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Recommendations for what to do after Bernina Express

I have 3 days in Switzerland from Friday, Sep 22 departing out of Zurich Monday, Sep 25. My wife and I love trains and beautiful scenery so we booked the Bernina Express from Chur to Tirano on Sep 22. Unfortunately, the morning train was sold out so we booked the afternoon train arriving in Tirano around 6PM.

We are looking for suggestions for what to do for the following 2 days. We enjoy visiting charming towns and leisurely nature walks. My concern is that Tirano doesn't seem like a particularly interesting place so I'm not sure we want to spend so much time there.

Option 1: We were initially hoping to take the Bernina Express bus to Lugano, but the next Bernina Express bus doesn't depart until Saturday afternoon. We could take a morning train to Monza and then to Lugano and arrive in Lugano around noon, spend the day exploring Lugano, and return to Zurich the following day. I am concerned that this may be too much time on trains even for us. Is this train ride scenic?

Option 2: We could take local trains back up the Bernina route, stopping along the way to explore towns or go on walks. If we choose this option, do you have any recommendations for where to get off and walk around, and where to stay Saturday night? If we choose this option, we are also wondering if it would make more sense to not go all the way to Tirano, but instead get off the Bernina Express earlier at a more charming town to stay the night Friday night.

Posted by
2320 posts

There are many scenic train routes in Switzerland. It is the ROUTE that make it scenic, not the named train (Bernina Express, Glacier Express). These routes are serviced by the fancy named trains with the panoramic cars, as well as the regular trains.

The problem is that taking the Bernina Express is great if you happen to be traveling to or from Italy. It’s not so great in you situation. Spending so much time on the train is in direct conflict with this statement: We enjoy visiting charming towns and leisurely nature walks.

With such a short trip, I would decide where you want to spend your 2 nights. Your last night should be in Lucerne or Zurich, for easier access to the airport. Then see if there is a scenic train ride to take advantage of along the way. For example, if you base in the Berner Oberland area you can travel many scenic routes: Lauterbrunnen to Kleinne Scheidigg, Schnyge Platte, Brienzer Rothorn are just a few. The difference is these trains are not an all day venture - they take to to scenic places where you can enjoy some hiking in an hour or so. Then you have time to explore other places.

Here are some other options: https://www.myswissalps.com/activities/scenictrips/train

Posted by
6899 posts

I'd probably hop off the Bernina Express in Poschiavo, have a look around, and take a regular train back to Pontresina for 2 nights. Then back to Zürich on the 24th for a final night.
Poschiavo is an interesting village, and there are many walks around Pontresina.
Stopping at Poschiavo makes you miss the Brusio spiral viaduct. There is plenty of amazing engineering along the way before Poschiavo, so I do not believe it matters much!

Posted by
4706 posts

You can ride the regional trains on the same tracks as the panoramic Bernina Express cars. You have much more flexibility with times on the regional trains- same tracks, same views, more train times. I know you have already paid, but perhaps the convenience is worth not using those tickets? Just a thought to consider.
Are you going to Lake Come, Varenna, from Tirano? I'd highly recommend going to Lake Como. I'm not a big fan of Lugano, just me.
Enjoy your beautiful travels!

Posted by
16278 posts

Another option would be to continue from Tirano to Varenna on Lake Como, and spend the night of the 22nd there. There is a train departing Tirano southbound to Varenna at 18:10, arriving in Varenna 1.5 hours later. If you miss that cone the next is at 19:08. Varenna is a tiny town with beautiful views over the lake from many of the hotels, and some short walks.

The next day, travel in late morning to Locarno (not Lugano) via Milan. The journey is 3 hours total, with the single change at Milano Centrale. Locarno offers nice reasonably-priced lakefront hotels just a block or two from the train station, such as this:

https://www.hotelgeranio.ch/en/

On the 24th, take the Treno Gottardo regional train over the scenic Gotthard Pass route to Luzern (maybe with a change at Arth-Goldau) for your last overnight. Luzern offers some nice walking on trails in the forest above town, or along the lake. You can reach the Zurich airport from Luzern in 1 hour 10 minutes, so unless your light is early in the morning, it is possible to overnight in Luzern instead.

https://unterwegs.sob.ch/de/stories/ciao-ticino-en

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Posted by
20094 posts

All the trains, whether from Lugano or Locarno will be taking the scenic route over the Alps as the Gotthard Base Tunnel is closed to passenger traffic for at least a couple of months.

Posted by
2 posts

Thanks so much for these suggestions!

Varenna does seem like a great suggestion. After reading all of your feedback, I realize that it really only makes sense to do the Bernina Express trip if we are going to take advantage of being in Italy.

1) Take the afternoon Bernina Express to Tirano as described above and transfer immediately to the 18:10 train to Varenna. Enjoy dusk / sunset views of Lake Como from the train. Spend 2 nights in Varenna and on Sunday take a boat trip across lake Como and return to Zurich from there.

2) Abort the Bernina Express plan entirely, and spend the 3 days elsewhere in Switzerland.

Posted by
2320 posts

I would abort the plan to take the Bernina Express. Spend your time in the Berner Oberland area. I recommend Wengen.

Posted by
20094 posts

I'd spend a couple of nights in Varenna. You can get back to Zurich one of three ways. Train to Monza followed by train to Zurich. Fast ferry to Como, taxi to Como S. Giovanni station, then train to Zurich. Ferry to Menaggio, bus to Lugano, train to Zurich.

All the trains to Zurich will be by the scenic route for the time being.

Posted by
1653 posts

I would take the second option. Stay a few days in Varenna, and then take a boat to Como. Plenty of trains form Como to Switzerland. Note that Como has two stations. Make sure you go to the correct one there (San Giovanni).

Posted by
4412 posts

Youtube is full of Bernina Express videos, watch some if you haven't and decide if it's really what you are looking for.

As noted, you would probably enjoy time spent in Lauterbrunnen and Murren more and you can take trains to get there.