In late October I will be traveling from Lugano to Luzern in Switzerland. I want to take the above-ground local train to enjoy the Gotthard Pass views rather than take the faster tunnel train. The local train will require a transfer at Erstfeld. Has anyone spent time in Erstfeld? It does not show up in guidebooks, but it looks pretty spectacular on Google Earth. Since I will be transferring trains anyhow, might it be worthwhile checking my suitcase and exploring this valley for a few hours or overnight? Thanks.
I have never gotten off the train in Erstfeld so cannot answer the question. But are you sure that is the “above-ground” train for both segments? The train you want ( for avoiding the deep tunnel) is the Treno Gottardo, a regional train numbered IR26. It runs hourly between Locarno ( not Lugano) and Luzern with no changes. From Lugano there are various places you can connect to it way in advance of Erstfeld, such as Bellinzona or the smaller Cadenazzo.
https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/experiences/treno-gottardo/
This website (only in German or Italian) has the schedule and also suggestions for various activities at stopovers along the way, including Bellinzona and Cadenazzo.
https://unterwegs.sob.ch/de/pages/trenogottardo
We are taking the train in the opposite direction later this month to go from Luzern to Milano. I chose to transfer in Bellinzona and have lunch there before continuing on to Milan. I looked at both Bellinzona and Cadenazzo on Google Earth and the area around the train station at Cadenazzo looked pretty bleak.
In the first year or two after the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel, local trains on the old panoramic railway did require a connection in Erstfeld, so you might be relying on outdated information perhaps?
From Lugano, you will most probably change in Bellinzona to catch the "Treno Gottardo" which uses the panoramic railway. Bellinzona has very interesting castles to visit - actually a UNESCO world heritage site!
Then, every other Treno Gottardo goes to Luzern and the rest require a transfer in Arth Goldau.
IR 26 only runs to Luzern every two hours. The other times it runs to Zurich. So every other hour you will need to change, and that will be a relatively short one in Arth Goldau.
To find this route on www.sbb.ch put "Göschenen" in as a via. This will give you the route over the old line.
Erstfeld itself does not have much of interest unless you are a railfan, in which case it is good for trainspotting.
However, the panoramic line does not run over Gotthardpass, it simply crosses the Alps at a higher altitude, between Göschenen and Airolo.