it right - The train ride Voss-Bergen is nice but not wow. Similarly going on the express boat is nice (maybe even more so that train); however there is not that uniqueness I felt between Flam and Gudvangen.
Again just my opinions. Hope yoe have fun
Hi Robert,
Are you planning on staying overnight in Bergen at all? I would recommend doing this and if so maybe just do the Norway in the Nutshell tour from Bergen. If you want to do it from Oslo it's workable...but are you going to have all your luggage with you? If so it might be difficult for you to take your luggage on an off the different trains, boat, and bus.
I did the norway in the nutshell tour from Bergen and it was super easy to figure out without a tour guide. We went to the vistor center in Bergen and bought our tickets which clearly says where to go etc. We did the ii version and it was wonderful. The views were amazing.
Have a great trip!