Where to stay before and after Bernina Express?

Maria,

• "BE leaves next morning around 8:30" - no need to take that train. There are trains every hour, and you see the same mountains out of the window. The only difference is if you take the regular trains, you need to change en route, i.e. get off the train for 10 minutes.
• Times on the SBB website: https://www.sbb.ch/en/
• "Should I just go directly to Chur to spend the night," - Yes, skip Zürich. There are hourly trains direct from Zürich airport to Chur.
• "* So I can overnight in Milan, or one of 3 towns on Lake Como....Bellano, Varenna, or Lecco.*". You go through Bellano, Varenna and Lecco on the train line from Tirano to Milan, so those are good choices, better than big city Milan.
• "This would be in April." - then get booking the hotels. Only 5 week!

Two years ago we flew into Zurich on our way to Venice, specifically to take the train over Bernina Pass. After landing at Zurich, we took the train as far as Samedan, the village before Pontresina ( and after Chur). This was a good choice for us; a small scenic village with nice mountain views. We actually spent two nights there so we could have a full day for hiking.

The next day we rode a regional train (not the named Bernina Express) over the pass and down to Tirano. This was a good choice, because the train was so empty we could freely move from one side of the car to the other to get the best views.

At Tirano we changed to an Italian train and went to Varenna, where we had reservations for the night. Next day we traveled Varenna to Milan to Venice. I would do it the same way the next time. But Chur might be an OK place to spend the night as well, especially if you want the whole "Bernina Express" experience in one day.

Thank you for the details and your experiences. Chris F, I plan ahead....this is April 2020 :-)
As I am reading, I am getting the impression people almost prefer to recommend the local train. I will admit, I wasn't aware there was a more frequent alternative. All I previously had was a name of a beautiful train route and the information from seat61 on the Bernina Express. If the regular trains run the same route, then I have more research to do then. It is a little difficult getting it form posts, as people use 'Bernina Express' and "Bernina Route' interchangably at times, so it is confusing. The thought of staying further in the mountains has appeal. Let me see what I come up with.
Thanks again.

I try to always write "Bernina Route", to emphasise it is a rail line. And, like all rail lines in Switzerland, it has at least one train per hour. The "Bernina Express" is an extra, tourist-orientated train which goes from Chur to Tirano. The normal trains require at least one change en route.

This is the website of the "Rhätische Bahn", the railway company that runs this (and other) lines in SE Switzerland: https://www.rhb.ch/en/home
There is a link to the Bernina Express page. There are other good routes to explore. Stopping off somewhere is a good plan.

Coming from a country with few train options, there is always such a learning curve for Europe...and I tend to just see it as a means of transport. But I have learned there are different lines with interesting and older gauge and propulsion methods...as well as scenic vs regular....so I have learned more today. I am happy to know I have options. I think what will determine is the flight arrival time and how much time I can carve out of my itinerary for this segment.
Looking at historical data, it looks like sunset in Chur and environs early April is almost 8pm, so if I have a flight that arrives by Noon, and I head out directly to Samedan, will I be able to see enough (recognizing the sun will be below mountains before sun set)?
Also, Rome2rio mentions 2 routes to Samaden - via Chur or via Landquart. Is the Chur - Samedan section preferable?
Otherwise, I would stick with going only as far as Chur for the night.
Thanks.

Here is a map of the Swiss railway network:

https://www.swissrailways.com/sites/default/files/sts-gb-m-15-web_vorlage_0.pdf

You want the route Landquart---Chur--- Thusis--- Filisur---Bever---Samedan ( or Pontresina, the next stop).

Thinkmof it as going counter-clockwise around the loop you can see on the map. The famous Landwasser Viaduct is after Filisur and well worth seeing.

Between Filisur and Bever the train not only crosses the Viaduct but does some switchbacks and a spiral tunnel ( you can see that on the map).

I will check the travel time for you and be right back. Or you can look on bahn.de or sbb.ch ( the German site is more user-friendly)

If you can get on the train leaving Zurich airport at 13:18, you can get to Samedan by the recommended route at 16:45, with two changes, Zuring main station, and Chur.

If you miss that one, are trains on the same route at 14:18 and 15:18, arriving in Samedan at 17:45 or 18:45 respectively.

The clockwise route via Klosters and Davis is marginally faster, like 3-15 minutes faster depending on the connections. That is a "distinction without a difference" in my view, especially since younwould miss the Viaduct going that way.

Here are some photos of the famous Landwasser Viaduct:

https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/rhaetian-railways-landwasser-viaduct.html

The curve is sharp enough that if you sit in the back car you can photograph most of the train ahead of you, as well as the Viaduct. The photo is through the window, but that just makes it more interesting to me. Sit on the right hand side of the train by the window.

Thanks very much for the further details.
Though I use Rome2Rio for initial planning and looking at options, I do then work in more detail with the specific provider's websites. Sometimes we don't know them all, however. I would certainly use the bahn or sbb for specific scheduling and purchases.
I appreciate knowing that I should go via Chur for the more scenic viaduct and switchbacks. The map helps see the stations and route better. Thank you. Would you know what the blue highlighted names means?...and what is a half fare card?
I can see the value of the regular train for the purposes of making independent stops and plans. I think I will do that rather than the Bernina Express.

Looking at the map, and considering the switchbacks, I am actually thinking to overnight in Filisur so I will have had a good sleep and be fresh for the next scenic section.
Also, if I am traveling Good Friday or Easter Sunday - will that affect train schedules significantly? If planning goes correctly, I would be landing in Zurich morning of Good Friday so train to Filisur same day.
Thank you again for all the input.

Maria,
"blue highlighted names" Assuming you mean the SBB Swiss rail lines map Lola listed (click here), I can't see any blue highlighted names. Can you give an example?

"half fare card" - This is a card you can buy, that allows the holder to buy all tickets for transport in Switzerland at half price (same as children's' price). Tourist version cost CHF 120 for one month.
Details here: https://www.sbb.ch/en/leisure-holidays/travel-in-switzerland/international-guests/swiss-halffare-card.html
So, if your tickets are going to add up to more than CHF 240, a Half Fare Card pays off.

"Good Friday or Easter Sunday" - Public holidays have a Sunday service, no differences. A Sunday service is nearly the same as the other 6 days of the week, hourly or better on all routes. What is missing on a Sunday are extra rush-hour services (Mon-Fri or Mon-Sat). The SBB website will list the correct trains for any date.

Hi ChrisF, Lola had sent a link to the Swiss railway route map (above). It has some names highlighted (blue? Grey?) For example, Thusis & Tiefencastel are highlighted, but Filisur and Preda are not.
Thanks for explaining the half fare and Holiday schedules. I'll keep that in mind.

Maria, you've confused me.
I keep on staring at the Swiss rail map, and I cant see any highlighting on the names Thusis, Tiefencastel as against Filisur and Preda. All have the same general grey mountain shading. Perhaps I need glasses.

If it is any help, here is a network map for the RhB (Rhätische Bahn, local rail company). Unlike the all-Switzerland map it shows all stations, and each coloured line is an hourly route, so you can see where the trains from each place go, and where you have to change trains.
Here: https://www.rhb.ch/fileadmin/user_upload/redaktion/Home_Marketing/Service___Souvenirs/Streckennetz/linienplan_A2_2018.pdf

Hmmm. Maybe it's the platform I opened it in rather than your eyes. I am on my phone now so will check on home computer later. Sounds like it is irrelevant, though.

I am going to be different than everyone else. I loved the Bernina Express. The actual train. I liked the large panoramic windows, I liked that the train stopped to allow people to get off and take photos, I liked that I didn't have to worry about not having a seat. (While unlikely, unreserved local trains can fill up.)

When you arrive at ZRH, you can get a train from the airport to Chur without changing. It will take about 2.5 hours. I suggest going there and getting a good night sleep to combat jet lag. Less stress that trying to get a very early train from Zurich to Chur.

The next day, take the Bernina Express to Tirano. From Tirano grab a train to Varenna. EVen if it's just for one night, you will get to see Lake Como. It is beautiful.

From Varenna, take the train to Milan where you can change to one to either Vicenza or Padua.

FrankII, thanks for the alternate opinion. Always good to have options. In my latest rework of the itinerary, I gave myself 2 nights in Varenna, so the longer time spent on the train is feasible. Thanks.