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Best Two-Week Trip by Train?

I'm planning to take my wife and two boys (12 year old twins) to Switzerland this year. We will be arriving around July 17th +/- couple days. None of us have ever been to Switzerland so it's all new to us. The boys do travel well and are game for anything. In the past we've taken them with us on trips to Germany, Austria and Norway without any problems. We all like being out doors and being from a flat coastal area we really enjoy being in the mountains.

What does everyone think about Rick Steves' "Best Two-Week Trip by Train from the guidebook? Is this a good itinerary he is suggesting? I am thinking to use this as my starting point for planning but right off the bat I'd be adding two extra days. How would you adjust this itinerary and where would you spend two extra days?

This is what RS suggests in his book.

Day 1: Arrive Zurich Airport. Head to Appenzell. Sleep in Appenzell or on Ebenalp.

Day 2: All day for Appenzell and Ebenalp. Sleep in Appenzell or on Ebenalp again.

Day 3: Leave early for Luzern. Sleep in Luzern.

Day 4: Luzern. Sleep in Luzern.

Day 5: Boat, then train to Lugano along William Tell Express route. Sleep in Lugano.

Day 6: Bernina Express to Pontresina area. Sleep in Pontresina.

Day 7: Pontresina area with St. Moritz and Samedan. Sleep in Pontresina again.

Day 8: Take Glacier Express to Zermatt. Sleep in Zermatt.

Day 9: Zermatt. Sleep in Zermatt again.

Day 10: If weather's good, spend more time in Zermatt and go late to Lausanne. If weather's bad, leave early for Lausanne. Sleep in Lausanne.

Day 11: Take the Golden Pass to the Berner Oberland. If the weather's good then go early. If it's bad then linger in Lausanne area and leave later. Sleep in Murren.

Day 12: All day for lifts and hikes in Berner Oberland. Sleep in Murren again.

Day 13: More time in Berner Oberland. Sleep in Murren again.

Day 14: Early to Bern, then on to Zurich. Sleep in Zurich.

Day 15: Fly home from Zurich.

Thank you in advance for any ideas / suggestions you can offer. Your help is much appreciated.

-Ben

Posted by
28065 posts

I haven't been to Switzerland in ages, but I think that's a nicely varied mix of destinations. I'd be concerned about the number of hotel changes (my usual reaction to Rick's itineraries), but your family has traveled to Europe before, so I assume you know that pace will work.

Destination-wise, I'd like to see at least one extra day in Lugano. The Ticino isn't Italy, but it has a sort of Italian vibe that makes it quite different from the rest of Switzerland. I think this will be a nice change for you, especially since your family hasn't yet been to Italy itself. In addition to the attractive city of Lugano, there are short side trips to be made to nearby small towns like Gandria and Morcote (do check on current conditions; I visited more than 20 years ago). I've been through Bellinzona a number of times on the train, and it looks like a relatively non-touristy town, albeit one with a castle.

There are some good Postbus trips that can be made from Locarno, which also isn't too far from Lugano; I've done the Val Verzasca twice. As always in Switzerland, you can ride up the valley and then walk part of the way down if you want some exercise. However, traveling in July you may find the little waterfalls less than impressive.

To me, the #1 thing to do in Locarno is take the Centrovalli train trip to Domodossala in Italy, but I can't see you fitting that into your itinerary.

Posted by
5 posts

My husband and I did a Swiss rail trip last spring - we used his trip as a starting point, but decided to spend more time in fewer places. I think his trip would have been too hectic (but we're a lot older than your sons) - and we were there for a little less time. We did 2 nights in Zurich, 3 in Luzerne, 4 in Interlaken and 2 in Lausanne, going back to Zurich for another night before we left. Some of the highlights - In Interlaken, we really enjoyed the trip up to the summit of the Jungfrau, and also took a train/boat trip to Thune (interesting castle) ; it rained in Interlaken one day, so we took a day trip to Bern. In Luzerne, we went up to the top of Mt. Pilatus (cog railway - and you can also get there by cable car), and walked the city wall - great views. In Lausanne, we spent one day at Chillon, a beautiful old castle on the lake just outside Montreux (about an hour from Lausanne). The train is a great way to get around - we found good hotels within a block or two of the stations. We may go back again this year and do some other parts of the country, particularly near the Italian border.

You will be amazed and impressed by the train system - it got us everywhere we wanted to go, the trains were comfortable and clean and always, always on time. We went second class for all but one of the trips and never felt we should have upgraded.

Posted by
36 posts

Thank you both for your comments. Anyone else have any suggestions / opinions about this itinerary?

Posted by
451 posts

We went with our 7 year old who loved hiking the North Face trail, from the playground at Allmendhubel, a funicular ride above Murren. She also loved the Childrens play aread at Allmendhubel and the Children's Adventure trail down from Allmendhubel. On the opposite side of the valley above Wengen is the Mannlich to Kleinne Scheidegg hike. Here are two

Here is map for the first two hikes. http://www.gimmelwald.ch/pic/inset/wanderkarte.pdf

Here is a description of some more hikes. https://voyagista.com/2013/10/07/switzerland-hiking-bernese-oberland-top5/ The North Face Trail here is not the one I mentioned above.

Grab sandwiches before you head out for your hike.

Posted by
7209 posts

Definitely devote more time to the Berner Oberland (Murren) because there's just so many fun things to see and go. PLUS because your boys are < 16 years they travel absolutely 100% free all over Switzerland with you. The BO area has some exceptional transports with the jagged peaks of the alps all around. Those mountain transports can get expensive...especially ones like the Jungfrau. But again, your boys are 100% free on those super expensive lines. Murren, Gimmelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Stechelberg, Trummelbache Falls, Schilthorn, Grindelwald in the next valley has summer luge that I'm sure your boys could probably spend an entire day on. The little from Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken takes 20 minutes and will put you easily in Brienz (wood carvers) and Thun (fairy tale castle) and the beautiful lake boats that transport you to these destinations are wonderful.

Very near to Lucerne are the lakeside villages of Weggis and Vitznau with instant access to the Rigi and to Pilatus. Take the opportunity to rent a paddle boat or sailboat from the pier in Weggis.

Personally I would avoid those slow moving panoramic trains like the Glacier Express. Take one of the faster trains that travels on the same route/tracks.

Visit Rhine Falls very close to Zurich and take the excursion boat out to the very center of the raging falls to climb the rock in the middle.

Switzerland is full of fun and stunning landscapes that will really make you gasp.

Posted by
4853 posts

Check out our friend in Seat 61, I think he has kids so his plans should include them

Posted by
6 posts

Hello. I am planning a two week trip to Switzerland with my three kids and I have a similar question as Ben. Wondering if anyone else can weigh in.. Do you think that Rick's itinerary is too much moving around? It seems like quite a bit, but not sure what to leave off ? We are going in early June and a little concerned about the weather too. If there's anyone else who can weigh in on this, or Ben if you have heard any further information, that would be great!

Thanks,

Michelle