Getting around Norway

Welcome to the group that does really, really stupid things. Trondheim to Rognan is only about four hundred miles, but it took me ten hours to drive it. Bodo is another seventy-five miles and added about three hours. There's a train station at Rognan, a port at Bodo, and small airports at each. That's all I know about public transportation. The scenery is worth the drive; so is the desolation. I'm not sure if it's worth robbing three days out of fourteen just to go see a sign (it's fifty to seventy-five miles north of Rana).

People strongly recommend the mail boat cruise up the West Coast from Bergen. They say the little towns and fjords are sensational. I have not done it

You can do a really nice loop drive up to Trondheim on the E6 (via Lillihammer), then back down the coast. Turn west at Oppdal and head to Molde, then Alesund, and points south. the road crosses fjords by ferry and tunnels under the mountains at various points. You'll find lots of hiiking opportunites and great scenery. For hiking ideas, check with the Nowegian Trekking club, or DNT: http://www.turistforeningen.no/english/index.php?fo_id=3609 You best way to get inside the Arctic Circle withou spending a week or so of your imte would be to take a flight from Trondheim.

Revision due to wife's better memory: there's a 'camping' place right after you get off the freeway at Rana. Staying there and making a quick out-and-back to the circle would save a lot of driving. We didn't stay there and I don't remember it, but these places are generally campgrounds with a few small, immaculate cabins. The only running water is at the kitchen sink, but the other stuff is in another, very tidy communal building. We've stayed in several to shave the expenses, but have just stumbled across them. It helps - - the cheapest meal we found in Bergen was two beers and two small pizzas for eighty bucks. That was maybe six or seven years ago - - I have no reason to suspect that prices have dropped.

Food prices in Norway will definitely curl your toes. Here is a representative menu from a popular place in Bergen: http://www.dickensbergen.no/ (click on "meny") You'll see things like herring with potato salad, 162 kroner; seafood linguine, 175 kroner; meat and fish entrees 249 and up. The good news is the quality is excellent. The camping cabins are a great way to go, especially if you can self-cater your meals, or picnic.

If I were planning that trip, I'd do it as a cruise. Sea is the best way to approach the area and you will have day stops to get out an do some hiking. Cruising here can be economical because the price includes lodging, transportation and food - also you don't have to repack, check out, check in, unpack, which is nice when traveling. Check vacationstogo.com, search for cruises that depart from Bergen in the months you are interested in.

I would take the train north to Bodø, then the ferry across to the Lofoten islands - stay 3-4 nights and do some hiking in an amazingly unique & stunning environment above the arctic circle. Either fly or take the train back (night train is possible). With a rail pass, this long ride is a good value, but a flight would be faster. The boat up the coast is costly and very slow. You can see some of the area above the arctic circle faster the way I described. Use the extra days to explore the rest of Norway, including the often overlooked northern fjords like Geiranger (better than the 'nutshell" cruise). Many people sing the praises of the experience of going all the way to the "top" of Norway by either plane or boat, but "odd & quirky" never appealed to me much. That area is pretty bleak. I prefer conventionally attractive scenery.