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Appenzell, Mürren, Luzern trip report July 20-28, 2022

My wife Alison and I just returned from a wonderful trip to the above-named towns, flying into and out of Zurich from Chicago O'Hare on non-stop flights .. We bought 8-day Swiss Travel Passes and used them for travel between and in those towns. I had downloaded the SBB mobile app which proved very useful for searching timetables and platforms for trains..

We started out by spending two nights and one full day in Appenzell, staying at the Hotel Adler. We opted to visit all three folk museums RS mentions in his guidebook. We especially enjoyed the one in Urnäsch with its focus on customs and music. The 20-minute video on celebrations in the Appenzell region was fascinating and featured 4-part (including bass) yodeling. Getting to the cheese factory and adjacent folk museum in Stein required hiring a taxi (PubliCar); the ride through the hilly countryside was interesting in itself. Later that Thursday evening we attended a concert at the KapucinerKlosterkirche (Capucin Cloister church), just past the town’s Landesgemeindeplatz (main square), from 18:30-19:30. The hotel had a printed schedule of all concerts this summer, all at that church on Thursday evenings, not at City Hall as mentioned in the RS guidebook. One of the restaurants RS mentions, the Restaurant Marktplatz, is now called AsiaChochi Restaurant Marktplatz, featuring Asian fusion cuisine as well as traditional Swiss fare. It was closed until August. We heard hardly any English spoken among the tourists around us, although we could communicate just fine with hotel, restaurant, and museum staff.

Mürren
We spent 4 nights and 3 full days in Mürren at the aptly named Hotel Bellevue. Our corner room had two balconies which provided a wonderful view of the mountains as well as of the upper reaches of the town. Our first full day the tops of the mountains were :obscured by clouds so we spent the day leisurely exploring Mürren and having a pastry lunch at Cafe Liv. The next two days proved to be sunny so on our second full day we skipped breakfast at the hotel and caught the first cable car (at 7:40, not 7:35) to the Schilthorn and ate at the revolving Piz Gloria restaurant, which we had almost to ourselves. Glorious views! Later that day we walked from Mürren to Gimmelwald for more views and a glimpse at the village that RS raves about. The path was easy to find at the intersection in "downtown" Mürren. The next day we took the first funicular up to Allmendhubel and spent some time looking around, including the flower loop trail. Alas many of the flowers highlighted were already past the blooming stage but there was enough to create interest. Later that day I hiked the trail from Grütschalp to Winteregg for more great views as well as the sights and sounds of cows grazing near the trail. There’s a cheese factory at Winteregg where one could purchase cheese and yogurt; it was obvious that the cheese source was very close by!

Our final stop was at Luzern where we spent two nights and one full day. The TI in the train station is not by Track 10 but by Track 2, just a little way down the platform from the Burger King. We stayed at the Hotel Schlüssel, a pleasant, short walk from the train station.. Dining outside along the River Reuss was quite popular but we managed to find a table at 2 different restaurants both nights. On our final day we took RS’s self-guided walking tour along the River Reuss and through the Altes Stadt (Old Town) in the morning while it was still cool and not many people out, then a 2-hour boat ride on Lake Luzern.

Takeaways: I am pleased to report that the hotels and restaurants RS recommends are still in business..The heat wave that hit Europe did not spare Switzerland; even Mürren was warm. We really enjoyed Appenzell and recommend a visit if you have the time. In addition to the SBB app, I also found the MeteoSwiss app for weather forecasts to be useful, and should have used the Google Map app more often.

Posted by
33819 posts

good report - thanks

so when you completed your stroll down to Gimmelwald, what did you think of it? Did you walk back up or take the cable car?

Posted by
32350 posts

Thanks for the trip report.

I'm glad to hear that Hotel Adler survived the pandemic. Do they still operate the bakery there? I was also able to attend a folk music concert there and really enjoyed it.

Were there many people in Gimmelwald? At this time of year, hopefully they'll be busy and I imagine both the Mountain Hostel and Gimmelwald Pensione are both operating.

Lucerne is one of my favourite places in Europe, and I sure hope I'll be able to get back there soon.

Posted by
3125 posts

Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for taking the time to report back.

Posted by
17 posts

Re Hotel Adler: I did not notice a bakery there, although there were fresh croissants and bread at breakfast. Their Little Italy restaurant is still there; we didn't dine there but had a glass of wine after the folk music concert. The group we heard consisted of keyboard, hammer dulcimer, regular size accordion, and string bass. The smaller button accordion was also used on occasion as well as three coin-in-bowl instruments of different sizes which create quite a harmonious sound. Also lots of 4-part yodeling!

Gimmelwald: there were a lot of people walking down the road to Gimmelwald when we were there (as well as a few nonmotorized bicycles huffing up the hill to Mürren!). Olle and Maria's B&B, the Mountain Hostel and Pension Gimmelwald are still there; I wanted to stop at the latter for a glass of their specialty beer but Alison was afraid of having to use a WC so we just went back to Mürren on the next cable car.

On the day we left the fog had rolled into Mürren; I don't know what the views on top of the Schilthorn would have been, but it does illustrate the importance of scheduling an extra day or two for such a contingency.

I meant to mention that there no longer is an ATM at the Schilthornbahn in Mürren. I was told the nearest one was in Stechelberg, although I believe there is also one in Lauterbrunnen. As in most of Europe these days, you hardly need cash as I used a credit card almost all the time; while they prefer the wireless tap kind, a chip will work but I doubt the swipe feature would. I withdrew 100 CHF at the Zurich airport and that was sufficient..

Posted by
18 posts

Thank you for this great report. I am in the process of planning a very similar trip for next June.
However, I may switch Appenzell with two days of relaxation on Lake Brienz (after such a long flight) and then visit Wengen and Murren (staying at Hotel Bellevue) after that.

I'm curious as to which airline you flew direct/nonstop from O'Hare. - was it Swiss Air?
I have a feeling it was. but just wanted to verify.
Could you share with us as to how the flight was? I've never flown them, but I'd be very happy to switch my alliances in order to fly nonstop.
I normally fly AA through Heathrow and then on to Zurich on BA but am nervous with all the fiasco that BA has been having lately.
Thank you so much.
Ann

Posted by
3125 posts

Ann, Swiss Air is a great airline. I have flown with them twice in the last year nonstop from Chicago to Zurich and back to Chicago. I would always chose a nonstop flight over one with connections.

Posted by
17 posts

As another person replied, we flew Swiss Air. I'd be reluctant to fly through Heathrow given recent problems they had this summer. Food and drink were great, including Swiss beer (Appenzeller bier on the way home!) and French wine. One down side was we were forced to check our bags even though we had RS rolling backpacks which are designed for carryon luggage. Maybe if we had more expensive seats we would have been allowed to carry them on board, or if we had packed even more minimally than we did.. Fortunately our bags showed up both ways. We also opted for selecting seats for a slight fee; that way we got window/aisle seats rather than in the middle. Allow 3 hours both ways for checkin, security, and, in Zurich, for going through Passport Control. That airport is the most labyrinthine I've seen!

Posted by
464 posts

Sounds like a wonderful trip. Hopefully you can try the Pension Gimmelwald beer (Schwartz Monch) next time. It is delicious!