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Seeking hiking advice in Berner Oberland for older solo female

Hello all,

I am planning a trip to the Berner Oberland in September, and I have already received so much help from reading new and old posts on this forum.

I am working on hikes now, and the plethora of hiking trails and lifts is really confusing. I can understand why so many folks request help for their particular situation.

My situation: I am an older (yikes, 70) female, traveling solo, visiting the Swiss Alps for the first time. I love hiking, walking, nature, small towns and cultural festivals. I am reasonably fit with decent stamina, have good equipment and a fair amount of experience with moderate trails and a few difficult ones, but I’ve never hiked on my own.

On the down side, my balance isn’t as great as it used to be, and my depth perception isn’t great either. I don’t have vertigo (First Cliff Walk looks fun!) but I quake at slopes or narrow exposed pathways ending in thousand foot drops. I do not like steep, slippery downhills. So while I am embracing this solo challenge, I am lacking in Alpine-level confidence.

Itinerary: Lots of hiking and walks. I will be sleeping in Wengen Sept. 21 - 29. I am hoping for five full days of hiking and exploring, with a day for the Wengen Chästeilet and a day for the Ballenberg Museum and Lake Brienz. I definitely want to do the Rick Steves Top Hits list of North Face Trail, Männlichen - Kleine Scheidegg, Panorama Loop at Schynige Platte, and the Lauterbrunnen Valley. First Cliff Walk and that area. I’m ambivalent about going to Jungfraujoch or Schilthorn.

My sweet spot for hikes is about 5 miles and 1000 ft. elevation, which I could do every day with enough left in the tank for the rest of the day. More elevation is ok, but not every day. I do like uphill with my down.

I did a lot of research on AllTrails, and while I have a better idea now of where things are and how trails and lifts link up, I really can’t figure out exactly if some of the moderate or even hard trails would be ok for me, or how to best put them together. If I have to travel an hour and a half to a hike, I want to stay in the area and explore.

The trail research is really hard on my eyes, and so I am asking for your help. I need to make this trip easy for myself. I want to be safe, no risks. While I don’t like crowded trails, I don’t want to be alone on some lonely trail. I’m in for more slow travel and enjoyment than bucket list check-offs, and I’m not much of an early riser. But I plan to savor this experience rain or shine.

(Or snow? I was planning on just my Oboz Katabatic LT Lows, not waterproof. Do I need waterproof? I am going on to two weeks in southern Germany and France and I think waterproof will be too warm. The hikers I have have been fine for rain, but snow is different.)

I would be very grateful for your suggested trail combinations, advice and encouragement.

Posted by
2688 posts

I hope you will get Laurel and Ric Barton's book Walking in Switzerland's Berner Oberland. I used the book four years ago, when I was 77, and plan to use the new edition on a 2027 trip. I'm a solo traveler. The Bartons rate their hikes 1, 2 or 3, depending on difficulty, give detailed instructions about accessing the hikes and pertinent information about what you'll encounter along the way. I think it would be really helpful to you.

And no, I don't think you need waterproof hikers. I wear an Oboz low style and I was fine.

Happy planning!

Posted by
94 posts

Thank you, Janet, that book sounds great. I will definitely give it a try. And Kudos to you for still getting out there!

Thanks for the thumbs-up for the Oboz as well.

Posted by
567 posts

Hi Ann, I hike on my own all the time - early 60’s female - I have never had a problem. The hikes on your list are very popular and you will certainly not be alone on the trail.

Things I always do when hiking alone

  • Tell someone where I am going
  • Use the Switzerland Mobility app to see my exact location as I hike (more on this below)
  • Use MeteoSwiss weather app to know at least what they think the weather will be…it can change very quickly, be aware of that
  • I also have the Rega app on my phone (rescue helicopter) when activated it will alert them to your exact location, if needed. Not that I think you will need to use it, but just FYI. Sometimes it helps to relieve anxiety just to know that you can be found in an emergency.

https://www.rega.ch/en/our-missions/this-is-how-we-help-you/rega-app/regas-emergency-app

I really can’t figure out exactly if some of the moderate or even hard
trails would be ok for me, or how to best put them together.

Here is how I would do it:

First, check the weather, all other ideas should be subject to this. Hike on the best weather days and do Ballenberg and Lake Brienz on less favourable days.

Lauterbrunnen valley - this is a flat, easy walk, sometimes on gravel path, mostly on paved roads. Do it when you need an easier day and/or mountains are socked in, etc.

Männlichen - Kleine Scheidegg hike - universally regarded as easy, this would be a good hike to start with. If you find this one ‘just right’ then the remaining two on your list will be too difficult.

Adding in: Grütschalp - Winteregg -Mürren
Slightly more uphill than the above hike, but still very easy. Wide path, beautiful views, can stop at Winteregg or even cut the hike short there by taking the train to Mürren.

North Face Trail- more difficult than the previous hikes

If you hike from Mürren up to Allmendhubel the hike is
Ascent 390 m (1,279 ft)
Descent 133 m

Many people hike it in the opposite direction, but just remember that you will need to do 390 m down in that case, and that can be difficult on the knees and also, as you know, balance is more difficult to maintain when going downhill.

I often see people missing the route. There are many hiking paths and roads in the area. When you come to a sign post showing various hikes look for the small green square that says North Face Trail. You might have to walk around the post to see it.

Here is a link to the hike on the Mürren tourism website.

https://muerren.swiss/en/maps/summer-maps/hikes.html#area=60825263&cat=Hiking%20Trail&filter=r-fullyTranslatedLangus-,r-onlyOpened-,sb-sortedBy-0&ipd=23432070&wt=Mürren%20(Switzerland)%0A60825263&zc=12,7.87771,46.55083

Panorama Weg Schynige Platte

This one might be a bit too exposed for your liking - there is a section where you are close to the edge and it goes way, way down. There is really no danger, but there is still the feeling of being on the edge that you might not enjoy.

Here it is on Switzerland Mobility - an official source for Switzerland’s hiking routes. It isn’t user generated or crowdsourced, the information is accurate, up to date and has great photos of the hike that will help you to see what the trail is like, how close to the edge you will be and how steep the drop is beside you.

They rate the hike easy as far as the amount of effort needed, and medium in that it is a mountain hiking trail...so not just a walk in the park. :-)

6 km
Ascent 340 m (1,115 ft)
Descent 340 m 

https://schweizmobil.ch/en/hiking-in-switzerland/route-345

Posted by
94 posts

SwissNomad, thank you ever so much for all of this information! I really appreciate your taking the time to directly address my concerns and lay out a safety plan for me. I will follow it.

The Männlichen - Kleine Scheidegg hike to start is a good suggestion since I will still be adjusting to the time change.

Can the Grütschalp - Wintweregg - Mürren hike be combined with another hike? Maybe Northface or ? I actually have very good knees, so downhill is not a problem if it's not really steep and slippery. It's hard to figure out a full day. I did 6+ miles and 1500 ft. up and down last week, and it's not a stretch. Can you suggest an optimal combination?

I am taking a more careful look at the Panorama Weg. I appreciate that advice.

And do you have any quick hints for using the schweizmobil app? I had downloaded it from a suggestion I read earlier, but am mystified how to progress.

Ann

Posted by
1451 posts

North Face hike isn’t at all dangerous and it’s much better if you ride the Allmendhubel up and go counter clockwise. Just make sure to follow an actual route map, as it’s not very well sign posted and many people miss the cut offs and end up just walking down the road. There are small green squares on the yellow hiking trail signs that help sometimes, but unfortunately not all of the time. It’s a fantastic hike when done correctly, and a good but “could be much better” hike if you miss your turns or just follow signs to Mürren and end up on the road.

Grutschalp > Mürren is a walk, not a hike, in my opinion, as it’s a wide gravel service road along the railroad. A much better alternative is the Mountain View Trail from Allmendhubel to Winteregg or Grutschalp (either is good and similar stats).

Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg is also a walk. To make it better and longer, continue on to Wengernalp and even all the way to Allmend if you’re up for it and catch the train from there back to Wengen.

The Panorama from SP does have ridge drop offs but they all have metal guard fencing to avoid falling off. If that makes you uncomfortable, then you can still go up to SP and walk amidst the Alpine Garden.

First Cliff Walk is SO extremely touristy. There is now a small cliff walk area at Schynige Platte and up at First I’d recommend First to Grosse Scheidegg via the Marmot Trail if you want to get away from the insane crowds.

Posted by
4218 posts

Something that hasn't been mentioned yet: Get sticks. They help with balance, and make it easier on your knees. You can rent them here if you want.

The tourist office has walking maps. The trails are very well signposted here, so you can often change your plans, extend your walk if you feel fitter than you thought, or return earlier if you don't. Just know the categories. Easy paths are marked in yellow on the signs, whereas more demanding ones are marked with red/white stripes.

Enjoy your stay. My 80 yo mother did the Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg walk when she was here. You do not have to break any records. I you want to take a break, and just sit on a bench enjoying the landscape just do so :-)

Posted by
567 posts

Wow, wonderful! You will certainly be able to do these hikes and find them very enjoyable!

Can the Grütschalp - Winteregg - Mürren hike be combined with another
hike?

Absolutely! All of the hiking paths in Switzerland are interconnected all over the country. That is why I suggest people take a look at Switzerland Mobility - at the very least it helps you realise just how vast a network of hiking trails there are.

I suggested this hike because it is of a similar difficulty to the Männlichen one, and also, I love it. You won’t break a sweat, but you will see some beautiful scenery. If you want a bigger challenge then you can do the Mountain View Trail, another favourite of mine.

https://schweizmobil.ch/en/hiking-in-switzerland/route-351

Same start location, but a lot more uphill, lovely views, you will end at Allmendhubel.

Other ways you can lengthen the North Face Trail - hike the entire loop, rather than use the Allmendhubel funicular and/or once in Mürren continue on down to Gimmelwald along the paved road, this part is definitely not difficult, but it is scenic.

When I go to a new location for the first time I have some hikes in mind that I think I might do and then take a quick visit to the tourist info office and ask the person there what they recommend for me. What I like about this is 1) they know the area and also the current conditions and 2) they can see me - unlike online interactions - I am right there in front of them, grey hair and all, and I ask them “do you think I can do this trail”. So far I have always received a pretty honest, and in the end correct, assessment from these local experts. 



How to use the Switzerland Mobility app

  • Top right are some icons, the first one allows you to change the contents of the map
  • Choose: Summer and Hiking in Switzerland
  • You will see a lot of green lines with numbers, these are the major hiking routes
  • Zoom in or use the second icon, the magnifying glass to find a specific location
  • Eg. type in #351, click on Mountain View Trail, now you see it in the app

All of the red lines are the mountain hiking trails and the yellow lines are the regular hiking trails. As WengenK pointed out, the two different kinds of hikes are marked with red/white markings or yellow markings along the trail.

When you allow the app to know your location, it will show you as a little dot as you walk along the trail. This can be helpful when you come to a crossroads and want to be sure of your way, or if you just wonder how much longer you have to walk. :-)

It will also show you if there are any trail closures or detours and why. If you zoom out enough you are sure to see some of these in other locations (red circle with a person in the middle of it).

Posted by
567 posts

Grutschalp > Mürren is a walk, not a hike, in my opinion, as it’s a wide gravel service road along the railroad.

A hike is defined as: : a long walk especially for pleasure or exercise, some dictionaries add that it is 'in the country'.

This hike is not along the rail lines, but rather above them. It is only at the end, just before you enter Mürren that the two line up together. As you know, since you recommend some of them, many of the Swiss Wanderwege are service roads for either the entire route, or a part of it.

Posted by
238 posts

I'm not sure I understand what "regular hiking trails" (yellow) means, as compared to the "mountain hiking trails" (red). I do see these red and yellow lines on the Mobility app.

Posted by
567 posts

@daisy, there is a good description with photos on this page

https://schweizmobil.ch/en/categories-of-difficulty-signalisation-wl?origin=hike

Yellow marked paths

  • Often follow wide roads, but may also be narrow, uneven paths
  • No special requirements
  • Footwear with skid-resistant soles and appropriate clothing

White/red/white paths (mountain hiking trail)

  • May lead through rough terrain
  • Most are steep and narrow and partially exposed
  • Require sure-footedness and a good head for heights
  • Hikers should be in good physical condition and know the dangers to be expected in the mountains (falling rocks, danger of slipping/falling, sudden change in weather)
  • Solid boots with skid-resistant soles and appropriate clothing are recommended

There is a third, even more difficult trail marked with blue and white….if you find yourself starting out on one those trails…turn around :-)

Posted by
94 posts

WOW, what a wealth of information I have been showered with! I am so jazzed, this is all I could hope for and more.

It will take me a while to go carefully through all of these suggestions, but a prompt and heartfelt thank you is in order. You all spent put in a lot of effort to share your expertise with me.

SKY - Many thanks for your kind, thoughtful and affirming letter. I have been on a tightrope wanting to experience all I can, but not endanger myself, and I appreciate your calming perspective. Even the easiest of hikes will be mind-blowing for me and I have to remember what a privilege it is just to be planning this trip.

Wanderweg - you must have divined my FOMO. I am glad to hear you think North Face is not dangerous. And I have been wondering if Allmendhubel to Mürren is better than the alternate route, Mũrren to Mürren. I definitely want the scenic route. Thank you for the extra tips. I really don’t want to end up unnecessarily on a service road.

I have been trying to figure out the Mountain View trail, which direction and what I should combine it with. Too much with Northface? Other options? Needs more research.

Yay, I thought going longer on the Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg might be good.

Regarding the Panorama - I am really happy to hear there are guardrails. I should be fine if there is a railing and if it’s not too narrow and hairy a trail or sloped down to an unguarded cliff.

I will take a closer look at the First area.

WengenK - Yes, I have hiking poles! They give me a lot of security going downhill, and a little help uphill. Mine fold up and can go in my daypack. I will visit the TI for help. My eyesight gets strained spending too much time trying to read the maps on my phone, and I really like a good paper map once in a while.

SwissNomad - the entire loop of the Northface trail—is that hiking up to Allmenhubel? Or hiking Murren to Mürren? I definitely need to take that walk down to Giimmelwald.

I think I will try to familiarize myself with Switzerland Mobility on my computer as it would be easier on my eyes.

I will definitely visit the TI, and let them assess me for particular trails. Maybe they can also help me with working with the Swiss Mobility app.

Thanks again to all of you!

Ann

Posted by
1010 posts

SKY - Many thanks for your kind, thoughtful and affirming letter. I have been on a tightrope wanting to experience all I can, but not endanger myself, and I appreciate your calming perspective.

Ann, I'm pretty sure SKY's response is actually Chatgpt. I'm also a solo traveler who likes to do long hikes, but doesn't want to get too far from other people, and I'll also be spending time in the Berner Oberland. I decided to see what AI would recommend when I asked a very similar question in my research. The answer you received from SKY is almost word for word the type of response I got including the compliments and reassurances. I'm not saying it isn't good advice, but I think it's only fair to know where the advice is coming from. I will say that using Chatgpt has been helpful for organizing, but I found having a good basic knowledge first is imperative since some of it's responses aren't accurate. I also fact check it's responses and occasionally find the information incorrect. I think it can be one more tool to use in addition to this and other forums, blogs, etc., but I so appreciate that there are vetted travelers on this site, people with real life experience and knowledge.

Posted by
49 posts

On the Panorama trail loop at SP, if I am interpreting your comfort level correctly, I recommend you start by going left as you look up the hill, which is clockwise. You might want to also come back the same way. No severe drop offs going the other way (right, counter clockwise), but I am wondering if you might be a bit uncomfortable in a few places.

Posted by
94 posts

Oh UGH! KRS, Thank you for letting me know the "SKY" response was chatbot. I actually actively avoid using chatbot, and it is disheartening to find AI parading around in a forum like this pretending to be a person. (But that is the essence of AI, isn't it? Pretending to be a kind, knowledgeable and helpful person while simultaneously taking over the world.) I take back everything nice I said. Go away, chatbot. Thank you for calling it out.

Posted by
94 posts

Wanderlust, I’m glad you picked up a thread on the Panoramaweg loop at SP. I had in my notes (for whatever reason) to go clockwise, but thank you for telling me that direction is more comfortable. Is it a narrow path along the edge, or does one have some room?

I’m not sure what you mean by coming back the same way. Isn’t it a loop beginning and ending at SP?

Posted by
49 posts

At the top it is fine. It is not a super narrow path, and you can keep away from the edge if you want. There is an overlook and you would not even have to walk up to it, but it is really fun because you look down on the lakes. It's kind of the best part.
Yes, it is a loop, but since you mentioned balance and depth perception issues, i am suggesting one alternative is to go up to the ridge and overlook, and then go back down the same way you came as the terrain is a little bit easier to navigate going that way, at least that's what I think. You don't really even need to decide now.You could go up to the ridge and then make a decision at that point based on your comfort level. If you were totally comfortable going up, maybe you'd be okay continuing on the loop. But if have reached your comfort level, you could decide to just turn around and go back down the way you came. The best part is looking down over the lakes and interlocken and seeing the valley, so you not would miss out by doing it that way. Have fun! I love SP.

Posted by
49 posts

For the northface trail, i recommend going up to Allmendhubel and hiking counterclockwise from there. And definitely try and fit in the paved walk between murren and gimmelwald. It is wonderful.

Posted by
94 posts

Wanderlust, thank you for the clarification on the Panoramaweg. It sounds very doable. My visual and balance issues are not severe, and I have done hikes like this in the past, but now, and alone, I need to exercise a little more caution. I won't hesitate to turn around if I don't feel comfortable. I've done that before, too.

I think Northface and then down to Gimmelwald and back would be a great day!

Posted by
567 posts

I really don’t want to end up unnecessarily on a service road.

This is definitely not a cause for concern, many hiking routes use these roads, they are not like logging roads or other access roads you might be familiar with, but rather just a way for the farmer to reach their cows and alpine barns and things like that.

If you extend the Männlichen - Kleine Scheidegg hike in the manner that Wanderweg suggests you will walk on one of these roads as well, except that this one is far more of a gravel road than the Grütschalp - Mürren one is. At any rate, it’s not something that will dampen your hiking experience, but rather a means by which the overall Swiss hiking system works, making great use of what is already there!

SwissNomad - the entire loop of the Northface trail—is that hiking up
to Allmenhubel? Or hiking Murren to Mürren?

It would be hiking Mürren to Mürren and is just a suggestion in how you can hike more if you want to. At Restaurant Suppenalp you will see a hiking signpost showing that you can hike down to Mürren. or continue on up to Allmendhubel. I usually do not extend the hike, but make my way up to Allmendhubel, eat my picnic lunch and then take the funicular down. You could even hike up to Allmendhubel and choose a different route on down to Mürren if you want to.

My preference is to hike the North Face in a clockwise manner. I prefer uphill vs downhill so I choose hikes that I can still manage when hiked like that. I love the feeling of having to work before enjoying the view. I like getting my heart rate going and pushing myself a bit.

This hike is perfect for me in that way because it is all about climbing up when I am fresh and just starting out. I sweat, my heart pounds, I stop and take in the view while I catch my breath and then at the top I get to see it all - my reward for all my hard work. I sit on the bench, take a break, have a snack and then continue along the more flat section where I am now facing the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau - the terrain is easy so I don’t have to look at my feet and can walk with my head up and I just take in the view as I go along. I can see Kleine Scheidegg in the distance and on past that to the Wetterhorn in Grindelwald. It’s beautiful! The people I meet coming along in the opposite direction (and there are a lot of them!) have all of this behind them, at their back, a few of them stop and turn around to look…others do not.

I like to hike the Mountain View Trail in the same manner. Up first, work hard, breath heavily, sweat lots - this trail has about 100 m more ascent than the North Face - then I am rewarded with an amazing view. When you begin this hike at Grütschalp you will go up, up, up, partly through forest, and then it levels off, you are walking toward Mürren have the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau before you, whenever the footing is good you can simply gaze at their beauty as you walk. These are the things that are important to me in a hike. Work hard at the beginning, enjoy the view as much and for as long as possible, end the hike.

Posted by
238 posts

Thanks for the info, SwissNomad. I also wondered whether people can actually use the app in the mountains--is there cell service?

Posted by
567 posts

I have always been able to use it, I suppose there are places without cell service, but I haven’t come across them myself.

Posted by
94 posts

SwissNomad, I know where you are coming from. I like to have a decent amount of uphill in my hikes, too, and earn that view. Also earn and appreciate the downhill afterwards.

The Northface (Mürren > Mürren) Alternate Route (as it’s called on AllTrails), going clockwise, is 4.6 mi. And about 1100 both up and down, which hits about right for me. Afterwards a pretty downhill to Gimmelwald and exploring.

Is counter-clockwise often recommended because it is easier, do you think?

And thank you for explaining about the roads. I really try to avoid roads and pavement here, but I have noticed a lot of trails in the BO looking like roads, so now I understand it. And anyway, I like walking, too!

Ann

Posted by
567 posts

Is counter-clockwise often recommended because it is easier, do you think?

In my opinion, yes, but of course there are those who argue that the views are better that way, which is why I tried to describe my experience in more detail. The truth is that you are surrounded by mountains and some of the best scenery ever! If anyone is dissatisfied with what they see on any of the hikes in the Lauterbrunnen Valley area then either they had very unfavourable weather, or they are impossible to please. :-)

The Swiss people that I know are far more concerned with the ascent - a man who is 75 will often tell me things like "my hike was 600 m (1,968 ft) this week". He means ascent, he doesn't even mention what the total descent was, that is just a necessary part of the hike, you go up and down, at least somewhat, but the overall descent is nothing to 'brag' about.

When you look at the North Face Trail on the Swiss generated websites (the Mürren tourism one, for example), they show the hike to go up from Mürren to Allmendhubel. Same with the Mountain View Trail on Switzerland Mobility - up from Grütschalp. But again, why people do things a certain way, or which is in fact better is hard to say. 'Better' in this case is not a fact, but only an opinion.

Posted by
94 posts

Thank you again for all of the great information and advice!

Posted by
1451 posts

Grutschalp to Mürren is along the rail line the entire time. I just biked it 2 days ago. It’s a gravel road that is sometimes right next to the rail and sometimes slightly above it, but always the rail within sight. That doesn’t make it bad by any means, but it takes away from it feeling like a nature hike. It’s a lovely, easy walk or bike for all ability levels and you’ll see lots of strollers and elderly enjoying it. If you want to go for a “hike”, it wouldn’t make my list. If you want a lovely walk, it’s a great option, along with Mannlichen > Kleine Scheidegg > Wengernalp - if you want a “hike”
in a similar area, the Mountain View Trail instead of Grutschalp > Mürren along the rail or the Marmot Trail from First to Grosse Scheidegg instead of Mannlichen to KS.

In terms of the Northface clockwise vs counterclockwise, the views are better walking counterclockwise, as the lovely big mountains like Breithorn, Gspaltenhorn, etc will be in front of you instead of at your back. This adds additional depth to the views, in addition to Eiger/Monch/Jungfrau. It is slightly easier starting from Allmendhubel and doing counterclockwise, but it still requires uphill and doesn’t make for a lopsided hike in terms of elevation gain/loss. I’ve done this hike atleast 20 times and biked big portions of it just as many times so I’ve analyzed the views in all directions and 100% of the time recommend counterclockwise from Allmendhubel with special attention to not missing the turn off after Schiltalp. I see so many people miss that cut off and walk down the road, which makes you miss a lovely portion of the hike.