Budapest & Prague adventures - trip report

We decided to leave Prague earlier and we spent a night in Brno, which was more calm and very pretty too. In Prague we stayed near the Castle in a small pension called the Spendlyn Mlyn, it was very nice, as we had a big bedroom with a nice view from the window. There was a good restaurant downstairs and a few bars around. The staff was very helpful and we had delicious breakfasts, although the coffee wasn't the best I've ever had. The only annoying thing was, that outside the building all night there were drunk tourists making constant noise, but you have that everywhere in Prague, as it's packed with these kind of people. Now days I think cheap bear makes everyone travel to Prague, it's a pity cause it takes away a tremendous bit of charm that the Czech capital gives... We enjoyed though the Staropramen brewery and it's restaurant and also did a day trip to Kutna Hora, which was nice.
In advance I heard from others that there where tons of people but we never thought it would be so bad. All in all as I said we left earlier and went to Brno, where we stayed in a small hotel, which wasn't anything special just adequate. The town is smaller than Prague but also has lots to do and see, the fortress of Spielberk and the view from there was awesome. We adored a bar called U Malinki and also the restaurant which is just next to the town hall /I forgot the name/. We ate there even twice I think. We planned to stop in Bratislava for an afternoon, but the receptionist at the hotel in Brno convinced us not to, he said there's not much to see there and besides the train connection wouldn't work out well. So we skipped it.

Hungary was the highlight of our trip, although we were expecting Prague to be the runner up... Previously when we spent our first night there we didn't see much, just ate downstairs in the building we stayed in. We had a big Goulash (we loved the Hungarian kitchen so much!). Accommodation wise we rented a small apartment (the King's Court) from Marton, who operates the budapesting.com in Budapest.
The flat we stayed at is a nicely renovated old apartment with high sealing and huge doors...
The accommodation was good value for the money we paid, I really recommend it. They don't provide breakfast, but the building had a shop and restaurants downstairs where we could eat and buy stuff to prepare at home. We had a kitchen and our own bathroom. We really felt like locals shopping in the store downstairs.. ;) Marton picked us up and delivered us to the airport by car. He also provided us plenty of information on where to go what to see and directed us there on the map he gave. We followed his recommendations and we ate great meals at the restaurant called Menza /www.menza.co.hu/ and Paprika, and we wanted to try Sain Jupat also, but we did not have the time for it. We paid much less for dining in Budapest than in Prague, but I think that's because we visited more touristy places in Prague /we just followed the guide books/.

We wanted to spend a night at the countryside, so we did the Balaton Tour from their site. We were taken around by car, we saw a lot during the 1,5 day we spent at the lake. Few places I remember: Tihany, Heviz, Fured, Keszthely...
I think the Tihany Peninsula was one of the most beautiful places we visited on our trip. I think it's a must, to see the view from the monastery, with the blue lake and green hills all around you, it was amazing.
The village where we stayed the night was not far from Tihany, I can't remember the name, but it was Marton's grandparent's house. There was a big storm that night, so it was quite scary, but we survived (I have to say we had horrible weather the entire time on our trip).
It was very easy to get around in Budapest, the public transportation in Budapest was one of the best I‘ve experienced! We did all the main attractions and also had time for Szentendre also. The best things were the Saint Stephen's Cathedral and the House of Parliament, but we enjoyed the Grand Market too. Relaxing in the Szecenyi Bath was amazing, although we felt a bit too touristy again. Generally I assume Budapest is more spread out so it dosen’t feel so crowded, except near some of the main attractions.
I think these two countries have suffered a lot in their late history, but we could feel the pulse and development in every corner. The quality of services were great in all the places we visited, maybe the language was a bit of problem sometimes, but as we spoke German too, we could handle these situations! We wish to go back in a few years time, maybe when we turn 60! I hope it helps you and thanks for all the useful posts we read prior to our departure!

Glad you were able to experience the baths in Budapest despite bad weather. We were there last October and also went to Prague. I agree with you regarding the crowds in Prague.Lots of pushing and people walking on your heels. It is a beautiful city but I did not find the people to be friendly. The money was a bit confusing and clerks tended to get angry and impatient when I had to take time to figure out the money. We did not have enough time for Kutna Hora.

We took RS Eastern Europe tour in 2008. We thought Prague was overrun with tourists and would not hurry back. However, we really enjoyed Budapest and would go back there in a minute. Happy Travels

I agree with you as well about Prague being way to overun with tourists to a point that it takes away from the beauty of it. Budapest was great and the people were way friendlier!

I was wondering also, when Prague became so touristy. We talked with friends since we got back and asked them about their trip back in the 90's and they said back then it was still nothing like that. I think in Budapest there are just as many tourists as in Prague, just as the downtown area is more spread out, you don't feel it that way...

Enjoyed your post Peter. Very interesting. I hope to visit Hungary next year or the year after.

We did Prague-Cesky Krumlov- Vienna-Budapest. All were great. The Red Chair hotel in Prague is very central and affordable and the staff was great. It really pays off to stay in the center of town. We stayed at Hotel arcadie in CK which is a very nice hotel but a bit expensive, but it was nice to have a big giant tub to soak in and a beautiful view. In Vienna we stayed a the Schweizer pension, which did the trick and was pretty central. You must go to the Wine Gardens (Heurigen)- very fun. The best deal was in Budapest with Marton @ www.budapesting.com. Marton and Peter give good recommendations, the location is off the beaten path but still central. We payed 30 E a night for a very nice room and shared bathroom and the first night we had the place to ourselves. Also the access to the washer was great after traveling for 2 weeks. A great trip all around.

Love reading the trip report and comments.
In Prague, we stayed at RS's recommendation Dum u velké boty (House at the Big Boot), which is across the river from all the congestion by perhaps 3 blocks. The hotel owner Jan is very generous with their time and offers a good breakfast with very good coffee. Rooms are individually decorated and spotless. Staying there gave us a much better impression of the city than in the congested area.

I thought the food in Budapest was great; we liked the Soul Cafe very much and thought our meals there were comparable to NYC or Chicago for a fraction of the price.
Still, Prague was much less in cost than Amsterdam or Paris. We too used one of Marton's Budapest apartments (Franciscan Palace) and it had a great location and was nice to spread out after days on the road.

Melissa, could you share with us where is the Soul Cafe exactly? I couldn't google it out...

Peter, Soul Cafe is in Budapest on Raday Utica 11-13, a large outdoor dining area on both sides of the pedestrian street. There's also an indoor room. Phone number is 217-6986, and their card says www.soulcafe.hu .
There are lots of restaurants on the Rick recommended street.
We had bruschetta, zucchini tower, seared duck livers with rocket salad, pork bites,roasted camembert cheese, the best goulash, roast leg of lamb, giant stuffed with ricotta/parmesan/spinach shells in a cream sauce, grilled vegies with sesame seeds and balsamic sauce in a tortilla-like bowl,raspberry soup, pepper crusted pork loin on a sweetpotato polenta bed.... when you read this, be advised we were with 2 teenage boys and we ate there twice in three nights.
I second what you wrote about the cities and the cooking, too!

Thanks for the tip! Soul Cafe was really a spot on!

Very good report.

Someone maybe knows the answer for my question:
What is there to see on the southern shore of Lake Balaton?
I'm returning to Italy from Budapest after the Formula 1 this Summer and would stop there for a day or two.

Forget about the Southern shores of Lake Balaton, it is not much to see there. Rather go for the north!!

We stopped at Siofok to see the old villas, it has been nice and also the view of Tihany from the south was great too. But otherwise we also prefer the Northern Shores.

bump

We plan to visit Budapest, Prague and Krakow or Vienna at the beginning of next year and currently reading through the threads! If anyone can give us info on which is a better choice - Krakow or Vienna, that would be very helpful. We like history, but I guess both places have a lot of historical sights ;)

bump - lovely trip report

great info