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Grindelwald

I notice Rick doesn't really mention Grindelwald in his Switzerland book, even though he highly recommends the Berner Oberland. I'll be in that area next month and was curious about exploring the town. Anyone know why he doesn't recommend this particular Alps town?

Posted by
3125 posts

Because Wengen, Murren, and Gimmelwald are way better as they are actually up in the mountains. 😊

Posted by
1043 posts

There is not a lot in the town itself, but take it from a local, you should definitely take the post bus up to Schwarzwaldalp. The views of Eiger and down into the valley are fantastic.

Posted by
17422 posts

I believe Rick prefers the small mountain villages as more “authentic”; somewhere he dismissed Grindelwald as “too touristy”. But so are Wengen, Mürren, and Gimmelwald; they pretty much exist to serve tourists, although that is not how they started.

I think the biggest different is that Grindelwald is larger, and has cars and tour buses, while the higher mountain villages are car-free.

While I do enjoy that aspect of Mürren, I will say that I have spent time in Grindelwald on two of our trips, and liked it there. The views from the town toward the Eiger and other peaks can be stunning; the town offers much more in the way of hotels, shops, and restaurants; and some of the best hikes in the Berner Oberland originate from or near Grindelwald.

Posted by
1299 posts

Back in 2001, I made my first visit to the BO. At that time, Grindelwald was considered quite "touristy" and crowded while Murren, Wengen, and Lauterbrunnen were quieter and less traveled. Rick Steves take on it was Grindelwald was for Tour groups while the Lauterbrunnen valley was for people who wanted to see the real Berner Oberland and get away from the crowds. I remember in 2000 my daughter visited Lauterbrunnen (on a large European trip) I checked out multiple guidebooks on Europe to follow her travels. Rick Steves was the only guidebook that mentioned Lauterbrunnen (everyone else talked about Grindelwald) Since he only focuses on certain areas (he is not trying to be comprehensive and all encompassing) Lauterbrunnen valley was his pick on where to stay in the BO.

Having said that, these towns have been fully discovered. (with help from RS) . On my last trip in 2018, I was amazed at how full of tourists the streets were and how you had to have a reservation to eat in any restaurant. (all 4 of my visits have been in September) There is nothing wrong with Grindelwald, but I still prefer Lauterbrunnen because of the beauty of that valley. It also has a more remote feel. (I have also stayed in Wengen) I also think that valley is less commercialized than Grindelwald. You will have a great time whatever you choose.

Posted by
1299 posts

Well, Lola and I posted at the same time, so some repetition.

Posted by
10 posts

Thanks, I'm staying in Murren, but I'll have that Berner Oberland Regional pass, so I'll be taking advantage of all those mountain railroads and cable cars, so maybe I'll make it a stop.

Posted by
11569 posts

We prefer Grindelwald. Like the other towns mentioned, it has incredible mountain views. However it is larger so offers more dining and hotel options. We rented a chalet there and our whole stay was magical!
Rick Steves chooses certain villages and towns to focus on. He takes his tours there and often they are crowded after his loyal travelers read his guide books. The Cinque Terre is a prime example.
I have been to Varenna on Lake Como where his tours stay, a pretty lakeside town. I prefer Bellagio and other places on the lake. His loyal followers go to Varenna.

Posted by
10 posts

Yes, Suki, I know about the Rick Steve's Cinque Terre phenomena.....a magical place and he kinda put it on the map!
Good for the local's economy, but not so much for their peace I'm sure!

Posted by
768 posts

If you have the BO pass and you are going to Grindelwald, you should take the cable car from Grindelwald up to First, and then take the 50 min. walk to Bachalpsee. Google image it and you'll see.

Posted by
3 posts

Rick probably doesn't mention this place as much as because it is a town that is totally a sports enthusiasts playground. If you are into things like hiking, mountain biking, paragliding via ferratas then this place is the ultimate thrill seekers playground!

Posted by
470 posts

As someone who first visited the area 1951 in i think the influence of travellers to the area by Rick Steves has been grossly overstated
The Murray Handbook to Switzerland was first published in 1839