Go out of my way for Glacier and Bernina Express?

Posted by chronofar on 06/22/22 01:44 PM

I have a few weeks in Switzerland leading into some time in Italy (first time in either country), and I'm having a bit of difficulty putting together the transition itinerary. Currently my itinerary looks like

3 nights in Geneva
3 nights in Adelboden
6 nights in Wengen
6 nights in Zermatt

Then I have a couple days to play with to get to a rather remote location in Lake Como. My main question here is, if I take the faster route getting from Zermatt to Lake Como rather than going the longer but more scenic route of the Glacier to Bernina Express through Tirano, am I missing a lot given the above itinerary preceding it? The train rides were among my top things to do in Switzerland previously, but now I have a few reasons for perhaps wanting to skip them on this go round:

Many people seem to think Glacier isn't all it's cracked up to be
I have to organize some logistics with getting to the place I want to go in Como, so if I do Glacier one day then Bernina the next coupled with either a train ride to car rental or train to ferry to bus (haven't determined which route yet), that seems like a lot of travel very quickly, and I prefer to travel a bit slower/smaller increments (though to be sure if it's worth it I'll do it).
Given the amount of hiking and sightseeing I'm going to be doing at the above locations, I'm not sure if the train rides, while spectacular I'm sure, will be something of more of the same, and may be appreciated more at some future time where I haven't been surrounded by dramatic mountains already for some days.
These routes are of course more expensive than Zermatt to Milan

Despite these reasons to skip the scenic train journeys, I'm still pulled in their direction in fear of missing a truly unique and spectacular journey. So I'm looking for either vindication in nixing those or strong reasons to make sure I do them anyway from those who have a better handle on what I'm in for.

One other idea I've recently started toying with is nixing Como and instead staying in Chur for a bit, breaking up the train journeys in route to my next destination (Venice), but again not sure if that'll be more of the same and if I'm better off sticking with Como.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Posted by Lola

Seattle, WA

06/22/22 04:00 PM

16333 posts

If you are a hiker, I think you would find the long ride on the Glacier Express boring—sitting there looking at those mountains out the window.

The Bernina Pass route from Pontresina to Tirano lovely, with amazing views into the valley as you descend toward Italy. We once planned our journey to Venice from Switzerland to take that route (by regional train, not the named panoramic train). But we were starting from Zurich. For you, starting in Zermatt, it would be a long way out of your way.

Two other possibilities, starting with a look at the rail map of Switzerland:

https://cdn-doc.myswissalps.com/docs/default-source/rail-network-maps/swisstravelpass.pdf?sfvrsn=7788603a_56

One would be to ride the 8:52 am Glacier Express just as far as Andermatt. Change there to a regional train heading the short distance north to Göschenen, 15 minutes away. You will get there in plenty of time to catch the southbound Gotthard Panorama Express to Lugano, where you have various options for getting to Lake Como. Or you could take a regular regional train on the tracks if the schedule works better, but you may have to change trains in Bellinzona.

Another option would be to take the train from Zermatt to Brig and change there to the southbound train toward Milan, but get off at Domodossola. There you can board the scenic CentoValli railway to Locarno. If you have time, spend a night or 2 there and explore the beautiful Val Verzasca ( you won’t be alone there, however). Photos of the valley and the trails, from a cyclist’s perspective, but you could hike instead.
https://www.travelyesplease.com/travel-blog-alta-verzasca-bike-verzasca-valley/