We had two fabulous weeks in Switzerland plus three nights in Chamonix, France (in between Iceland, Italy and London), thanks to help here and elsewhere! I hope these 5 posts will be helpful for future travelers.
Our itinerary and nights from September 4: St. Moritz, 1; Zermatt, 3; Wengen, 5; Murren, 3; Bern, 1; Chamonix, 3; Geneva, 2.
TOP HIGHLIGHTS
1. The cable car from Aiguille Du Midi at Chamonix, France, over the glacier past Mont Blanc to Helbronner was jaw-dropping stupendous.
2. Walking across the Aletsch glacier from Jungfraujoch to Monchsjoch, the highest occupied hut in Switzerland at 11,975 feet,
was surreal, with the crisp air, serene silence, virgin snow, icicles and crevasses.
3. The 3.73-mile Eiger trail from Eigergletscher to Alpiglen in the shadow of the famed mountain was
challenging and exhilarating.
4. The beautiful Alps framed by gnarled karst rock, lush meadows and tall pines about 90 minutes out from
Schynige Platte en route to First was amazing.
5. Our first Swiss train experience, the Bernina Express from Tirano to St. Moritz, introduced us to the lush,
green, idyllic beauty of Switzerland.
6. My first Via Ferrata, from Murren. What. A. Thrill. (Read separate post!)
7. Seeing the main mountains from virtually every perspective allowed us to get to know and love them.
Here's what surprised us:
1. Trains
• Were mostly very clean, quiet, comfy, easy to use and indeed, remarkably on time. This is a surprise when you're accustomed to American subways.
• Often are very slow, stopping to let opposite trains go by as there may be only one track, or because they're operating on cogwheels! (And yet are still on time!)
• Do not list every single stop…which I discovered as I left Murren for my 6 hour hike between First and Schynige Platte. The digital board sign said Zwilutschinen, so I got off…and the station was Sandweidli, in the middle of nowhere. It was very cold and lonely at 8 a.m. and I felt like an idiot, plus I lost 30 minutes.
2. Weather
• Comes and goes so you have to watch the live cams, and hope to get lucky! In Zermatt, we took one day off due to clouds, then took a chance the next day and got amazing views of the Matterhorn, Breithorn and more on the Kleine Matterhorn cable. In Wengen, the forecast for Jungfraujoch was lousy and the live cam was busted but we went to foggy Kleine Scheidegg, where the attendant said it was clear above: And it was!
• We bundled up for the mountaintops but were often too warm. There was almost no wind so it was delightfully comfortable, especially when the sun was out.
3. Mountain transportation
• Really slow and crowded. They cram people in like sardines in the large cable cars (100 capacity!) and some trains (like Schynige Platte). If you do get some privacy, the slow pace allows you to really enjoy the scenery.
• May or may not run on a schedule. There was precision in some places but often the cable came sooner than the listed times. At other times, you’re all crowded around waiting and waiting.
• We were delighted by the bag handling at the Grütschalp gondola (across the road from the Lauterbrunnen train): they will load it (at no cost) on the gondola and on the train, so you next see it upon arrival in Murren (in our case, at the Hotel Eiger!). The Grutschalp gondola, BTW, holds 100 people and they will PACK THEM IN. Then you are all herded into the train to Murren.
4. Hospitality staff were almost all helpful, patient and knowledgeable, showing little disdain for us dumb tourists.
5. Cows everywhere! They are just adorable set against the lush green and white mountains, clanging their bells!
Here are our top 200 pictures to tease, encourage or remind you of Switzerland's beauty: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5fdXkoVah4BkdMMm7
Enjoy!