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Itinerary help requested - Bernina, Chur, Oberland, Lucerne

Hello and TIA!

We will be taking the Bernina Express (or probably a regional version of the route!) from Tirano to Chur, arriving in Switzerland June 1 2027. We are a couple in our sixties, moderately fit (not serious hikers). Enjoy small hotels/bed and breakfasts, local cuisine, generally exploring. Here are my thoughts:

Bernina Express: we get to Tirano in the morning from Varenna... I know it's cheaper to take the regional rail, but do you get the same full views? Also: do most of those trains end at St. Moritz? Not really interested in seeing St. Moritz unless you guys say it's really worth the $ (sounds a bit like Montreaux, which was more jet-setty than really suited us!).

Chur - two nights, one day (but is Chur enough of a destination or should we just stay the one night?)

Oberland - three or four nights. We stayed in Wengen a while back for three nights and really enjoyed it. We saw the Schilthorn and Mannlichen and Lauterbrunnen, but we are now interested in seeing more of the area including the Jungfrau, First, etc. I am torn: I know Grindelwald is bigger than Wengen and kind of nightlifey, which isn't our bag... but Gimmelwald seems tiny. We also considered Murren... Is Murren a good choice for three or four nights?

Lucerne - four nights. looks like there's so much to see there, and we are considering a day trip to Zermatt based on weather... suggestions as to best area to stay in, don't-miss experiences, best way to see the Matterhorn weather allowing?

From there, hubby returns home and I continue on to France!

Posted by
1476 posts

It looks like you have around 10 nights. If you really want to see the Matterhorn/Zermatt, then doing it as a day trip from Luzern is too much. That would be 7+ hours on a train with not much time in actual Zermatt to do the Gornergrat train up to the Matterhorn viewpoint. Instead, just combine the Bernina + Glacier Express trains and stay in Zermatt for a couple nights.

Honestly, to me Luzern has a lot of the same feel as Montreux in regards to it being a bustling place. If you think Grindelwald sounds too “nightlife-y” (not sure where you heard that) then you’re going to think Luzern is way more so. Perhaps you’re a better candidate for a more off the beaten path stop, such as staying in Engelberg, where you can still go to Luzern for the day if you want, but you’re staying somewhere a bit quieter and less bustling, while still having plenty to do and see. From there you can go up to Furenalp, Trubsee, etc., see the Engelberg Abbey, as well as the popular Titlis, in addition to a day trip into Luzern if you'd like.

Murren is a lovely option, but if your main desire is to go to First, Jungfraujoch, etc. then Grindelwald will be more convenient for that. Murren is an amazing base for hiking, relaxing & soaking in the views, but if you want to be going out on day trips over to that side every day, then the inconvenience may not be worth it for you. You could look for a place in Grindelwald near the terminal station to be away from the "downtown" but just know going in that it won't have the same relaxing vibe. Alternatively you could go to somewhere like Meiringen to explore Hasliberg, Rosenlaui Valley/Grosse Scheidegg, etc. for somewhere less touristy in the Berner Oberland.

Tirano > Bernina Express to Chur 1 night > Glacier Express to Zermatt 2 nights > Berner Oberland 4 nights > Engelberg 3 nights

Posted by
7344 posts

The regional trains have windows that open, making for much better pix, along with smelling that clean mountain air. Also, the regionals are usually not crowded, so you may be able to bounce across the aisle, as the scenery changes.
The regionals also have more schedule options.
The panoramic trains are sometimes hot, due to all that glass, which also causes window glare for your pix.
We were quite happy with the regional trains.

Posted by
1580 posts

The regional trains have regular rectangular windows. Yes they open, but still don't give you the field of view upward that the panoramic windows on the Bernina Express trains. Also, the BE trains have a vestibule at the end of each car that is open to the air, so you get the best of both worlds with the BE. It is more expensive, so if its just transportation take the regional. But if its an experience you're after, go for the BE.

We think Chur is underrated. We were there just overnight and wish we had stayed longer. I think you'll enjoy two nights / one full day there.

In the Bernese Oberland, Murren in the sweet spot for us between jet set Grindelwald and no-services Gimmelwald. Amazing views across the valley to the Eiger/Monch/Jungfrau.