We are headed to Istanbul in a few weeks and will be visiting Chora Church and the city walls. We've read reports that the neighborhood might be unsafe. Any experience with this? Also, is this area hard to find? It seems like the bus that stops at Edirnekapi is close by.
The Chora Church is a "must see" but I can't give you information on getting there as we were on the RS 7 Day Istanbul Tour and it was one of the only times we used a tour bus. The area surrounding the church did not seem unsafe but I do remember our guide mentioning it was difficult to find...maybe you should consider a taxi. The taxis are not that expensive. As for the city walls, this is an area that might be unsafe. We did the RS walking tour but of course, there is safety in numbers. We walked through the Roma neighborhood and it was interesting and we did come upon some men sitting outside a tavern playing their version of Rummikub. They wanted us to sit down and play a game with them..not too threatening. We also went to the Greek Orthodox Church and met the Patriarch. You might defer the safety issue to someone working at your hotel in Istanbul and I'm sure they can give you
advise about Chora Church also.
We visited Istanbul in 2008 and visited the Chora Church - it's a bit off the beaten path. We took the city bus. People were helpful in telling us where to get off the bus and once we got off, we had some difficulty finding the church but we got directions from locals on the street and eventually found it. We walked around the neighborhood. It seemed like a working class neighborhood and we didn't feel unsafe. The church is absolutely worth a visit and I agree that a taxi might be easier.
There are definitely neighborhoods abutting the walls that are questionable. I would ask for advice at your hotels as to where to go and where to give a miss. Personally, I don't find the old walls to be that memorable in a city full of much more striking tourist sights. Chora Church (or Kariye Muzesi or Kariye Camii, as it will be called by most Turks) is a real must-see. The neighborhood of Edirnekapi is working class but completely safe, in my opinion. While there, be sure to make a reservation at Asitane restaurant, next door to the church. It's an upscale restaurant that prides itself on authentic recipes from the sultan's kitchens. I can't speak to how authentic the dishes are, but they are really delicious and unlike anything else you are likely to eat in Istanbul.
Cincinnati is more dangerous than the city walls section in Instanbul. btw - Instanbul has the lowest crime of any major city. Sometimes safe and unsafe is based on ones comfort level. Major tourists areas in Rome, Paris, etc. have far higher crime rates. The city walls are in an area of Istanbul that is not as well kept up as (aka poorer than) other sections of the city. The city walls are within walking distance from the Chora Church. You might want to consider arranging for a local guide to save time and bridge any language barrier. Edwin
Went to Chora Church and the city walls today. From the Eminonu bus station, took the 32 bus to Edirnekapi. The buses have screens at the front that tell the names of the upcoming stops, and then the current bus stop. So that was easy. Then we saw a sign pointing the way to Chora Church (Kariye Muzesi) and easily found it. We even trekked our way to the Church of Pammakaristos (Fethiye Camii) easily from Chora (not in Rick Steves book). Then we walked along the walls. I really enjoyed the walking around the neighborhoods through total non-tourist areas. It was a great view into the life of a local. All in all, we were able to find things easier than I thought, and the neighborhood was safe. The worst thing that happened was a boy followed us for awhile thinking he was leading us to our destination, for a fee, of course. Eventually we were able to shake him, but he was persistent. My husband loves Byzantine history, so these three sites were all very exciting to him. For the average traveler, the Chora Church is worth a visit, but maybe not the walls and the other church. Also, we ate lunch at Asitane. Superb, upscale dining. Our favorite meal in Istanbul so far.
You can catch bus number 32 from the bus 'plaza' at Galata bridge. Buy tickets to go and return from the kiosk (looks like a small plywood booth at the side of the bus plaza...3 TL each way). Get off at the Edirnekapi stop (you'll see the old city walls). Walk down the hill on the main street where you just got off the bus. Turn left at the first cross street and it will take you right to the church. The neighborhood is safe and people are quite helpful. Returning to the Galata bridge bus terminal, take the 32 for Eminonu. Approaching Eminonu, the bus takes a slightly different route, crossing the Golden Horn, making a loop on the opposite side, and recrossing the water via the Galata bridge. Don't worry though, the last stop is at the same bus plaza where you boarded. There is a great view from atop the city walls nearby. Also, if you need it, there is a public WC in the park just across the street from the Edirnekapi bus stop. (attended; costs .75 TL; not spotless, but better than most public toilets I've seen elsewhere).
Just about anywhere in Istanbul is safer than any USA city. The Chora Church was worth the visit and the walls nothing special. The walk from the walls down to the golden horn went through some really old neighborhoods and seemed safe.
The Chora Church is well worth the visit. I went there on a Rick Steves tour, and afterwards we walked all through the poorer areas of the city but it didn't feel at all unsafe; in fact I doubt the tour guide, Mert, would have taken us there if it was. I've since returned to Istanbul on my own and feel very safe there, even at night. Certainly far safer than many cities in the UK and the US (I traveled the US for many years).
Same as Maggie - will return when I can.
Chora Church is so beautiful and well worth the visit. I spent two hours admiring this lovely building. I visited in 2010 by taking a bus from Eminönü. I got the directions from Rick Steve's book. It is a short walk from the bus stop.