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First European Trip with my Girlfriend to Switzerland - Please give us any thoughts on our Itinerary

We will arrive on August 5th and depart on August 16th. Any help is greatly appreciated!

5: Arrive at 1 pm (stay in Zurich the first night)

6: Appenzell ( take train to Appenzell {2 hours duration}) (Stay at one one of the guest house options in the mountains after taking the ebenalp gondola) https://ebenalp.ch/en/welcome

7: Appenzell (Hike + take in views)

8: Get up early in Appenzell, take gondola down, take the train to Chur then immediately take Glacier Express to Zermatt (~8 hours on train)

9: Zermatt - Five lakes hike (take short train ride from sunnegga to blauherd), watch the sunset (possible gonergrat railway or gondola)

10: Head to Montreux ~ 3 hours stay there 1 night (promenade, steamboat wineries, chateau chillon, rocher de naye (view of the city and mountains)

11: Head to Jungfrau region depending on the town ~ 3-5 hours (most likely Wengen) { hike to mannlichen, mannlichen to klein scheidegg}

12: Jungfrau activities (hiking and exploring)

13: Jungfrau activities

14: Bern

15: Luzern day trip on way back go sleep in Zurich

16: Fly out at 2pm

Posted by
6888 posts

This is pretty well thought-out overall.
At the start of the trip, with a 1 pm arrival, I would head straight to Appenzell, and perhaps just spend an extra night there to acclimatize.
At the end of the trip, I would leave out Bern, and stay a second night around Montreux instead because 1 night is not enough to do everything you listed.
Therefore, after Jungfrau region, I would head to Luzern, and stay there the night before your flight: with a 2pm flight and Swiss train reliability, it will be no problem to reach Zürich airport in time.

Posted by
1803 posts

My thoughts are similar to Balso’s. Head straight to Appenzell on arrival day.

I have been to Bern and to Luzern. Both are very nice but I prefer Luzern. Spend your last two nights there. Head to Zurich airport on the morning of departure. There is frequent train service to the airport and it’s about a 75 minute ride.

If you can add a day to your trip then Montreux makes sense. If only one day then I would consider dropping it. Reallocate the day to someplace on your list. Maybe Zermatt?

Posted by
8438 posts

Skip Bern. Its a nice city, with indoor city-sights but its not in the mountains, and mountains is why you go to Switzerland. You'll much more enjoy extra time in Luzern. And you can stay overnight in Luzern (rather than Zurich) and take a train to the Zurich airport at 1.25 hours easily.

If it were me, I'd consider going in the counterclockwise version: airport>Luzern>Jungfrau region>Zermatt (GE route)>Chur>Appenzell>airport. I think Montreux is a bit of a time eating outlier, but others would disagree. Or head that way and fly out of Geneva.

Posted by
266 posts

Looks like a good trip. I would agree with others who mentioned that you might replace Montreux with another day elsewhere. I enjoyed the area, but I spent more time in Switzerland than you will have. You might add another day to Zermatt, which would increase the chances of having a clear view of the Matterhorn and other mountains.

All the best,

Raymond

Posted by
1768 posts

My tip is don't tell your wife :)

Seriously though, you might add a side trip out of Switzerland to mix it up a little. Not that 10 days in Switzerland is too long of course.

If I was tacking on a side trip I'd do amazing Colmar France, 40 minutes from Basel, incredibly beautiful, romantic and unique small city with insanely good food and wine at reasonable prices. Very different from any Swiss region and easily close enough for just one night even .... But might blow up your efficient use of trains.

On the other hand if you cut Bern and Montreaux you could easily fit Colmar and a wine village or two. Switzerland, to this traveler anyway, is about the mountains. I like Swiss cities, but they can be so frackin' expensive you end up not fully taking advantage. And truth be told they generally don't leap forward as amazing places. A side trip to an interesting nearby city outside of Switzerland and you can indulge more freely in dining out, shopping, etc.

Think about skipping Zurich for Alpenzell on your arrival. the train from the airport is simple, probably easier than from Zurich city center, and certainly easier logistics to go straight to Alpenzell than into Zurich, get to hotel, leave hotel, busy train station. Going straight to Alpenzell you gain an extra night later in your itinerary, or an extra night in Alpenzell. You can rent a small apartment in Alpenzell and set up house for three days, hit the supermarket to save a lot of coin, recover from jet lag in a beautiful quiet setting. Added bonus you start hiking sooner, maybe even late afternoon on the first day. Moving around outdoors in the fresh air and sunshine is kryptonite to jet lag; extending transit time by another day is the opposite.

Posted by
9420 posts

I highly recommend staying in Murren in the Berner Oberland rather than Wengen. We’ve stayed in Murren twice and like it much better than Wengen (seemed very touristy), better views in Murren in my opinion, and hiking is better in my opinion. Murren is a very authentic, very charming, car-free village.

Posted by
124 posts

Dylan,
Congratulations you are going to Switzerland!

With only 10 days I would limit to 3 stops/hotel stays. Otherwise your only going to see Switzerland from a train window. I count 6 out of 10 days you plan on traveling to a new place to sleep (I could have miscounted) with 18 hours on a train, 11% of your waking time. Here's what you also need to consider, even a 2-hour train ride will eat half your day or more. You have to pack, go to the station, travel, wait until 3 pm to check in to your new location to relieve yourself of your luggage, etc. With such limited time, I wouldn't try to see so many places this trip. You will want to go back again anyway!

Posted by
1768 posts

Following on Oreon above, you might forgo Alpenzell for the Berner Oberland or vice versa. Wengen etc has mind blowing scenery and great hiking; Alpenzell to me (haven't been but close) looks a bit more like Tyrol (Austrian Alps) with that gemutlich quality Tyrol is famous for (defined as German-language word used to convey the idea of a state or feeling of warmth, friendliness and good cheer. Other qualities encompassed by the term include cosiness, peace of mind, and a sense of belonging and well-being springing from social acceptance).

And then there's Zermatt, haven't been either, but I'd argue that the mountains are best "lived in" as opposed to toured. I'd rather hike and eat and drink and sleep and via ferrata and mountain bike and smell the cows in one place for 4 or 5 days than tick boxes that I'd laid eyes upon all the famous peaks. Scenic train rides are awesome but you don't necessarily have to commit time to the places they terminate.

Anyway Oreon gives good advice. Maybe start in the mountains, tour a scenic train ride that can connect to an ordinary train to a city you'd really like to visit, get back in the mountains, head home? More of less is not necessarily less of more ....

Posted by
4392 posts

I thought the only good thing about Montreux is you take the Golden Pass to get there. Didn't do anything for me, except the castle was cool.

Posted by
768 posts

As for your #11: Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg is a great trail and one of my top 3. However, do you really want to HIKE to Mannlichen from Wengen? It is switchbacks, almost straight uphill, and VERY tiring. 99.999+% of people take the cable car from Wengen up to Mannlichen.

Posted by
1370 posts

Agree with Shoe on the hike. We stayed in Wengen and liked it better than Murren because there are more restaurants, bars, shops, etc. Also loved Montreux's lakefront promenade and Chillon. Bern is nice but we liked Luzurn better. Enjoy!

Posted by
856 posts

You go to Bern to change trains, that's about it. I agree with others on skipping the overnight in Zurich as well as skipping Montreux.

Instead, cut the journey to Lauterbrunnen by half, rail to Spiez (2 hour train) and spend the day there. Castle, cruise on the Thunersee. Looking for a wine experience? https://www.alpineweinkultur.ch/en/

I hope this helps.

Posted by
32740 posts

click on Shoe's name for some great hikes

Posted by
16241 posts

This sounds like a great trip but I wonder if you have adequately considered all the details, especially with respect to Appenzell and the Glacier Express to Zermatt. Some questions:

Have you made reservations at one of the Ebenalp guest houses? These mountain inns are very popular with the Swiss and you may find them booked up.

3 of the 4 guest houses listed on the Ebenalp website require some hiking to arrive. You won’t want to do this with your luggage, unless you are traveling with just lightweight backpacks. If not, you need to have a plan for your luggage while you are up on the mountain.

Have you looked carefully at the train and cablecar schedules to get you from Ebenalp to Chur? The named Glacier Express departs Chur at 11:06 am. Travel time from the Ebenalp train station to Chur is 2+ hours, depending on how many train changes you make along the way. There are 2 departures that will get you to Chur at 10:48, in time for the 11:06 GE: depart at 8 am for a journey of 2 hr. 48 minutes, with 2 changes, or depart at 8:30 am for a journey of 2 hours 18 minutes and 5! changes. The Ebenalp cablecar starts running at 7:30 and you should be on that one if you want to make that 8 am train. If you are staying at a guesthouse other than Ebenalp, you need to add the hiking time.

Here is a schematic map of the guesthouse locations and trails:

https://www.schaefler.ch/wandern/

The Glacier Express is a long journey—-6+ hours. You can do the same route faster by taking the local trains (you will have some changes on the way). Either way, added to the time for the journey from Ebenalp, it makes for a long day on trains. And expensive—-46 CHF for Ebenalp to Chur (not including the cablecar) and 88 CHF for Chur to Zermatt. You can reduce these costs with a Half Fare card or Swiss Pass—-have you looked at these?

You are going all the way to Zermatt to spend one day there and do one hike (the 5 lakes hike). We like Zermatt a lot—-it has lots of good hiking to offer, but you should be aware that your chances of seeing the Matterhorn on any given day are less than 50%. We did not visit Zermatt until our 4th trip to Switzerland, when we had time to spend 4 days/3 nights there. We did luck out and had glorious views of the Matterhorn on days 2, 3, and 4 (on our way out of town), but I suspect this is unusual. RS did not see the Mountain until his 3rd filming trip in Switzerland—-and then he put Zermatt a on his “good to see list”.

Without knowing whether you have considered all these details, I am going to suggest some changes in your trip. First, that you choose between Ebenalp and Zermatt—-including both makes for too much moving around and many hours on trains. Second, I will propose an itinerary that assumes you choose Zermatt, suggesting a logical route.

From your arrival at Zurich, proceed straight to Luzern for your first night. Spend 1-2 nights. From there, head over the Brunig Pass to the Berner Oberland. Choose Wengen or Muerren for your stay (we like both but lean towards Muerren as a base for hiking). Spend at least 4 nights there.

Then take the Golden Pass route (not necessarily a dedicated Golden Pass train) to Montreux. Spend 2 nights, perhaps in the smaller town of Vevey (closer to Chateau du Chillon).

Then to Zermatt, for 3 nights not just 2. Montreux to Zermatt is 2.5 hours by train, with one change (at Visp).

From Zermatt there are direct trains through the Lotschberg Basistunnel to Zurich taking 3.5 hours, usually with a single change at Visp (there is one with 0 changes). You could easily get to Zurich before noon, in good time for your 2 pm flight, although some might consider this risky (I would myself, anyplace else, but not in Switzerland). If you want to travel the previous day just to be safe, you stay most of the day in Zermatt and take an evening train to Zurich.

I have an alternate suggestion that includes Appenzell and will be back.

Posted by
16241 posts

Ok, if you still want to include Appenzell and Zermatt, you can do that by dropping Montreux.

Travel from the Berner Oberland straight to Zermatt, spend 3 nights, then go from Zermatt to Zurich and transfer there for the train to Appenzell. You can return to Zurich the morning of your flight, or the night before, depending on your risk tolerance.

Posted by
124 posts

Dylan,
Don't be discouraged planning can be hard. However, please pay attention to Lola's two post above that are full of info and time constraint warnings. Additionally, come back and let us know what you're thinking after these responses. I'm sure we are all intrigued about your trip, you will love it.

Posted by
31 posts

Hi everyone,

Thanks for your replies! They have been helpful in finalizing some of our plans. Heres an answer to a few of the questions asked:
1. Yes we will be traveling light in order to facilitate the hiking (and general travel)
2. We have 2 days booked in Appenzell. The second day will be at the Ebenalp Inn so we will be able to get up and take the train quickly
3. I was planning on getting the Swiss Travel Pass and was planning on that paying for most of the train fares (including Appenzell to Chur). I also was planning on taking the glacier express at the 12:14 departure from Chur. In order to get there, we would catch the train from Wasserauen at 9:18 am and arrive in Chur at 11:48.