bulgaria

My experience with Bulgaria was ten years ago, so I´m not certain how valid my information still remains. I´ll agree with James on both of his points (hope my wife isn´t browsing), but I wouldn´t go so far as to call the interior a dump, especially compared to neighboring Macedonia, Serbia and Kosovo. But don´t expect a lot of charming rustic splendor in the countryside either. Unless things have greatly changed, my impression of the rural areas was of a very hard struggle to survive amongst the rotting industries and apartment complexes of the communist era. The mountain scenery on the border with Macedonia, however, is stunning.

My main memories of Sofia are that it was a well-developed, more or less clean city (in sharp contrast to the capitals of Macedonia and Kosovo!) and that the entire city seemed to be one big market. I don´t remember the exact location (somewhere to the east of the Nevsky cathedral), but there was a huge outdoor market along a closed-off pedestrian street. Everything you could possibly want and lots of junk you wouldn´t want seemed to be available here, from CDs, clothes, candy, fruits, iron-working equipment, meat, cheese, electronics, communist and Nazi era propaganda, etc. I got the impression that a lot of the merchandise `fell off the back of a truck´.

Finally- the pepper and yogurt based cuisine of this country is one of Europe´s best kept secrets.

I was in Bulgaria twice. Last time 8 years ago. I consider Bulgaria the country with a great tourist potential. However it's a little difficult for independent tourist especially outside big cities. They are using cyrilic alphabet and not too many people speak English. It was little easier for me because I can speak some Russian therefore I can also read cyrilic alphabet. Quite many people in Bulgaria can speak Russian certainly more than English. It seems to me that drivers in Bulgaria drive like madmen. We went through the agency and had our driver and car and also a guide to hike through Rila and Pirin mountains. 14 days with all that plus accommodation, meals and transport cost us 800 US$ per person. Not bad. But that was 8 years ago. Go and see Rila monastery (Rilski monastir), Bansko, Kovachevitsa, Melnik, Rozhenski monastery. All of it has traditional bulgarian village architecture. I also know (but haven't been there) about Koprivshtitsa. They have a big folklife festival every five years (one day I want to go there) and it will be this year August 6,7,8. For someone who is into folklife, Bulgarian folk songs are some of the most beautiful. Many years ago (1981) I was also on Black Sea shore in Slnchev Bryag (Sunny Beach); better translation probably would be Sunshine Coast and I must agree with others that even then there were beautiful girls there but I don't think that this information is too important for Annette. Very close to Sunny Beach (I walked there on the beach about 1 - 2 hours) is little town of Nessebar. It's on a peninsula and has a traditional architecture. I am sure that if you do your homework you will find many other little towns and villages worth visiting. Certainly would be helpful if you learn little Bulgarian or at least learn cyrilic alphabet so you can read signs. All the places I mentioned you can find on Google.

I suspect that things have changed a great deal in the past eight to ten years in terms of tourism. Bulgaria is definitely a hot destination for European tourists these days. I would check out tourism boards with more European users, who can probably give you more up-to-date information.

Since Rick now does a Bulgarian tour, I would guess that the countryside isn't a "dump." You don't get repeat tour business by taking people to disappointing places.

"I found it rather charming, not as dour as you'd imagine a former Communist country would be." Agree with that statement. It has a 19th century elegance that reminds you of Paris, if less well maintained.

I don't think Sofia is that much of a 'busy city' compared to western European cities. I found it rather charming, not as dour as you'd imagine a former Communist country would be. I spent a few days there last year, my host drove us across the country and the main highway between the major cities (Sofia, Plovdiv etc) seemed quite good but I remember the roads in the less populated areas were less so. The highways are signposted in cyrillic and english. In summer, loads of vacationing Europeans descend on the country especially the Black Sea coast, so they've developed tourism infrastructure but don't expect western European norms yet - private enterprise has only been around for two decades. Language might be a problem but the people are generally warm. Food is great - fresh, cheap, delicious. New, fancier restaurants have sprung up in Sofia and other 'touristy' cities like the ones on the Black Sea coast, eg. Bourgas, Sozopol. I'd say, do as much research as you can, it's definitely worth a visit, parts of the country are very appealing indeed. The Rila monastery, outside Sofia, is a must. And some of the Orthodox churches are breathtakingly lovely. The Bulgarians seem to still be a very devout people.