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Trip Report: Prague, Budapest and Vienna

Flew in/out of Prague on BA and used a "European East" train pass, which was easy and comfortable. All cities have fantastic public transit.

Prague: Beautiful town, but buy a SEPARATE book of maps. Liked: cruise, early morning walks, Jewish quarter, and picnic supplies from "Bakeshop" just off Old Town Square. AVOID the rude staff, construction, and inability to honor pre-paid reservations at the Prague Marriott. Tourism is low and we found locals to be almost hostile in many places. Warning: cobblestone streets EVERYWHERE so bring comfy shoes. Also, if you are a museum person, go someplace else. Prague is about cafe culture, beer and architecture.

Budapest: Beautiful, diverse, friendly and cosmopolitan yet inexpensive "Paris of the East." Highlights: "Absolute Walking Tours," Szechenyi baths, seeing an opera, and the House of Terror museum. Picnic food: "Hummus Bar" which had the best falafel I've ever eaten. Budapest Marriott: 5 stars at 2 star prices, including most meals. Lowlights: we had to leave.

Vienna: Its very efficient, but (gasp) kind of sterile. Enjoyed a chamber concert at MozartHaus, Hofsburg Palace, and the Naschmarkt (unbelievable open air market). REALLY expensive ($6 for a latte) and the vibe there was all business.

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More on Prague: I agree with some other postings about the tourist crowd in Old Town - its really horrible from about 9:30 in the morning until midnight. Outside of the square though, there is no problem with tourist noise or crowds. We used Prague Airport Transfers (that is the name of the company) which cost 560 czk (about $30) for a transfer for 2 people from the airport. We thought that was really reasonable and they came in a Mercedes. If you are going in the very near future, check out the Terracotta Army exhibit from China. It was small, but well done and not expensive (about $14 I think). We stayed 1 night at the Ibis Mala Strana which came free with our BA ticket. It was a tiny room, but very comfy and clean. Across the street is the mall (Praha 5) and they have a Tesco's supermarket plus a big screen movie theater with movies in English (and great people watching). We had some of the best pizza I've ever eaten at 'Pizza Colosseum' which is about 2 blocks away, right above the Andel metro station (125 czk, which is about $6). The river cruise we took was with "Prague Venice." It cost 290 czk and was only for an hour but it was on a smaller boat and you got to have a guide rather than a loudspeaker. You can rent paddleboats from this company too. Originally we planned to do the 3 hour jazz cruise, but an hour was plenty. I hated the Prague Marriott but its location was unbeatable - just around the corner from the Palladium Mall (avoid unless you really need a shot of Starbucks) and the Namesty Republicky metro station was unbeatable. It is a 5-10 minute walk from the Old Town square, but not at all noisy (there are other hotels in this area). If I were to go back, I'd stay in Hradcany below Castle Hill. That area was just as beautiful and charming, minus the drunks. Also we noticed that almost everyone we ran into was having trouble finding things. It is very frustrating.

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More on Budapest: Wow, this city just blew me away. We stayed 3 nights and I really wish we would have stayed at least a week. The baths are the most amazing experience-warm but not hot, with lazy river rings, mini geysers, saunas, cold pools, cabins for changing, etc. It is so relaxing and you can do that in any weather. The people watching is something else! I got hit on by several of the Hungarian men, which was really funny - I kept holding up my wedding rings and then realized later that they wear their rings on their right hands so they probably thought I was mental or something, ha ha. I really recommend taking a walking tour. We did the Absolute version with a wonderful guide named Adina. We only had 6 people in the group, so it was like a private tour. Budapest is a HUGE city with 1.75 million people so that was a great way to get the lay of the land and hit many of the highlights so we could decide what to go back to. Many guidebooks said to buy a metro pass, but honestly you can walk just about anywhere and buy a single point ticket when you get tired (they charge one rate for 3 stops and another rate for more than 3 stops, be sure to check that before you get on). They do patrol the trains and every single time we rode we were asked for our tickets. The fine for the wrong one is something like 5000 forints (the more than 3 stop ticket is only 300 forints). There is a lot of ethnic diversity here, but Hungary is 90% catholic and there is a little resentment towards 'others.' There is a very small Jewish area which happens to have the second largest synagogue in the world, but very few Jews live in Budapest. I'm a Buddhist, and was amused by the number of "Buda Buddhas" they have on sale at some tourist shops. The produce there is something else -- wonderfully fresh and colorful. Try to visit one of the 5 farmers markets, or even a Billa grocery store. The Great Market Hall is beautiful.

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More on Budapest: the Opera House is a must see. We saw a performance of Lucia di Lammmermore which I really enjoyed (who knew, I'm in my 30s and always thought opera was for the rich and the old). The House of Terror was powerful, if slightly jumbled. DO NOT take children there as in the elevator ride down to the basement you are forced to watch a video explaining the execution process that the secret police employed. The museum does have English materials, but not speaking Hungarian was a detriment because of all the propaganda and newspapers that weren't translated. There is a period on the Nazi occupation, the Soviet "liberation," the 1956 Uprising and at the bottom floor are reconstructed cells and a controversial gallery of Communist-era police who committed atrocities who are mostly still alive. Andrassy Boulevard was just fantastic for inexpensive shopping and people watching - you can walk all the way down it to Heroes square at the City Park area (where the Szencheyi baths are). My dirty vice was going to Costa Coffee (British based) every morning and retes, which are Hungarian strudels and I think better than the original.

Vienna: If you can visit the MozartHaus, do it! The chamber concert we went to was really cool - four musicians in period costumes played for 90 minutes. The chamber was actually played in by Mozart himself for a few weeks and has these amazing Baroque frescoes. I think we paid 42 Euros for the front/center row and we could have touched the instruments. We also went to visit the Hundertwasser Haus which was neat but I couldn't understand why the masses flocked to it because you can't go inside. Frankly, the desserts there will make you think you've rolled over and died. Cafe Demel: sachertorte.

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I have been trying to figure out the perfect way to describe Vienna and you nailed it. I found it to be sterile as well especially after being in Budapest and other places out East.

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10344 posts

Ok, ok. But let's recognize that people liking or not liking Vienna is highly subjective and a matter of personal preference. There's a million people out there who love Vienna, and there are reasons for that.

Posted by
990 posts

Sorry, but I'm with Kate and Kerry. Vienna is, I think, my least favorite European city. And of course, like all opinions, mine is subjective. Just like many of our posts waxing rhapsodic about our favorite European haunts.

I appreciate posters' honest opinions about their travels. I take them for what they are, a traveler's personal take on his or her travels. I know this isn't what you intended, Kent, but your response comes across as disapproving of critical comments about European destinations. Ironic, given that the comments here were fairly mild and measured in tone. I would not want posters to feel that this forum is reserved only for those with positive glowing reports.