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Bernina Express and Jungfrau - last minute planning!

Hi,
My husband have decided to go for it with a trip to Switzerland after a week in Italy, the first week in October. We are fully vaccinated. Any advice/reactions to this very tentative itinerary appreciated! We are interested in towns not tourism/cities, local simple cuisine, midrange hotels and hikes under 6 miles. We are in our early 60s.

10/2 Train from Florence to Milan to Tirano...
Hotel recommendations near train station?
10/3 Bernina Express to Chur
Town/hotel recommendation for a night along the route?
10/4 Train Chur to Wengen
Having a hard time figuring out how long a train ride this is...SBB site says 4 hours, other searches say 12 hrs?...
Hotel recommendation for 2-3 nights in Wengen?
10/7 Train to Lausanne
stay with friend of friend for 2 nights
10/9 flight from Geneva airport 10:30am

Also, recommendation on a train pass? In addition to travel above, we need to take a train from Rome to Florence on 9/25...

Thank you for any experience you can pass along!

Posted by
5604 posts

FYI- Hopefully you don't have a connection thru Heathrow- that currently requires a quarantine in Italy.

Posted by
5604 posts

We sadly had to cancel our days in Italy because of transiting thru Heathrow.
We will be doing a similar Swiss trip soon- I hope. I think Chur to Interlaken Ost and then to Wengen will pretty much take all day, and it seems to depend on the route you take. Some routes are more scenic but longer, some have more tunnels but are quicker. There are some real experts here who might chime in. If they don't, just pose your exact question in your title. Sam and Nigel have been a wealth of train info.
Have a great trip!

Posted by
8164 posts

Last month I stayed at this nice family run hotel that I recommend in Wengen with a mountain view:
https://www.bellevue-wengen.ch/en/home.html

I also took this lift up from Wengen to Männlichen
https://www.maennlichen.ch/en/summer/information/fare-prices-from-wengen.html

From Männlichen there are some great hikes with views and places open to rest and stop off at to eat all the way to Kleine Scheidegg.
https://www.maennlichen.ch/en/summer/experiences/panorama-trail.html

I would buy the Swiss Half Fare card or Swiss Travel Pass 4 day.

Chur to Wengen is a over 4 hours with at least 4 changes of trains. Anything you saw that said 12 hours maybe because you are searching for trains running late night hours. But the great thing about Swiss Rail is that the trains are on time or do not have overly long wait times. You will notice this after leaving Italy where the trains are always late arriving and departing (at least they were 100% of the time I was there last month) enough to frustrate an organized trip.

We are interested in towns not tourism/cities

Sorry but you are going to find that Rome and Florence are crowded tourism cities.

Posted by
17427 posts

I would take the train from Milan as far as Varenna on Lake Com0, a 1-hour journey. It is a lovely town and a nicer place to stay than Tirano, and the off-season prices will not be bad. We like Albergo Milano there, with lakefront rooms and a very good restaurant for dinner. The next day, continue to Tirano and connect with the Bernina train. We have done this is early October ourselves, although in the opposite direction.

Next day take the train to one of the Swiss villages just over the Bernina Pass—-Pontresina or Samedan would be my suggestion. Pontresina is a larger but still charming alpine village/ski resort. Samedan is so small it barely can be called a village, but there are lots of hotels. We like Hotel Garni Laager there; it is basically a bakery and cafe with four rooms upstairs (one of them is a nice apartment). The price is lower than many of the other hotels around, the welcome is warm and genuine, and the breakfast baked goods are the best around.

https://www.laagers.ch/

You could go on to Chur and overnight there if you like, or continue straight to Wengen. Chur to to Wengen is 4 hours and 3 or 4 minutes for most routes (you can trust SBB on this; I don’t know where you saw 12 hours but that must be by some circuitous route). Samedan to Wengen would be 5 hours 45 minutes to 6 hours; Pontresina to Wengen 6 to 6.5 hours. Those are all by the faster route via Bern; the slower scenic route via Luzern and Brienz is well worth it if you have the inclination.

Actually (thinking as I go here), I would recommend going from Pontresina (or Samedan) past Chur to Luzern for your overnight. This journey is 4 hours 23 minutes, and sets you up to take the scenic Brunig Pass route to Wengen the following day, instead of the faster Bern route. Wengen is just 2 hours 35 minutes from Luzern. Plus Luzern is a lovely lakeside town for your overnight.

In Wengen we like Hotel Baeren which has an excellent in-house restaurant—-half board here is well worth the price. It is a 2-star hotel, quite simple but clean, modern and friendly. The food is mostly locally sourced, as much as possible anyway. If you want 3 starts, Hotel Bellevue as mentioned above is a good recommendation.

My recommendation on a train pass is get a Swiss-only pass, like the Half Fare Card suggested above, or maybe a Flex Pass or multi-day Swiss Pass, depending on how much travel you will be doing and whether your plans include the pricy Jungfraujoch trip. (If you are doing this trip, the Half-Fare Card gives you the biggest reduction in price and almost pays for itself on this trip alone). You do not want a pass that includes Italy because (a) it will not give you as much benefit in Switzerland as a Swiss-only pass and (b) you can generally do better on Italian trains by purchasing them far enough in advance to get the super-economy fares.

For Rome to Florence and Florence to Milan, you can use either Trenitalia or the newer company Italo. I recommend the latter for the more user-friendly website. https://www.italotreno.it/en

From Milan to Tirano or Varenna, you will ride a regional train that is very inexpensive and does not offer advance-purchase discounts, so you can just buy this at the Milan train station (from the machines) before departure.

Posted by
3 posts

Thank you for all this helpful information!

Am I correct in thinking if we want to spend the night in Samedan while on the Bernina Express, we would need to change trains in Pontresina - or else we would end up in St Moritz?

Posted by
17427 posts

It may depend on which Bernina Express train you are taking. Or maybe you have to change no matter what.

I never knew until now that there are two Bernina Express routes—-one between Tirano and St. Moritz (2-3 trains a day) and one between Tirano and Chur (1-2 trains per day. The trains that end at St. Moritz do not reach Samedan. The trains that go to Chur pass through Samedan, but while the route map on the website shows Samedan, the schedule does not show a stop there.

https://www.rhb.ch/en/panoramic-trains/bernina-express#c36206

I suppose Samedan could be a “request stop”—-some of the ski lifts and hotels closer to the pass are that type. But you would want to find out for sure—-and be on the right train (the through train to Chur, not the train ending at St. Moritz) before counting on that. Maybe would be safest to get off your BE at Pontresina and catch a regional train to Samedan.

When we stopped overnight in Samedan, we arrived there by regular regional train from Zurich, after a change at Landquart. We hiked the following day, and then on day 2 we had tickets for the journey from Pontresina to Tirano and beyond (Varenna), both on regional trains. We had to take one train from Samedan to Pontresina (about 3 minutes’ ride) and then board the Tirano-bound regional train there.

This was in early October, and the train was practically empty. The only others in our carriage were a young Asian couple who spoke no German nor English, but we all enjoyed pointing out the scenic delights to one another. And with the carriage so empty, we could freely move around to see the views from both sides.

Posted by
8967 posts

I recall walking from Samedan to St Moritz (level) just for fun. Its not a remote area: you can see one from the other. But I'd rather stay in Pontresina.

Posted by
1117 posts

For a hotel in Chur, we were entirely satisfied with Hotel Freieck (https://www.freieck.ch/en/). Nice place, on a quiet square in the Old Town, walking distance to the station.

For transport from Chur to Wengen, you can take trains if you wish, but we enjoyed renting a car and driving. Gave us the freedom to stop wherever looked interesting and to take some side trips (Liechtenstein, Lucerne). There is a Europcar location at Chur station, and you can drop off in Interlaken.