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Two Weeks - Scenic Trains and Sights - Feedback Appreciated!

Hi All...
Here's my most recent iteration for a two week trip that allows for the scenic train trips as well as visiting areas that allow hikes and seeing the sights. For my wife and I, it's our first visit to Switzerland. My itinerary roughly following the RS two-week trip by train though we decided to bypass Appenzell, and instead of staying in Lugano we added a couple of nights at Lake Como (we visited last year and really enjoyed it!). Finally, we originally wanted to visit Annecy (below Lake Geneva) on this trip but decided to save that for another trip. So, I have two nights open to add somewhere and I'm not sure where is best. Our air travel dates are fixed: Arrive Zurich 2:30 PM 3-Sep and depart Zurich 7:15 AM 17-Sep.
About us: Mid 60's, good health, pack light (one roll aboard and one daypack each), enjoy moderate hiking, mountain scenery, local culture, and we gravitate towards smaller towns vs the urban feel (unless museums and such draw us in). This trip originated as a bucket list item of riding the famous Switzerland trains, but after a little research we realized there's so much more.
Here's what I have so far - this list only contains the towns and train logistics. At this stage I'm looking for advice to change out the two Annecy nights we had after Zamatt. Is it worthwhile to add time/nights before Zermatt? More time in the Lauterbrunnen Valley area? Add a night in Bern? I hope to lock in my dates in each town and book lodging soon (hoping to average $200/night though I have doubts).
Sep 3 2:30 PM Arrival to Zurich Train to Luzern
Sep 3-4 2 nights Luzern Gotthard Panorama Express to Lugano, then the bus to Menaggio on Lake Como
Sep 5-6 2 nights Menaggio Ferry to Varenna, train to Turano, Bernina Express Scenic train to Pontresina
Sep 7-8 2 nights Pontresina Glacier Express train to Zermatt
Sep 9-10 2 nights Zermatt Train, via Lausanne and Geneva, to Annecy
Sep 11-12 [Originally 2 nights in Annecy] Train to Montreux, then Golden Pass Express train to Interlaken, then a short train to Lauterbrunnen, then the cogwheel train to Murren?
Sep 13-15 3 nights Lauterbrunnen Valley (Murren?) Cogwheel to Lauterbrunnen, train to Interlaken, train to Bern (stop and explore Bern), then train to Zurich late in the afternoon
Sep 16 1 night Zurich Stay close to airport
Sep 17 7:15 AM Departure from Zurich

I appreciate the feedback in advance. My assumption is that there's likely something great to fill our time where ever we stay but am interested in insights from folks who have been there and done it already. We're super excited and anxious to firm up our plans. After I get the towns locked in (Murren looks expensive!?), I'm sure I'll have follow on questions.

Thanks for reading and for any guidance you can provide!
Sam

Posted by
7 posts

I will add that lodging recommendations are also very welcome and appreciated. Unfortunately, I've gotten a bit of a late start but we're going regardless! Thanks!

Posted by
805 posts

I’d recommend slowing down a bit, as you’re trying to fit too much in. In order to savor the places, hike, etc you need time. I’d recommend something like this:

Zurich airport to Lake Como 3 nights > Pontresina 3 Nights > Zermatt 2 Nights > BO 5 nights > leave BO early AM for a day in Luzern & then on to the Zurich Airport 1 night

Posted by
6185 posts

A suggestion/ revision to wanderweg's itinerary, which I do like-

Milan > Varenna, Lake Como (3 nights, at least)
Varenna >Tirano, Italy - catch the Bernina Express regional train > Pontressina ( 2 nights)
Pontressina > Berner Oberland ( max time here- 5 nights.)
Xxxxxx
Lucerne - ( 3 nights) an easy 1+ hour commute to the Zurich airport. The train goes directly into the Zurich airport.

I'm not a fan of Lugano- too many Rolex stores.

The Bernina Express route is more spectacular , and not as long, as proposed. Use the regional trains for more schedule flexibility, less crowded, no seat reservations needed.

I'd eliminate two night stays- that equals just one full day. Minimum should be three nights anywhere, except maybe Pontressina, because you're going to the BO.

Switzerland is expensive, but the experience is world-class. Get a hotel with a breakfast buffet, and dinner at the Coop store. Sit outside in the evening with your bottle of Swiss Pinot ( not bad) and eat your Coop dinner as a picnic. ( And - the Swiss aren't really known for their cuisine. There, I said it out loud!)

If you have the RS Guide book, use the hotel recommendations included. Also research with booking.com, but book directly for the best price.

Mountain weather is unpredictable. You need more time in order to be flexible and adjust to weather conditions.

You're going at a wonderful time of year. Enjoy!

Posted by
805 posts

Their flights are fixed roundtrip Zurich and departure is 7:15 am so it’s not realistic to stay in Luzern the night before when they need to be at the airport by 5 am.

Posted by
7 posts

Thanks so much to Wanderweg and Pat for the feedback! To clarify the Italy side of things... we were in Italy last year (flew in/out of Milan) and discovered Lake Como (stayed in Varenna). When I noticed the RS two week Switzerland agenda was spending a night in Lugano and then taking the (Bernina) bus around Lake Como to Tirano, I thought we may as well spend a day on Lake Como and then take the train from Varenna to Tirano to catch the Bernina Express train to Pontresina. For this Switzerland trip, we're only thinking of Lake Como as a convenient stopover point instead of Lugano and we only want to spend one day (two nights).

With the goal of taking scenic train routes we're thinking about the Gotthard Panoramic from Luzern to Lugano. Since our initial arrival to Zurich is 2:30 PM, I don't think it's feasible to get all the way to Lake Como (Menaggio) that same day - especially if we take the boat ride across the lake and the slower Gotthard Panoramic train route. Would you recommend time in Luzern on the front end before heading down to Lake Como and then Pontresina?

I really appreciate your thoughts on staying longer in each location - that make a lot of sense. Luzern is the wild card since I only have 14 nights. Assuming we stick with 2 in Menaggio at Lake Como (which we could sacrifice), then 3 Pontresina, 3 Zermatt, 5 OB, and 1 Zurich, we total 14 nights without Luzern. If we spend time in Luzern and bypass Lake Como (not staying in Lugano either), do you think it's still feasible to catch both the Gotthard and Bernina scenic trains before leaving Pontresina and heading for Zermatt?

I hope this makes sense and please let me know if it doesn't. I already booked a hotel for our last night. It's close to the airport and they run a quick shuttle to the airport so that's easy.

Thanks again!

Posted by
805 posts

I don’t ever find Lake Como convenient to a Switzerland trip. It always fits in awkwardly in my opinion because of the connections and if you’ve already seen it I think it’s worthwhile to spend your time doing a route that allows you to see these new things you haven’t experienced that fit in better to your plans.

What if you did something like this?

Zurich airport to Luzern 3 nights > BO 5 nights > Zermatt 2 nights > Glacier/Bernina to Pontresina 3 Nights (day trip to Tirano to complete the Bernina if you want) > Zurich Airport 1 night

Posted by
6185 posts

Adding to wanderweg's suggestion-
Coming out of Covid, were we in Pontressina, but couldn't cross into Italy because of the Covid restrictions, which were changing almost daily. So we rode the Bernina Express regional train from Pontressina to the last Swiss stop, waiting 18 minutes , and rode it back. Total trip was under four hours, and it was delightful. On the regional trains, which aren't crowded, you can jump from either side of the train as the scenery changes. The windows open, for great, non-glare shots. And the regional trains (on the same tracks as the panoramic trains) have so many more schedule options. The scenery is so spectacular that seeing it twice was exciting. And the sunlight changes and the angles change. My photos were spectacular . It was a morning's adventure. ( We took a snack .)
Actually, in Pontressina, we used a "stop on demand" at Souvas to board, so didn't have to walk down the hill to the Pontressina train station. Souvas is a charming tiny stop, at which you push a button, alerting the train to stop. (Don't worry, there will be others there. ) It's a five minute walk from town, into the cedar-smelling woods.

The Zurich airport is a ten minute train ride from Zurich old town. I'd suggest staying in the old town, which altho not as charming as Lucerne, has more charm than an airport hotel.

I know this is a lot of work planning at this stage, but your trip will be so fantastic, it's all worth it!

Posted by
7 posts

Again - this is super helpful - thank you so much for helping me think through things.

We don't have a problem skipping Lake Como for the same reasons Wanderweg mentioned (or Lugano), and I like the idea of simply doing a day trip back/forth on the Bernina route using the local train as Pat recommends. With that strategy in mind, I may not have a logistical reason to ride the Gotthard Panorama (Luzern to Lugano). I'll do a little reading but perhaps that's not terrible and we'd certainly have time for a boat ride on Lake Luzern if we stay there 3 nights. I'll also look up a train route from Pontresina back to Zurich on the 16th. I'll also check out old town Zurich for our last afternoon/evening. As long as the train to the airport runs early in the AM, I agree it sounds more fun than staying by the airport.

Plans are getting clearer now - I really appreciate the guidance! I'll sure I'll soon have questions about hotels and local activities :-).

FYI - we're planning to get the 15 day Swiss Travel Pass primarily for convenience. I've read there may be other ticketing strategies that could save money? I'm not sure how much savings is possible or if it's worth sacrificing the convenience of the pass. I'm interested to hear if anyone has strong thoughts one way or the other.

Many thanks!
Sam

Posted by
6185 posts

I always pay for the convenience of the STP. No buying tickets, just walk on the train, boat, etc. The Pass covers you up to Murren and Wengen, then you'll need to explore other options, such as the BO Pass.
There's no advantage to buying the passes this early. I do like to get the pass ahead of time, as then you have a digital copy, in addition to printing the paper hard copy, so no fears of losing your Pass.
The half-fare card meets most folks needs, but I'll always go for convenience of the STP. Also, I find additional uses once I'm in country.
The passes are confusing, so you have alot of company , and if you Search U-tube, there are several videos explaining the options. Once you make your decision, don't look back. ( wink emoji)
Oh, the Smithsonian channel has a "Mighty Trains" TV series, which includes shows on the various Swiss scenic trains. It gives the history and building of these routes in the early 1900's, before computer assisted math. Also, the maintenance required, as those precocious Swiss brains do plan for all types of weather . I had wondered if riding the Bernina Express route would be as great as the TV shows , but the reality was magnificent!
It's fun helping someone who is reflecting on the advice. So many times posters are given extensive help, and they never respond back, just disappear....
Keep your questions coming.

Posted by
7 posts

Ha-ha for sure I can and will!

My next big decision is lodging and first and foremost is where to stay in the OB area - especially if I'm increasing my visit there to five nights (which sounds very worthwhile since we like the mountains, hiking, scenery, etc). Originally I targeted Murren (smaller village, no cars, local culture, etc.). However, many of the lodging choices are booked and what's left seemed pricey though I'll check again with my revised dates. I did notice that lodging choices open up if we target the larger towns like Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, though I assume we'd be sacrificing the smaller village feel. As mentioned earlier we originally budgeted about $250/night overall, hoping to save in some areas and likely spend more in others. Typically we like clean, comfortable, quiet types of places so we don't gravitate toward the hostels but we don't need top end places either. A room with a view is a bonus of course. We're on foot so I also target relatively decent proximity to the train station.

I'll go searching for lodging in Zermatt, Luzern, Pontresina, old town Zurich, and then OB after we choose the town. If anyone has strong "gotta book this one if you can get it" recommendations, we're all ears!

Posted by
7 posts

Btw - thanks for the advice on the travel pass. You've confirmed my thoughts and the direction we were leaning. I'll check out the train videos too if I can find them.

Posted by
805 posts

$250 is a bit of a stretch in the BO. You'll find more if you up your budget to maybe $300. I'd recommend Wengen. It's still car free like Murren, but a bit easier to get to/from for your exploration and there is a lot more lodging there than in Murren. When you do 5 nights it also opens up the possibility of chalet apartments instead of hotels. You typically get more for your money with a chalet apartment than a hotel. Check out chalet.myswitzerland.com, e-domizil, interhome and the local to Wengen rental companies - Alpine Chalet Services, Wengen Apartments & Wengen Rentals.

If you can, try to get a south facing balcony in Wengen for the views and be mindful of not getting too far downhill or uphill from the train station, so that you're not having to hike to/from your place for trips, shopping, restaurants, etc.

Lauterbrunnen & Grindelwald are also options if you find a place you love there, but note you may end up needing to take a bus to the train station in either place if you end up further out from the center to stretch your budget. If I was picking between those 2 I'd probably lean towards the outskirts of Grindelwald, as the views are going to be more open and expansive if you do find a place with a view, while Lauterbrunnen is in a steep sided valley so the sun sets quickly there and the traffic is very congested into one through road in town.

Posted by
7 posts

Fantastic - thank you! Great advice on the chalets - I'll check it out!

Posted by
6185 posts

Lucerne- Hotel des Alpes is an RS fav, and a view of the Chapel Bridge is the best.

Regarding costs in the BO, if the hotel is including breakfast for two, figure that in.