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1 of 5: Highlights and surprises from 2 fabulous weeks

We had two fabulous weeks in Switzerland plus three nights in Chamonix, France (in between Iceland, Italy and London), thanks to help here and elsewhere! I hope these 5 posts will be helpful for future travelers.

Our itinerary and nights from September 4: St. Moritz, 1; Zermatt, 3; Wengen, 5; Murren, 3; Bern, 1; Chamonix, 3; Geneva, 2.

TOP HIGHLIGHTS
1. The cable car from Aiguille Du Midi at Chamonix, France, over the glacier past Mont Blanc to Helbronner was jaw-dropping stupendous.
2. Walking across the Aletsch glacier from Jungfraujoch to Monchsjoch, the highest occupied hut in Switzerland at 11,975 feet,
was surreal, with the crisp air, serene silence, virgin snow, icicles and crevasses.
3. The 3.73-mile Eiger trail from Eigergletscher to Alpiglen in the shadow of the famed mountain was
challenging and exhilarating.
4. The beautiful Alps framed by gnarled karst rock, lush meadows and tall pines about 90 minutes out from
Schynige Platte en route to First was amazing.
5. Our first Swiss train experience, the Bernina Express from Tirano to St. Moritz, introduced us to the lush,
green, idyllic beauty of Switzerland.
6. My first Via Ferrata, from Murren. What. A. Thrill. (Read separate post!)
7. Seeing the main mountains from virtually every perspective allowed us to get to know and love them.

Here's what surprised us:

1. Trains
• Were mostly very clean, quiet, comfy, easy to use and indeed, remarkably on time. This is a surprise when you're accustomed to American subways.
• Often are very slow, stopping to let opposite trains go by as there may be only one track, or because they're operating on cogwheels! (And yet are still on time!)
• Do not list every single stop…which I discovered as I left Murren for my 6 hour hike between First and Schynige Platte. The digital board sign said Zwilutschinen, so I got off…and the station was Sandweidli, in the middle of nowhere. It was very cold and lonely at 8 a.m. and I felt like an idiot, plus I lost 30 minutes.

2. Weather
• Comes and goes so you have to watch the live cams, and hope to get lucky! In Zermatt, we took one day off due to clouds, then took a chance the next day and got amazing views of the Matterhorn, Breithorn and more on the Kleine Matterhorn cable. In Wengen, the forecast for Jungfraujoch was lousy and the live cam was busted but we went to foggy Kleine Scheidegg, where the attendant said it was clear above: And it was!
• We bundled up for the mountaintops but were often too warm. There was almost no wind so it was delightfully comfortable, especially when the sun was out.

3. Mountain transportation
• Really slow and crowded. They cram people in like sardines in the large cable cars (100 capacity!) and some trains (like Schynige Platte). If you do get some privacy, the slow pace allows you to really enjoy the scenery.
• May or may not run on a schedule. There was precision in some places but often the cable came sooner than the listed times. At other times, you’re all crowded around waiting and waiting.
• We were delighted by the bag handling at the Grütschalp gondola (across the road from the Lauterbrunnen train): they will load it (at no cost) on the gondola and on the train, so you next see it upon arrival in Murren (in our case, at the Hotel Eiger!). The Grutschalp gondola, BTW, holds 100 people and they will PACK THEM IN. Then you are all herded into the train to Murren.
4. Hospitality staff were almost all helpful, patient and knowledgeable, showing little disdain for us dumb tourists.
5. Cows everywhere! They are just adorable set against the lush green and white mountains, clanging their bells!

Here are our top 200 pictures to tease, encourage or remind you of Switzerland's beauty: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5fdXkoVah4BkdMMm7

Enjoy!

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I have read all 4 of your reports. Well done! You experienced a lot and gave Switzerland a good dose of your time. We go every year to the Jungfrau Region (just spent two weeks in Lauterbrunnen) and regularly explore other areas as well and I agree with so many your assessments and insights. The trains! The cows! The mountain tops!

A via ferrata is not in my future, however.

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2 of 5: TOP TIPS From two great weeks

Trains
a. You have to push the button to open the doors!! Sticking your hand or foot will just get them smashed—doors are not motion-sensored.
b. You can manage with larger suitcases—we had two that were 26x18x11 inches. The hardest part was getting them up/down the 3-4 steps to the carriage. The most inconvenient part was finding ramps or lifts when you’re trying to make tight transfers.
c. There isn’t always nice baggage areas: we took advantage of open spaces that did not block movement to lay our bags down.
d. 1st class cabins are usually labeled clearly outside and inside. Also, check the signs above for your train: it will show letters and numbers: the letters are areas on the track (A/B/C/D); numbers are the classes. So A 1 would mean that's the approximate area for first class carriages.
e. LOVED our Swiss Travel Passes. Never needed to show our passports.
f. The SBB app is wonderful!! Make sure to book your ticket before the train departs or it won't process. (You’ll probably be saved by a nice attendant, like I was). FYI it will not “sync” with your STP.
g. Attendants did not always come through to check tickets.
h. If you want to avoid crowds, you may want to go first class all the way. (On the panoramic trains, first class gives you two seats facing each other vs only clusters of four seats.)

Our two panoramic trains:

  • There are digital signs on each carriage with its number. If you have reserved seats, your ticket will list the car number in very small type.
    • The train motion does get rocky. One lady said she was surprised to feel nauseous as she’s accustomed to trains.

Bernina Express on Sept 4 from Tirano to St. Moritz: gorgeous!!
1. If you are transferring from the Italian train at Tirano, the Swiss station is to your immediate left. I overshot it thinking it was further and bigger.
2. We were surprised the first class didn’t have any baggage area! We pushed ours between seats. Although our carriage was almost full, most were day trippers without bags.
3. The scenery was fabulous, especially on a spectacular day. As others have noted, the window glare makes for awful reflections.
FYI: Seat reservations open 6 months out while tickets are 3 months out.

Glacier Express on Sept. 5 from St. Moritz to Zermatt: long, nice, but nowhere near the beauty of the Bernina (granted it was a gray rainy day!)
1. We had been told you could board 15 minutes in advance or 10:05. But we got on before 10 and others were already aboard. This only matters so you can get a good spot for your bags.
2. There is a lot of bustling around in the narrow aisles by workers hawking souvenirs (snow globes, hats, stuffed marmots) and food. We bought our own but the dishes actually looked pretty good and weren't outrageously priced.
3. Although the headphones have commentary, it doesn't alert you to LOOK LEFT RIGHT NOW QUICK FOR GREAT VIEWS. So you have to be alert to what's coming up. Though, again, lousy window reflections make lousy pictures.
4. There was a note saying all the Glacier express trains will be refurbished by 2020 including WLAN. Currently no power or WiFi.
FYI: Seat reservations open 90 days out (not the same as 3 months) at 2 a.m. Swiss time.

Mountain transportation
a. Be patient. Everything will take longer than you expected. And often be more crowded than you’d like.
b. Almost always sit right for views.
c. You can have your bags transferred from Murren to be held at the Grütschalp gondola by the train station for $6 each.
d. Consider getting the Jungfrau pass if you plan to explore all the fantastic hikes and summits. I calculated I saved about $165 over four days with it compared to only the Swiss Travel Pass.

Packing
• In September, we overpacked winter gear and underpacked light gear (I had to buy a tank top because I got so hot on a couple of hikes).
• Most used items: sun hats, sunglasses, hiking boots

Enjoy!

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3 of 5: Comparing Swiss mountain summits

• Plz Nair in St. Moritz: was special as our first mountain top, with glimpses of the town and lakes and marmots.

• Kleine Matterhorn in Zermatt: The highest cable in Europe at 12,830 feet (just beating Aiguille du Midi in France by 136 feet). The Matterhorn was lovely as we passed it, then shrouded once we were on top, where Breithorn was most prominent, with many hikers attempting to summit (this is called the "easiest" Alp to summit). We had 3 nights in Zermatt and the mountain was out for 4 hours--so give yourself time to outlast the weather!

• Gornergrat in Zermatt: This is a very slow cogwheel train. It was too cloudy to see much the day I went up but some say it has the best views of the Matterhorn as well as 29 of the 48 4,000-meter peaks in Switzerland.

Jungfrau region
• Jungfraujoch: is pricey and gets some bad press but we thought it was great. No other summit allowed us to walk on and touch the pristine glacier and snow like this. Tip: Even if you don’t plan to do the hike to the Monchsjoch, go out that entrance for lovely scenery with far fewer people.Just ignore the shops at the end. BTW, the Lindt chocolate shop does not give free samples, but you get a Thank you chocolate on your way back down on the train! ({Post 5 will be on Jungfraujoch)

Be sure to acclimatize yourself for the altitude here: take your time, drink plenty of water. My husband had to slow drastically, especially on steps. I found myself panting excessively as I started the walk to the Monchsjoch hut.

• Mannlichen: Easy, short tram from Wengen to the top (we also paid extra for the Royal Ride on the top of the tram, which was fun), then an easy though steep “Royal Walk” to the peak, with great views of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau, as well as the Lauterbrunnen valley.

The easy 3 mile walk from Mannlichen to Klein Scheidegg is beautiful and popular—you’re facing the big three mountains and walking flat or downhill nearly the whole way. It took us about 1 hour 45 with lots of dawdling.

• Grindelwald-First: Grindelwald is a nice sized city when compared to Wengen or Murren, in a pretty valley beneath Eiger, Wetterhorn, Shreckhorn and Mettenberg. It’s a trek to get here, with a train to Grindelwald, then two slow cable cars going up 3.25 miles. Aside from the mountain views, First is designed for fun, with a great “thrill walk” or suspension platform jutting from the mountain, and popular paid adrenalin activities like a glider or flyer or scooter.

The 1.9 mile walk to Bachalpsee is not quite as easy as advertised. I’m fast and it took me 45 minutes with some panting. It’s another 15 minutes to the higher and better viewpoint past the lake.

• Schilthorn: Easy tram from Murren with a change in Birg. This was perhaps the best views of the mountain range, especially Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau and more, all lined up at eye level. You can romp around different viewpoints and even out on the mountain ledges (where you can watch the paragliders launch). This was the setting for On Her Majesty’s Secret Service with George Lazenby and they milk the 007 for all its worth—I thought the bathroom designs were cute but that was about it. I considered the hike up here but it didn’t look that interesting. (Piz Gloria is the name of the revolving restaurant.) This is free with the STP through this year, then 50% off in 2020.

Birg thrill walk: Really fun! It’s a pathway jutting from the mountain, with a tightrope, see-through-path, and “tunnel,” all with amazing views around.

• Schynige Platte: I hiked here from First, then took the slooow train down. The views about 90 minutes from the train station were fabulous because it combined the white Alps with the green trees and dark karst rock. Around the station are views of the beautiful glacial lakes and towns below. It’s not easy to get here so I wouldn’t make it a priority.

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4 of 5: Via Ferrata from Murren

WHAT A THRILL!

In my planning, I stumbled upon and was intrigued by the Via Ferrara Murren...but was pretty nervous to attempt it. While we were in Murren, I decided to go for it on Sept. 15.

Via Ferrata means iron path, a protected climbing route with established metal rungs and a cable wire. It’s also known as Klettersteig. (There is one at Eiger, which will take you over the Rotstock summit. I would find a guide to take me on that one next time!)

This was the most adrenaline-filled 3 hours I’ve ever had: up, down, hovering, climbing, dangling with a harness and carabiners for the first time.

The route down to Gimmelwald includes a zip line, tightrope, suspension bridge, ladders and numerous metal rungs often hanging out of the rock wall into space.

You are attached to a metal cable nearly the entire way. The biggest challenge for me (a very active 59-year-old) were the occasional high steps or drops where my short legs struggled to find purchase.

Tours with equipment (harness, carabiners, helmet, gloves if needed) cost $135 and are offered twice a day with 8 people max. You can sign up at the Murren sports shop in the middle of town or at the Alpine center. The guide does not take pictures but I stopped often to do so, getting scolded once when we first started out! You can do this via ferrata yourself, if able, but there are portions you cannot do unguided, like the zipline.

Now, a few weeks later, reviewing the pictures/videos brings a huge smile to my face, and makes my heart race, just a little--BOY, that Nepal suspension bridge was high up! Over a 1310 feet ravine! Gulp.

If you’re fit and like fun adventures, add this to your list!

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5 of 5: Jungfraujoch excursion

We were in Wengen five nights and had a fantastic morning on Sept. 9.

When we woke up, it was raining below in Lautebrunnen and very cloudy at Manlichen. The Jungfraujoch live cam was busted. What to do?

We decided to take the train to Kleine Scheidegg and see how it looked. This was a beautiful ride: You want to sit right but can also stand as some of the windows open for great photos! (This would cost 75% of fare going directly from Wengen to KS if you have only the STP vs free if you go the long way around Grindelwald. We had the Jungfrau pass, which covers everything we wanted.)

The weather was semi-cloudy at the station and we asked how it looked on top: very clear! So we used our Jungfrau passes to buy tickets for $60, 50% off. (It would be $90 or 25% off with the STP.)

We asked if we should reserve seats and the attendant said it wasn’t necessary-hmmm. We boarded a few minutes early but they held the train and PACKED them in, leaving about 10 minutes late—our first late Swiss train!

You want to sit right going up as the Jungfrau and other mountains soon appear in spectacularly close fashion.

The train stops at Eismeer inside a tunnel for 5 minutes. They’re not explicit but you are encouraged to pop out and take a pix of the glaciers through a panoramic window. There also are toilets there.

Sometimes people will take your seat when you do this. But the rest of the trip is very short.

Upon arrival you weave through the tracks due to renovations. Then you get to the first overlook area and the elevator to the Sphinx Observatory. (Jungfraujoch lists 10 tour stops mostly in a loop.)

Wow! Top of Europe indeed! You’re at 11,332 feet with glaciers all around you and Monch and Jungfrau most prominent. (Jungfrau is immediately to the right of the observatory; You can’t really see Eiger from here.)

Remember to go slowly due to the altitude, drink fluids, sit down if you feel lightheaded, etc.

We went next to the trail to Monchsjoch hut, the highest occupied hut in Switzerland. Just walking out onto the Aletsch glacier was magical with pristine snow and far fewer tourists. There also are some “fun” activities here like golfing! Much nicer than the plateau, another tour stop.

The air was so crisp, the silence serene, the beauty surreal en route to Monchsjoch. It’s fairly short, about 1.25 miles, but took me 51 minutes due to the altitude and slight incline. I made lots of photo stops and panting stops to let my heart rate calm down.

The hut is a cafe and hostel apparently. They ask you to take off your shoes before entering, providing clogs. It’s a very dark space and I almost left wearing someone else’s boots!

They don’t want you to picnic inside so I snacked outside on the small deck, used their toilet, and headed out. It was a very easy 30 minutes back. All together I may have seen 50-75 people on this lovely trek.

Back to the Jungfraujoch for a quick breeze through the ice palace (you go through the tunnel called "the alpine sensation," which pays tribute to the miners who blazed through the mountain), out on the crowded but pretty views plateau, then snaked through the shops and crowds, and back to the train (long line here so reservations may be wise.).

Wonderful experience that shouldn’t be missed! You can do this without much exertion as long as you are careful about the altitude.

Enjoy!

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Thank you for sharing your insights and tips! Very much appreciated and helpful for the future travelers. I noted a few things for my trip next summer :)

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Wow!!!!! I just looked at your pictures. :) Thanks for sharing. I am in the process of planning a trip for mid April 2020. I appreciate the trip report. I'm hoping for a warm April so i can see some cows. :)

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You are most welcomed; I love sharing and helping as much as I love the planning!

@Carrie: I hope your April weather will cooperate! You know some hikes may not be accessible yet.