Switzerland + Northern Italy: 3 Weeks

I say you have done very well for a first-time Eurotrip planner. I do have a couple of sugggestions, based on your questions>

The “long day” in your itinerary is the Glacier Express from Zermatt to Pontresina. That is 7.5 hours on the train if you take the Glacier Express. I cannot see people of your age enjoying that ride, Even if you ride the regional trains, it can take awhile, and you have to make several changes. I view l the Glacier Express as a touristy option for older folks who are doing a “grand tour” of Switzerland without hiking: instead admiring the scenery from the window of a train. I have stood on a platform at a station along the tracks, about halfway into the journey to Zermatt, where the Glacier Express passes without stopping, but is proceeding slowly because of the steep grade. People I could see in the windows looked either sleepy or bored.

Given that, and what you say about originally wishing to visit Lugano instead of Varenna, I have an alternate suggestion: take the Gotthard Panorama Espress train + boat combination from Luzern to Lugano, or the Treno Gottardo train that connects Luzern with Locarno, changing at Bellinzona to end at Lugano instead of Locarno.

https://www.sbb.ch/en/leisure-holidays/holidays-switzerland/panorama-trips/gotthard-panorama-express.html

https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/experiences/treno-gottardo/

The trains use the same tracks over the historic Gotthard pass route; the difference is that the Gotthard Panorama Ex[ress has the boat component, is all in First class, and goes only once a day. The Treno Gottardo is a regional train that departs Luzern every 2 hours. You can add a boat component from Luzern to Fluelen if you like, and pick up the train there. We did this last September and it was a big hit with everyone in my family.

I know the Bernina Espress, which you can ride from Pontresina to Tirano and one to Varenna, gets lots of love on this forum. But that popularity began well before the Treno Gottardo and Gotthard Panorama Express existed. We have done both and enjoyed both. But the Bernina Express requires travel way to the east, while the Gotthard Pass options depart from Luzern. If the latter better fits your itinerary, then it is a good choice. You can see the difference on this Swiss rail map.

http://www.projectmapping.co.uk/Europe%20World/Resources/Swiss%20Rail%20map.pdf

This would work best with a re-ordering of your itinerary, so that you head to Zermatt first, then Montreux, Golden Pass to Mürren, and Golden Pass route to Luzern. Zurich airport to Zermatt is a 3.5 hour journey with one change on the way. If you are starting from Appenzell, and or want to break up that journey a bit, I recommend an overnight in Bern, a delightful city right on the way. The swim in the river should still be fine in September. My husband did it on Sept. 15 this year and loved it.

Re: appenzell-
Taking the gondola up nearby Ebenalp to Aescher berggasthaus https://aescher.ch/en/ for lunch (you can hike around there also) is a great day if you end up in the Appenzell area. We’ve done it twice. We love that area but have family nearby so that is an added reason we go. (next visit we will start in Germany - fly into Munich - visit lake constance area/ Ebenalp and then on to Berner oberland)
I’m guessing less tourists than BO- very beautiful, lots of paragliders and cows! Appenzell the town you can easily get a good feel in half a day (or a few hours.)

Hi Lola,

Thanks so much for the advice! I was on the fence about the eight-hour train between Zermatt and Pontresina, but since I'd read a lot on the forum about the Bernina Express being go-to's for Switzerland I left it on. Good to know there are other options for scenic trains like the Treno Gottardo for a fraction of the time, as we'd love to use the extra time for more exploring if given the extra time!

With that in mind, I have two revision ideas for the itinerary. They both start in Appenzell (2 nights) then Bern (2 nights) for Days 1-4 and then from Days 10-21 hitting Murren (4 nights), Lucerne (3 nights), Lugano (4 nights, plus maybe a day trip to Locarno/Bellizona) and then on to Milan (1 night) for departure. My question is what order would be best between the following.

• Version A: Take the train from Bern to Lausanne/Montreux (2 nights), then to Zermatt (2 nights), then take a regular train north to Murren
• Version B: Take the train from Bern to Zermatt (2 nights), then to Lausanne/Montreux (2 nights), then take the Golden Pass to Murren

They're basically the same, but in Version A the total combined time spent on trains is around 2 hours shorter than in Version B, but in Version B you get to take the Golden Pass from Montreux to Murren. Is the Golden Pass worth the extra few hours?

Also, I know you mentioned an overnight in Bern — do you think it's worth staying an extra night to see the city? Or would I be better off instead of 2 nights in Bern, spending 3 nights in the Lausanne/Montreux area?

Hi mggtravel,

Will definitely keep Appenzell on the list, then! I love less touristy gems, and the Berggasthaus Aescher looks gorgeous. Thanks for the advice, and I hope that you have a lovely trip to Germany/Switzerland. :)

Bern is cute, but you can see it all in half a day. I would save it as an optional, poor-weather day trip from Mürren. Milan is more fun for 20-somethings (even if you don't do proper nightlife) and you could happily spend 2-3 nights there.

Don’t add in Bern. 8+ hotels in 3 weeks is going to be exhausting. Cut something out and do 3-5 night stays in each location. The temptation is of course to “see it all” but sometimes slowing down allows you to see more and actually enjoy it. Plus a lot of mountain locations rely on weather for true enjoyment and going in/out in a day means there is a chance you go on a bad weather day and see nothing. Switzerland is not a large country, but trying to cover it all while also adding in Lake Como is a lot. Maybe something like this…

Day 1: Arrive in Zurich, train to Appenzell
Day 2: Appenzell
Day 3: To Lucerne
Day 4: Lucerne
Day 5: Lucerne
Day 6: Lucerne
Day 7: To Murren
Day 8: Murren
Day 9: Murren
Day 10: Murren
Day 11: Murren
Day 12: Golden Pass Express to Montreux (no to Lausanne)
Day 13: Montreux (Chateau de Chillon/Boat Trip)
Day 14: Montreux (Boat Trip to Yvoire or explore wine terraces)
Day 15: To Zermatt
Day 16: Zermatt
Day 17: Zermatt
Day 18: Varenna
Day 19: Varenna
Day 20: Varenna
Day 21: Varenna to Milan

Or if eastern Switzerland (St. Moritz/Pontresina) is really important to you, then consider cutting out Appenzell, Montreux, Zermatt or Lake Como. Something needs to go.