How long in Istanbul?

Michael, Since you are intrigued enough by Istanbul to consider being able to fill most of your time there, then trust your own instincts about this. I too can find things to do there that can fill any amount of time that I can spend there. Fascinating Cappadocia, IMO, can easily fill 3-4 days. A 12-day trip, spent just between these two, would be very pleasant indeed! I would fly into IST and connect straight through to Cappadocia on arrival (Day 1). Then spend the first 2 full days with pre-arranged private tours - this way, you get an easing-in start and maximize your time. Schedule an afternoon flight into Istanbul on Day 4 (the morning of which can be scheduled for a last-minute balloon ride). Spend the rest of your time in Istanbul. You can easily arrange this part with a local reputable agency based in Cappadocia, like Rock Valley Travel (send your e-mail "att'n to" the owner Atacan or his lovely wife Nalan). This part can actually be very reasonably priced. Whatever you do, pack lightly when you go - you can't help it but pick up lovely, inexpensive stuff in Istanbul, even though you may not be a shopper! ;-)

While Istanbul is wonderful and has lots to see, I wouldn't spend 12 days there without seeing other parts of the country. I also feel this way about other major cities, so others who prefer "slow travel" will disagree. You can "hit the highlights" of Istanbul in 5 or 6 days, even at a non-rushed pace (2-3 days if you did rush), and then you are starting on secondary sights. So, if you took out 3 days for a trip to Capadoccia, and a day for a trip to Ephesus (for instance) that still leaves (accounting for time lost to internal travel) 6-7 days for Istanbul, which is nice.

We spent 5 nights there last spring and never crossed over the Galata Bridge to the modern side there was so much to see and do. We did take the ferry over to the Asian side on Friday when the large market is on. We also did nearly the full day journey up to see the edge of the Black Sea. I'm with others who say 5-6 days is enough for Istanbul and that you should venture out a couple other days. We will next time. We stayed in the old town area, Sultanhamet, and easily walked to most of the famous sights. Check out Istanbul Eats for a great eating adventure in the old town, kinda pricey, but it gave us confidence to return and prowl around the back streets, shopping and eating where the locals shop and eat. Istanbul is now in a tie with Paris for our favorite city worldwide.

The US embassy is in Ankara not Istanbul. Unrest is not uncommon in Ankara, the capital of Turkey.

It just depends how much variety you are seeking from a trip - urban vs. more rural, cosmopolitan vs. more laid back, etc. I spent over 10 days just in Istanbul and never got bored (it's hard to get bored with a huge city of ~ 13 million - there are a lot of things to do on the European and the Asian side). As well as seeing all the major tourist spots, I hit the local neighborhoods and out of the way places that most tourists probably have no interest in -it was totally worthwhile and I was able to see local life. But to each his own. One side trip I would really recommend is Princes Islands which are within 2 hours ferry ride - you'll get a totally different, more relaxing experience without any autos on the islands. Another trip could be to Bursa (another very interesting city) - you can either take a ferry, bus, or fly there. If you have a hard time judging what it "enough", you could just play it by ear and leave to Capadoccia when you're ready - there are plenty of tours and flights to the area from Istanbul - and it's not to be missed.

if you spend 4-5 days in istanbul, 2 days in pamukkale, 2 days in ephesus, you're pretty close to the 12 days (count 1-2 days on the road). this would give you a pretty good vacation. adding capadocia might be pushing your time, but even if you don't get to see it you already have some pretty amazing places covered.

We like to spend a lot of time in cities. We go just everywhere. But some days we nod out and sleep all day at least once during a two week trip. So we have a new concept. Ta-Da. City cruises. Just as you go on a cruise and stay one one room the entire time, we do the same on our city cruise. No moving about and lots of packing and unpacking. We can do different things different days as weather permits. Bad weather-go to a museum. Great weather-walk the streets, ride public transport for hours, marathon shopping, ride the ferries, or neighborhood rambling on foot. Don in San Antonio. Traveling since 1949.

We were in Istanbul three years ago and stayed in Sultanahmet. But we stayed in two locations. Four nights in one, three nights in the other. This gave us an opportunity to explore the neighborhoods in the late afternoon and early evening and find wonderful local places for food. We are going back for several nights each in Sultanahmet, Beyoglu, and then the Asian side. I would recommend the same for you if you spend all 12 days in Istanbul. Book several locations. The first and last with easy access to the airport.
wayne iNWI