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Seeking hiking advice in Berner Oberland for older solo female

Hello all,

I am planning a trip to the Berner Oberland in September, and I have already received so much help from reading new and old posts on this forum.

I am working on hikes now, and the plethora of hiking trails and lifts is really confusing. I can understand why so many folks request help for their particular situation.

My situation: I am an older (yikes, 70) female, traveling solo, visiting the Swiss Alps for the first time. I love hiking, walking, nature, small towns and cultural festivals. I am reasonably fit with decent stamina, have good equipment and a fair amount of experience with moderate trails and a few difficult ones, but I’ve never hiked on my own.

On the down side, my balance isn’t as great as it used to be, and my depth perception isn’t great either. I don’t have vertigo (First Cliff Walk looks fun!) but I quake at slopes or narrow exposed pathways ending in thousand foot drops. I do not like steep, slippery downhills. So while I am embracing this solo challenge, I am lacking in Alpine-level confidence.

Itinerary: Lots of hiking and walks. I will be sleeping in Wengen Sept. 21 - 29. I am hoping for five full days of hiking and exploring, with a day for the Wengen Chästeilet and a day for the Ballenberg Museum and Lake Brienz. I definitely want to do the Rick Steves Top Hits list of North Face Trail, Männlichen - Kleine Scheidegg, Panorama Loop at Schynige Platte, and the Lauterbrunnen Valley. First Cliff Walk and that area. I’m ambivalent about going to Jungfraujoch or Schilthorn.

My sweet spot for hikes is about 5 miles and 1000 ft. elevation, which I could do every day with enough left in the tank for the rest of the day. More elevation is ok, but not every day. I do like uphill with my down.

I did a lot of research on AllTrails, and while I have a better idea now of where things are and how trails and lifts link up, I really can’t figure out exactly if some of the moderate or even hard trails would be ok for me, or how to best put them together. If I have to travel an hour and a half to a hike, I want to stay in the area and explore.

The trail research is really hard on my eyes, and so I am asking for your help. I need to make this trip easy for myself. I want to be safe, no risks. While I don’t like crowded trails, I don’t want to be alone on some lonely trail. I’m in for more slow travel and enjoyment than bucket list check-offs, and I’m not much of an early riser. But I plan to savor this experience rain or shine.

(Or snow? I was planning on just my Oboz Katabatic LT Lows, not waterproof. Do I need waterproof? I am going on to two weeks in southern Germany and France and I think waterproof will be too warm. The hikers I have have been fine for rain, but snow is different.)

I would be very grateful for your suggested trail combinations, advice and encouragement.

Posted by
2674 posts

I hope you will get Laurel and Ric Barton's book Walking in Switzerland's Berner Oberland. I used the book four years ago, when I was 77, and plan to use the new edition on a 2027 trip. I'm a solo traveler. The Bartons rate their hikes 1, 2 or 3, depending on difficulty, give detailed instructions about accessing the hikes and pertinent information about what you'll encounter along the way. I think it would be really helpful to you.

And no, I don't think you need waterproof hikers. I wear an Oboz low style and I was fine.

Happy planning!

Posted by
88 posts

Thank you, Janet, that book sounds great. I will definitely give it a try. And Kudos to you for still getting out there!

Thanks for the thumbs-up for the Oboz as well.

Posted by
535 posts

Hi Ann, I hike on my own all the time - early 60’s female - I have never had a problem. The hikes on your list are very popular and you will certainly not be alone on the trail.

Things I always do when hiking alone

  • Tell someone where I am going
  • Use the Switzerland Mobility app to see my exact location as I hike (more on this below)
  • Use MeteoSwiss weather app to know at least what they think the weather will be…it can change very quickly, be aware of that
  • I also have the Rega app on my phone (rescue helicopter) when activated it will alert them to your exact location, if needed. Not that I think you will need to use it, but just FYI. Sometimes it helps to relieve anxiety just to know that you can be found in an emergency.

https://www.rega.ch/en/our-missions/this-is-how-we-help-you/rega-app/regas-emergency-app

I really can’t figure out exactly if some of the moderate or even hard
trails would be ok for me, or how to best put them together.

Here is how I would do it:

First, check the weather, all other ideas should be subject to this. Hike on the best weather days and do Ballenberg and Lake Brienz on less favourable days.

Lauterbrunnen valley - this is a flat, easy walk, sometimes on gravel path, mostly on paved roads. Do it when you need an easier day and/or mountains are socked in, etc.

Männlichen - Kleine Scheidegg hike - universally regarded as easy, this would be a good hike to start with. If you find this one ‘just right’ then the remaining two on your list will be too difficult.

Adding in: Grütschalp - Winteregg -Mürren
Slightly more uphill than the above hike, but still very easy. Wide path, beautiful views, can stop at Winteregg or even cut the hike short there by taking the train to Mürren.

North Face Trail- more difficult than the previous hikes

If you hike from Mürren up to Allmendhubel the hike is
Ascent 390 m (1,279 ft)
Descent 133 m

Many people hike it in the opposite direction, but just remember that you will need to do 390 m down in that case, and that can be difficult on the knees and also, as you know, balance is more difficult to maintain when going downhill.

I often see people missing the route. There are many hiking paths and roads in the area. When you come to a sign post showing various hikes look for the small green square that says North Face Trail. You might have to walk around the post to see it.

Here is a link to the hike on the Mürren tourism website.

https://muerren.swiss/en/maps/summer-maps/hikes.html#area=60825263&cat=Hiking%20Trail&filter=r-fullyTranslatedLangus-,r-onlyOpened-,sb-sortedBy-0&ipd=23432070&wt=Mürren%20(Switzerland)%0A60825263&zc=12,7.87771,46.55083

Panorama Weg Schynige Platte

This one might be a bit too exposed for your liking - there is a section where you are close to the edge and it goes way, way down. There is really no danger, but there is still the feeling of being on the edge that you might not enjoy.

Here it is on Switzerland Mobility - an official source for Switzerland’s hiking routes. It isn’t user generated or crowdsourced, the information is accurate, up to date and has great photos of the hike that will help you to see what the trail is like, how close to the edge you will be and how steep the drop is beside you.

They rate the hike easy as far as the amount of effort needed, and medium in that it is a mountain hiking trail...so not just a walk in the park. :-)

6 km
Ascent 340 m (1,115 ft)
Descent 340 m 

https://schweizmobil.ch/en/hiking-in-switzerland/route-345

Posted by
88 posts

SwissNomad, thank you ever so much for all of this information! I really appreciate your taking the time to directly address my concerns and lay out a safety plan for me. I will follow it.

The Männlichen - Kleine Scheidegg hike to start is a good suggestion since I will still be adjusting to the time change.

Can the Grütschalp - Wintweregg - Mürren hike be combined with another hike? Maybe Northface or ? I actually have very good knees, so downhill is not a problem if it's not really steep and slippery. It's hard to figure out a full day. I did 6+ miles and 1500 ft. up and down last week, and it's not a stretch. Can you suggest an optimal combination?

I am taking a more careful look at the Panorama Weg. I appreciate that advice.

And do you have any quick hints for using the schweizmobil app? I had downloaded it from a suggestion I read earlier, but am mystified how to progress.

Ann

Posted by
1 posts

I think you’ve chosen a wonderful area for a first Swiss Alps trip, and your approach of prioritizing safety and enjoying the scenery rather than trying to “check off” every famous hike is exactly right.

Based on what you’ve described, I would focus on the easier panoramic routes around Wengen, Männlichen, Kleine Scheidegg, and Lauterbrunnen. The Männlichen–Kleine Scheidegg trail should be a particularly good fit: beautiful views, well-established, and generally more comfortable than some of the more exposed Alpine routes. The North Face Trail is another good choice, although I would take it slowly and check the current trail conditions before setting out.

For Schynige Platte, the Panorama Trail is spectacular, but I would pay close attention to the sections with exposure. If you encounter a narrow or uncomfortable section, there is absolutely no shame in turning around. At 70 and traveling solo, knowing your limits is a strength, not a limitation.

For the Lauterbrunnen Valley, I’d actually recommend treating it as a leisurely walking day rather than trying to make it a strenuous hike. You can enjoy the waterfalls, villages, meadows, and scenery at your own pace, and there are plenty of opportunities to stop for coffee or lunch.

I’d also avoid stacking several demanding elevation days together. Your “around 5 miles and 1,000 feet” sweet spot sounds very sensible. Perhaps alternate a moderate hiking day with a gentler walking/sightseeing day. That will leave you much more energy to enjoy Wengen and the surrounding villages.

Regarding First Cliff Walk, since you already know that heights and exposed edges bother you, I’d treat it as optional rather than something you have to conquer. You can enjoy the First area without forcing yourself onto a section that makes you uncomfortable.

I would also keep Jungfraujoch and Schilthorn optional. Neither is essential for having an amazing Berner Oberland experience. With nine nights in Wengen, you have the luxury of letting the weather and your energy level determine what you do each day.

For your footwear, I would be more concerned about traction and comfort than waterproofing. September can bring very different conditions in the mountains. A non-waterproof hiking shoe can be perfectly comfortable in ordinary conditions, but if the forecast calls for persistent rain, wet trails, or an early-season snowfall at higher elevations, I would reconsider. Whatever footwear you bring, make sure the sole has good grip, particularly because you mentioned balance and slippery descents as concerns.

One final suggestion: don’t underestimate the value of asking locally each morning. Your accommodation in Wengen, the tourist office, or the lift staff can give you current information about trail conditions, closures, snow, and which routes are busy. Conditions in the Alps can change considerably even when the weather looks fine in the valley.

And please don’t feel that being a solo 70-year-old hiker means you have to prove anything. Your plan sounds thoughtful, experienced, and realistic. Take your time, use trekking poles if you are comfortable with them, keep your phone charged, check the weather before heading higher, and turn around whenever a trail feels wrong.

Honestly, your “slow travel and enjoyment” philosophy sounds like an excellent way to experience the Berner Oberland. I hope you have a fantastic trip—Wengen in September should give you plenty of opportunities to simply stop, look around, and appreciate where you are.

Posted by
1440 posts

North Face hike isn’t at all dangerous and it’s much better if you ride the Allmendhubel up and go counter clockwise. Just make sure to follow an actual route map, as it’s not very well sign posted and many people miss the cut offs and end up just walking down the road. There are small green squares on the yellow hiking trail signs that help sometimes, but unfortunately not all of the time. It’s a fantastic hike when done correctly, and a good but “could be much better” hike if you miss your turns or just follow signs to Mürren and end up on the road.

Grutschalp > Mürren is a walk, not a hike, in my opinion, as it’s a wide gravel service road along the railroad. A much better alternative is the Mountain View Trail from Allmendhubel to Winteregg or Grutschalp (either is good and similar stats).

Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg is also a walk. To make it better and longer, continue on to Wengernalp and even all the way to Allmend if you’re up for it and catch the train from there back to Wengen.

The Panorama from SP does have ridge drop offs but they all have metal guard fencing to avoid falling off. If that makes you uncomfortable, then you can still go up to SP and walk amidst the Alpine Garden.

First Cliff Walk is SO extremely touristy. There is now a small cliff walk area at Schynige Platte and up at First I’d recommend First to Grosse Scheidegg via the Marmot Trail if you want to get away from the insane crowds.

Posted by
4165 posts

Something that hasn't been mentioned yet: Get sticks. They help with balance, and make it easier on your knees. You can rent them here if you want.

The tourist office has walking maps. The trails are very well signposted here, so you can often change your plans, extend your walk if you feel fitter than you thought, or return earlier if you don't. Just know the categories. Easy paths are marked in yellow on the signs, whereas more demanding ones are marked with red/white stripes.

Enjoy your stay. My 80 yo mother did the Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg walk when she was here. You do not have to break any records. I you want to take a break, and just sit on a bench enjoying the landscape just do so :-)

Posted by
535 posts

Wow, wonderful! You will certainly be able to do these hikes and find them very enjoyable!

Can the Grütschalp - Winteregg - Mürren hike be combined with another
hike?

Absolutely! All of the hiking paths in Switzerland are interconnected all over the country. That is why I suggest people take a look at Switzerland Mobility - at the very least it helps you realise just how vast a network of hiking trails there are.

I suggested this hike because it is of a similar difficulty to the Männlichen one, and also, I love it. You won’t break a sweat, but you will see some beautiful scenery. If you want a bigger challenge then you can do the Mountain View Trail, another favourite of mine.

https://schweizmobil.ch/en/hiking-in-switzerland/route-351

Same start location, but a lot more uphill, lovely views, you will end at Allmendhubel.

Other ways you can lengthen the North Face Trail - hike the entire loop, rather than use the Allmendhubel funicular and/or once in Mürren continue on down to Gimmelwald along the paved road, this part is definitely not difficult, but it is scenic.

When I go to a new location for the first time I have some hikes in mind that I think I might do and then take a quick visit to the tourist info office and ask the person there what they recommend for me. What I like about this is 1) they know the area and also the current conditions and 2) they can see me - unlike online interactions - I am right there in front of them, grey hair and all, and I ask them “do you think I can do this trail”. So far I have always received a pretty honest, and in the end correct, assessment from these local experts. 



How to use the Switzerland Mobility app

  • Top right are some icons, the first one allows you to change the contents of the map
  • Choose: Summer and Hiking in Switzerland
  • You will see a lot of green lines with numbers, these are the major hiking routes
  • Zoom in or use the second icon, the magnifying glass to find a specific location
  • Eg. type in #351, click on Mountain View Trail, now you see it in the app

All of the red lines are the mountain hiking trails and the yellow lines are the regular hiking trails. As WengenK pointed out, the two different kinds of hikes are marked with red/white markings or yellow markings along the trail.

When you allow the app to know your location, it will show you as a little dot as you walk along the trail. This can be helpful when you come to a crossroads and want to be sure of your way, or if you just wonder how much longer you have to walk. :-)

It will also show you if there are any trail closures or detours and why. If you zoom out enough you are sure to see some of these in other locations (red circle with a person in the middle of it).

Posted by
535 posts

Grutschalp > Mürren is a walk, not a hike, in my opinion, as it’s a wide gravel service road along the railroad.

A hike is defined as: : a long walk especially for pleasure or exercise, some dictionaries add that it is 'in the country'.

This hike is not along the rail lines, but rather above them. It is only at the end, just before you enter Mürren that the two line up together. As you know, since you recommend some of them, many of the Swiss Wanderwege are service roads for either the entire route, or a part of it.