Doolin, Ireland -- overrated?

What time of the year were you there, Patrick?

When did you visit? The time of year is a HUGE factor. But, to think Doolin wouldn't have more tourists than locals was very very naive. You either have to expect it or plan to avoid it. I do share the same concerns though and I always travel off-season and try to find my own back doors. My favorite game in Ireland was to guess how many people will be reading a Rick Steves' book at breakfast. My wife usually won.

As for hearing Rod Stewart...I think locals appreciate hearing an eclectic mix of music sung with an Irish perspective. When does music become traditional? Does it have to be 100 years old? 50 years? 20? The fiddle isn't a traditional instrument, neither is a guitar. But, they both were incorporated to what you now consider traditional. I'm sorry, but I think you completely miss the point about what Irish pub music is.

I fully concede I may be off base. It may have been me, may have been the night. I don't know.

But I will say that I'm usually very patient about sites being touristy. The Cliffs of Moher were overrun with tourists and people the Sunday we were there; it didn't take away from its beauty. I may have been naive ... but Rick did state in his book that the music in Doolin can be hit and miss. The pub struck me more as a tourist attraction than a "traditional Irish" music spot.

As for not getting the pub notion, I've been around. And I suggest you read what I posted about Kenmare. That was a town with a fantastic pub scene, with amazing music (LINK: http://www.ricksteves.com/graffiti/helpline/index.cfm/rurl/topic/36944/ireland--visit-kenmare-and-stay-at-the-coachmans.html)

As for when I was there ... we just got back. We were in Doolin a week ago, which would have been Saturday, Aug. 10. Yes, it may have had something to do with it.

And yes, it could be me. But I honestly don't think so.

pat

I know that Rick only gives it about one paragraph in his book but if you want to hear some grand music,few tourists,and amazing scenery take a look at Donegal.

When the music doesn't start till 11:00 P.M. and the only tourist besides yourself in the place is a Brit who is married to an Irish woman you can be assured of some authentic music. No paid performers here.

Yes, traveling in August has a LOT to do with it. I have been in Doolin in the shoulder season (April) and in what I would consider the off-season (late February). In neither case was there a crowd, particularly not of tourists. (I love your reference to "tourists and people" at the Cliffs of Moher - as though tourists are a different species and you weren't one of them.) A lot of songs that people would generally consider "traditional" are really fairly recent ("Fields of Athenry" is an example), including lots of instrumental stuff. I'd chalk your experience up more to time of year and maybe exaggerated expectations.

"if you want to hear some grand music,few tourists,and amazing scenery take a look at Donegal."

Where in Donegal? I'm going to be camped out in Letterkenney for three days on our trip in September.

We spent a week in Doolin this summer. Maybe other towns would have been a better home base, but we had been there before and knew the place, so we chose Doolin. We loved the location, being close to the Burren and the cliffs, plus being able to catch ferries to the Aran Islands from town. We got a good rate on cottages there, too.

As far as the music -- we were there in June. The music in the pubs started at 9:30. When we were there 12 years ago in August, they had music starting in the afternoons, around 5, which consisted of a guy playing guitar singing covers. The traditional music started later, around 10. But the cool part of having the guy there singing covers was that I got to go up and sing "King of the Road" with him. Not your typical traditional Irish music, but fun, nonetheless.

I'm with you, PatrickMc. I have a good friend of mine, and we've both spent a good bit of time in Ireland. She LOVES Doolin - it's one of her favorite places. Me...it's a nice place, I've had some fun evenings there, but I don't really think of it as a must see destination. I guess the charm is that it's small, has a scenic setting, and you can reliably find traditional Irish music there (or perhaps not in your case). I guess I just don't think it's that unique. That being said, you can get some fun crowds in Doolin. Yes, it's going to be 99% tourists, but it can be a fun bunch of people who are there specifically to drink and listen to music.

I agree completely, Patrick! I can understand the pubs being crowded, and I did hear some trad music, but it were so many people there it drowned out the music. There was SO much traffic on the narrow roads, not just cars, but bicycles and long lines of backpackers. I was there in August, and I know that's a popular time, but really, overall, it wasn't fun "bustling" of other busy places like Dingle or Dublin. If I'm nearby next time, I would visit a day, but stay somewhere else.