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Prague for the first time!

I'm looking forward to my visit to Prague in early January, but I'm having a hard time finding things to do. All the guidebooks go into detail for each country in western Europe but just sort of wave a hand over ALL of eastern Europe in one chapter! I'm on a budget (hostels, grocery store shopping) but I'd love to hear what you all did and saw both tourist and off the beaten path. Will have maybe four days there. I Love history, art, food, beauty, outdoors, indoors...

Posted by
449 posts

Hi Sara: I haven't been to Prague in nearly two decades. I loved the city. At that time it was a very inexpensive place to visit. My advice is for you to go to the Tourist Scam section of this web site and look for warnings for that city. In particular look for restaurant bills that add up to more than what they should be. Also, be sure to understand what restaurant items come with a fee (e.g, bread basket). The other things to watch out for are crooked taxi drivers and street money changers.

Posted by
73 posts

Oh gosh, well that makes me a bit nervous, especially because Czech is not in my repertoire of languages! But thanks for the heads up.

Posted by
17916 posts

Prague ranks right up there with Vienna as a place best seen off season (less Disneyland like with fewer tourists) Risk S. has both a good guidebook and a DVD I believe. A good supplement to Rocks book is the DK Eyewitness Guide to Prague. Buy both books and do some reading.

Posted by
73 posts

That's interesting you mentioned Vienna. I was going to go there, but didn't see a lot to keep myself occupied for several days. Sure the architecture is beautiful but I can only walk around in the freezing temps for so long! Do you think I should put Vienna back on the list?

Posted by
73 posts

Well thats good to hear as we only have about 2 days in Prague now that I've drawn up a semi-final itinerary. And I did add Vienna back in. We will be there for New Years Eve I am travelling with my brother and he is in university so the only time we can travel is December/January and he is dying to see this part of Europe and I am more than happy to oblige. It will be cold, yes, but less crowded we hope. Thanks for all the suggestions, can't wait to hear more about your experiences in Prague!

Posted by
2740 posts

You really need to read a good guide book on Prague, highly recommend Rick Steves or lonely Planet. There is beautiful architecture ranging from 13th Century through a tremendous Art Nouveau area. You say you are interested in history and Prague is filled with it, some time with the guide books will reveal many places you will wish to visit. There are several excellent museums, particularly the National Gallery's medieval art collection in the St Agnes Convent. You did not mention music, but I will add that Dvorak Hall, home of the Czech Philharmonic, is one of the finest concert halls in the world.The restaurant /tourist scam issues are not anywhere as bad as some posters here would have you believe, you merely need to pay attention. And as a new user of this board, you also need to understand that for some reason some individuals seem to have taken it as a their life's goal to take whatever steps necessary to get others to follow only their particular tastes.
Prague is one of many great places and i hope you have not short-changed yourself by limiting it to 2 days.

Posted by
73 posts

I hope that two days is enough as well. My itinerary isn't set in stone, so I'll look out for some good guidebooks and adjust as necessary. Right now we go from Vienna to Prague to Berlin. Would like to take night trains, but it looks like too short a distance for that. Thanks for all the great advice! My brother is 19 and, while he loves history as well, if anyone has some ideas for funkier activities I'd love to hear. We will go out for a beer, but I'd rather not be drunk the whole time I'm in Europe: )

Posted by
17916 posts

I wouldn't be too afraid of the crime. Just use common sense. Each country has a website similar to this with additional information: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1099.html#safety Central Europe has gotten a bad rap and I don't know if it was once deserved but it isn't now. At least to my experience it isn't. I saw and almost became victim to more scams in Paris than every place I've been in Central Europe combined. I would tell my kids; only get in a taxi with the name and phone number painted on the door. If there is some sort of argument or fight going on in the middle of a square be sure that you understand that it is a distraction to make it easier to pick your pockets. Stay away from people that look like gypsies no matter how nice they seem. Don't ride the sleeper trains. If it seems too good to be true that's because it is too good to be true. Split your money up so they can't take it all at once and keep a copy of all your important documents in a safe place. Otherwise have fun. Prague seems to be most appreciated by the younger crowd so you might want to spend more time there. It's tough to go to the Czech Republic and not get drunk; the beer is that good. In Vienna it's tough to go and not want to get drunk; the prices are that high.

Posted by
2026 posts

I was in Prague in 1975 and again in 2011. For me, it remains one of the most stunningly beautiful cities I have visted. As for crowds, well, that's life. In 1975 the sidewalks outside our hotel were mobbed with people. They were Czechs, and on this day a store was selling canned pineapple for Christmas. You stood shoulder to shoulder in a bakery for 30 minutes trying to buy some rolls while the two attendants did their nails and the frenzied locals screamed and waved, to no avail. Gazing out over the city I told a local how beautiful it all was; he pointed out to me that I could not see the Russian troops beyond the trees. Nowadays they are tourists from all over the world who have come to also admire this historic and vibrant city. Suits me. If nothing else, just walk.

Posted by
73 posts

Thanks for all the great responses so far. I'll be sure to be aware of my surroundings--good thing my brother is large and imposing! Are there particular cultural points I should be aware of in Prague? I would like to try very hard to not offend locals too much while I am there. I know I should always ask of someone speaks English instead of assuming and that sort of thing, but I welcome any tips or cultural insights you learned while travelling there!

Posted by
672 posts

In addition to all of the more mainstream sites (St. Vitus and castle hill, Strahov Monastery and Library, Charles Bridge, Josefov, etc.) check out Villa Bertramka (http://www.prague.cz/bertramka), where Mozart stayed while in Prague. It is now a museum dedicated to the composer and, in addition to manuscripts and the instruments he played, they even display a lock of his hair. It is a little outside of the city center but is easily reachable by tram, followed by a short walk. It is located in a park-like setting that is peacful and quiet, and is a nice change from the crowded city center. I also liked Vysehrad, with the SS Peter and Paul Church and the cemetery, whose 'inhabitants' include the composer Dvorak. Again, a little outside of the city center, but easily reachable and a beautiful and quiet setting.

Posted by
811 posts

I've been to Prague twice, once in 2005 and once in 2010. If there is one thing I would strongly - strongly - recommend, it would be to learn a bit of the language, even just the basics like hello, please, thank you, you are welcome, some numbers (at least 1-5), beer, wine, coffee, water, etc. My first trip to Prague was the very first stop in my very first trip out of North America. I knew no Czech and, frankly, learning any was secondary to just trying to adjust to foreign travel in general. I tried to pick up a few words here and there but heavily relied on English. In turn, I found service in restaurants, shops, etc. to range from brusque to rude. Fast forward to 2010 (and several adventures abroad later), and I returned to Prague with my husband. He has a natural penchant for foreign languages and we both tried to learn the basics of Czech. I can definitely say the reception we had by attempting to speak (very basic) Czech was well-received and service was 100% better. Sure, this advice applies to just about any place where English isn't the predominant language, but it's just my observation that in Prague, especially, a city that is sooo heavily touristed, the service industry personnel really seemed to take notice when even the meekest attempt at Czech was given.

Posted by
17916 posts

What to do or see is all about your interests and what moves you. I generally didnt get too excited about Prague. It was just "okay" with one exception. the Jewish district moved me deeply. Might just have been the mood i was in that day but I havent been quite the same since.

Posted by
6502 posts

Hi again Sarah, didn't I just run into you over in "To the North"? I liked Prague very much, especially St. Vitus Cathedral and the Lobkovicz Palace museum on Castle Hill, the synagogues and old cemetery in the Jewish Quarter, the Charles Bridge (preferably early AM sans crowds), the Old Town Square and Tyn Church. Easy walking, beautiful river, lots to see, great beer as a bonus. My three days weren't enough, I could have used a couple more. We found lots of English speakers, especially the younger people, and no hostility or unpleasantness (though I've heard elsewhere about the scammning others have described, and I'd be careful as in any big city). It's always a good idea to learn a little about the language anywhere, bring a small phrasebook (I like Berlitz). People appreciate your effort and respond accordingly. Vienna is much bigger, you'll probably spend more time outside. I liked Prague better, though a heat wave on my June visit to Vienna may account for some of this, not a problem you'll have in January.

Posted by
290 posts

Just a reminder that Prague is extremely cold in January with rain & snow. Average high is 33 degrees F & average low is 22, with only about 7 hrs of daylight. Please be sure to bring layers of clothing (I like Chili's thermal wear), sturdy water/slip resistant shoes/boots, hat, scarf, gloves. Sites will be on reduced winter hours. It's really not for everyone, but I like it. It's way less crowded after all the New Year's holiday makers leave.

Posted by
73 posts

Yes, Dick, I believe we just had a little moment over in The North: ) I'm so psyched to be hearing from other travelersI love the enthusiasm that people have for certain cities and locations and it gears me up for my trip. Also, this is my first trip to Europe so I'm gathering as much information as I can! Thanks for the insight into Prague. I'm wising I had about twelve more weeks to spend travelling around! I'm looking for a hostel to stay in in Prague and welcome recommendations. I hear sleeping in Prague can be rather expensive...does that translate to food and entry fees as well? From the research I've done (assuming my conversion math is correct) a lot of the tourist sites don't seem to be terribly pricey.

Posted by
2740 posts

Prague is inexpensive for lodging and food, especially if one does not eat directly on the Old Town Square. If you read through this board, and also look at the suggestions added to Reader Feedback under Guidebooks, Prague and the Czech Republic, restaurants,you will find many inexpensive small restaurants recommended.

Posted by
73 posts

Thanks, Larry, that helps a lot! I'll be sure to check all that out. I love wandering around to find fun places to eat, but I imagine in Prague I'm going to be too overwhelmed by the language for a while!

Posted by
2740 posts

I had feared that also, but most places have English versions of their menus. If you then study a good map (I recommend Borch's Prague map, it's not only incredibly detailed including trams lines and stops but it's also laminate thus virtually indestructible) you will learn various key words that will help you get around. Having that map will be of great use if you take trams as at each stop the routes and times are listed out, and if the route has been changed due to construction you will be able to figure out where it's going via your map. Yes, the Slavic languages are killers as they do not relate at all to English/romance language roots. But almost all the service industry knows English. When you get deep into the Czech countryside, that's where you will find less English ability of the people. Or, also, when you deal with older workers as under the Soviets (pre-1989) English was not taught in schools.
AS for restaurants, some of the best meals will be at small places that are in essence pubs but offer a small menu also. We had a couple great dinners that way, just passing places, seeing what was offered, and going in.

Posted by
14507 posts

Hi, I would assume that in Prague if you saw "welcome" signs in German and English on restaurants, as I saw in Budapest, these places will have an English menu.

Posted by
17916 posts

You are not going to find many places in Europe that are better geared for tourists than is Prague (that is actually not a positive thing). Don't worry about the menus. If they aren't in English they will find someone to read it to you if necessary. If you do the usual tourist circuit the overwhelming majority of those that you meet will speak English. If you get off the beaten path a little the majority of those under 30 will speak some or a lot of English. Remember you are going to a continent where the majority of the people speak several languages. The joke goes, that if you speak three languages you are trilingual; two languages you are bilingual; one language you are American.

Posted by
73 posts

Thanks everyone this has all been swell! In not Prague, we are also considering Bratislava or Budapest. I don't know if you all have been to either of those and if one is recommended over the other.

Posted by
2740 posts

Budapest generates incredible debate here as to which is the best place to visit--Budapest or Prague.
We loved them both, for different reasons. Budapest is worth several days. Its food is incredible. It is less expensive than Prague. Prague's architecture is better (in our opinion). Several days is minimum to get all that it has to offer.

Posted by
17916 posts

If you have the opportunity to see Prague or Vienna or Budapest you should go. You will learn more about the world and about yourself. If you go to http://budapestflat.shutterfly.com/fivedaysinbudapest you will find on the right hand side a pdf file that gives my take on he three cities. Sorry its too long to put here. Let me know if it helps. If you decide to visit my favorite city let me know and I will hook you up with all the help I can.

Posted by
9571 posts

Sarah my estimation is that Prague is uncommonly beautiful, an exquisite jewel (but packed, I mean packed, with tourists yes, even in the cold of winter. I was there last in early December a few years back and couldn't believe how jammed it was. . . I can't imagine what it's like in the summer). Budapest, by contrast, is so ALIVE and real. And also very beautiful, especially the view of the Danube, bridges, and castle illuminated at night. And to be honest, I love being in both of them in the cold of winter. There's nowhere better to need to go inside and warm up with a coffee and cake (Budapest) or a beer-that's-a-meal (Prague). Or to visit the traditional baths or duck in for a world-class concert. . . . . Sigh. . . .

Posted by
9571 posts

But to be honest, you can give Bratislava a miss. If you had longer in the region, or it wasn't the middle of winter . . . But you shouldn't take days from Vienna or Budapest or Prague to see Bratislava.

Posted by
17916 posts

While in the CZ Republic I had some dizzy spells. That's particularly concerning because I have had some heart trouble in the past. I didn't want to tell my wife because she worries too much but finally I thought I needed to let her know. She scolded me and said of course I was dizzy; I had been drinking those 2 foot tall glasses of beer morning noon and night for three days. What did I expect was going to happen? You're right. Light, smooth; goes down like water. With enough of it you could almost deal with the tourist crowds in Prague.

Posted by
73 posts

Thanks for all the input! Prague is still teetering on the edge for me. I would be more than thrilled to see its beauty and all the history that is there, but I don't know how excited I am about all the tourists. My brother seems interested in Bratislava, but Budapest sounds more interesting to me, though it is further away...

Posted by
17916 posts

I've never been to Bratislava but most that I have spoken to say its a decent one or two day visit. As its 30 miles from Vienna, more or less, sounds like a good day trip from Vienna. Budapest is about 3 hours by train from Vienna and is a good 3 to 6 night visit. But i confess to being biased. Just read an article today that was about how Budapest has some of the best priced hotels in Europe. Again, i am biased.

Posted by
17916 posts

I've never been to Bratislava but most that I have spoken to say its a decent one or two day visit. As its 30 miles from Vienna, more or less, sounds like a good day trip from Vienna. Budapest is about 3 hours by train from Vienna and is a good 3 to 6 night visit. But i confess to being biased. Just read an article today that was about how Budapest has some of the best priced hotels in Europe. Again, i am biased.

Posted by
9571 posts

They might be known globally for their pilsners (Plzen being a Czech town, after all!), but I can assure you I've enjoyed many a beautiful dark brown beer there over the years. Makes me feel cozy just thinking about it!

Posted by
81 posts

We were in Prague for 3 days right after Christmas in 2010. It was during a very heavy snowy period and frigid temps. I don't know if it was about 25 the whole time we were there. It was fabulous despite the weather! It is so beautiful with snow (though the sidewalks were slippery). It was crowded but not miserably so. We had everything we needed from Rick's book. Didn't see it mentioned, but if you enjoy art, the Mucha Museum is worth a visit. We only had one waiter try to scam us with our change at lunch. Have fun!

Posted by
118 posts

i spent four nights in prague back in may. i slept on a botel (a boat that is a hotel, just in case you are unaware). i was reallllllllly excited to do this. once i got there, i realized it was better in my mind than in reality. there were no screens on the windows and there were lots of mosquitos. i didnt eat in any restaurants. breakfast was at the hotel, lunch was a cliff bar (brought a box with me) and dinner was usually purchased at a supermarket. things i did: walked around foreverrrrrrrrrr. its so beautiful there. this was also my first real trip to europe so just the "IM IN EUROPE" factor, added to being in prague, kept me busy forever. i took a train to kutna hora to see the sedlec ossuary took the furnicular up to petrin tower. then walked down in a rainstorm and stopped and looked up and saw a rainbow over prague! it was so beautiful and unexpected! took like fifty pictures of the fred and ginger building. walked across the charles bridge every morning at sunrise i may or may not have cursed out any tourist who jumped right into my pictures of the john nepomuk statue went to the castle went to the zyzkov television tower (skip this one) rode the trams a bunch just to get acclimated went to the astronomical clock tower i wish i would have gone to ardrspach-teplice but now i have a reason to go back.

Posted by
1 posts

I was in Prague 4 years ago at Christmas, it was a great time to visit. I would suggest visiting Terezin for a day. If you like history, it will be a very powerful day.

Posted by
65 posts

Hi - We just returned from a trip to Prague, Vienna and Budapest. It all went well and we had not trouble ordering or getting along in English. Everyone seemed friendly and we had no problems. I really enjoyed riding the Metro(subway)in all three cities, right on time and easy to use. The signs and rolling stock on the metro in Vienna were especially impressive. Not so much in Budapest. Bill

Posted by
73 posts

Thanks everyone! It looks like we are going to have to take Vienna off the list (heartbreaking) but we will still be going to Prague, so I appreciate all the ideas and stories!

Posted by
2 posts

I'm a Texan currently in Prague on a residency as musical director with the Prague Shakespeare Festival and an ardent fan of this amazing city. Some very good advice in this thread. It's cold and wet in January, but there is more of an "outdoor" culture here than we're used to in the US, so people are always out doing things, walking, etc. You can eat well for cheaply if you avoid the obvious tourist places and eat where the locals do. Lunch specials are the way to go for a main meal of the day for well under $10. Lots of English spoken here and many restaurants have separate English language menus or translations. You don't need to worry much about crime as long as you keep an eye on your purse/wallet in bars and take obvious precautions against pickpockets in public places. Make a point of crossing the river to have a beer in the Letna Biergarten in a beautiful public park with the best view in the city. History? Tour the massive fortress complex and park at Vysehrad for free and take advantage of the superior subway/tram system that will get you anywhere for $1.30 or so. Make sure you catch the changing of the guard ceremony at Prague Castle. Walk around the neighborhoods and marvel at what must have been a "full employment" program for sculptors in the days of the Empire (and do bring your camera). Make sure you visit the site of the Black Madonna in the Old Town where there used to be a chapter house for the Knights Templar. I'm constantly amazed at statues, busts, architecture and graphics (a lot of the buildings are painted) that I've walked by dozens of times but missed. Every walk is an adventure. I was in Budapest after last year's tour closed and enjoyed the city enough to want to return, but Prague wins out in my humble opinion. Feel free to message me if you need specific answers to specific questions. I'm here until mid November.

Posted by
65 posts

Hi Sarah,
We (two couples) were in Prague September 19-23. We enjoyed it very much, we stayed in an apartment in the old town. The apartment owner even had a person meet us at the airport and bring us in for a resaonable fee. We enjoyed the food and the beer and exploring Prague. It was fun to ride the subway and the trams. For me, three nights in a city are enough to get a good feel for the city and see the highlights. Of course we follow Rick Steves' guidebooks all the way! Best, Bill