Anyone have any suggestions as to the best way to do this route? I was thinking of taking the train from Sarajevo to Mostar, staying for the night then taking the bus to Dubrovnik. I've always read that the train trip is cool from Sarajevo to Mostar through the mountains/hills.
I'd love to hear any thumbs up/thumbs down on this plan - anyone have any experience with either leg of this trip or both of them?
Thanks in advance! Ciao!
We did the first part (Sarajevo to Mostar) last August and I definitely recommend taking the train. More comfortable and more scenic since the track seems to be at a higher level than the road. Further, if lucky you will have the compartment to yourself and can spread out - also, taking photographs of the scenic ride is far easier from the train.
Finally, I found the train prices to be about 60% of the bus trip that we took on our return to Sarajevo (we did this as a day trip since we were headed onto Serbia next).
Do note that there are only 2 trains a day - the one we took left at 7 am. This puts you into Mostar a little after 9. Not sure that you need an entire day and night in Mostar (I found Sarajevo far more interesting).
If you wanted, you could take the early train, visit Mostar, have lunch and in the afternoon take a bus to the coast (you will have to figure out the bus timings to see if this is doable though I think I saw a few other tourists that were doing this route).
I actually have a dissenting opinion to Arnold's, which I hate to do because I've always secretely hoped Arnold would adopt my husband and I and take us along on all of his travels (seriously, Arnold, you have been to some amazing places).
But last year we took the train from Mostar to Sarajevo and took the bus back, and preferred the bus. My memory doesn't recall a big price disparity between the two (and I'm cheap, so if the bus was a lot more we wouldn't have done it), and I recall the travel time was about the same. The train seemed to go through a lot of tunnels and didn't seem to be nearly as scenic (they both follow roughly the same route along the river), and the bus seemed to give a closer view of the countryside, homes (both intact and bombed-out) and random UN trailers that had been abandoned after the war. Further, and this might be one reason why the bus seems a better option to me, smoking was allowed on the train and our small compartment for 6 people got even smaller when someone would light up. Without opening a window. I'm certainly not an anti-smoking nazi, but the air got to be a bit thick inside, so getting off the train and sucking in deep breaths of train engine diesel was a welcome relief.
Either way, though, gets you from A to B so you really can't go wrong. Hope you have a great trip!
Angela - I guess it may come down to time of day. The train we were on was not full - since we travel as a family, we had the compartment to ourselves and the kids spread out to sleep. The sun was just coming up and I was able to get some really good pictures from the train as it climbed into the mountains and through the tunnels.
For me the bus was quite full and since it was lower than the rail lines the view down the canyons was limited. From the train you also get to look into a number of villages and get a peek of what life is like in the countryside - I guess I liked the fact I could stand at the train window and stick my head out and take in the amazing scenery.
As to the price - I was very surprised as to the difference - I was expecting the bus to cost the same as the train but it was a lot higher - close to double the price of the train.
Arnold, you are absolutely right that individual experience would play a part in future preference. And next time you plan a trip and think you'd want a couple of baggage handlers to come along, well, look no further. We travel light and adapt well... :)
Michael, an unsolicited suggestion I have for you regarding Sarajevo is to check out the Sarajevo Brewery for a meal (they don't do tours). It is walking distance from the tourist old town part, the food is good, and the room is stunning.
Happy travels!
I took the bus from Dubrovnik to Mostar in fall 2008 and it worked really well. No reason to think the Mostar to Dubrovnik trip would be any different. It would be wise to purchase your bus ticket to Dubrovnik as soon after arrival in Mostar as possible, as buses sometimes sell out. Bus tickets can only be purchased in the local currency (Convertable Mark - KM) and not Euro, Kuna or any other, so be sure to stop at an ATM before going to the main bus station to purchase your ticket. You'll also pay a small fee directly to the driver for each stored bag.
On another note, I found an overnight stay in Mostar to be worthwhile. There was plenty to fill one day, and you don't want to miss the incredibly good yet surprisingly inexpensive dinners. A great place to stay in the central part of town is Villa Fortuna. It's about a 20 minute walk from the bus station (don't recall where the train station is located) and you can book through their website.
thanks to everyone for your help! I'll be sure to post back and let you know how everything works out!
