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14 day trip report Mostly Hiking in the BO in early September

My husband and I just returned from a 14 night stay mostly in the BO...and it was an enormous success in large part due to all the information I have found on this forum...so thank you. We're both 70 and in very good health and hiked mostly 'difficulty 2' hikes...which turned into 6-8 miles a day of hiking and walking.

Day 1: Fly into Geneva (from Newark) and take the train to Vevey and plop down for the night at the Astra Hotel. Walk around Vevey. Have paninis and beers by the water. Two breakfasts at Le Carre (oh the pancakes!!!)
Day 2: Train (3 hours with 3 transfers) to Murren for 5 nights and stay at the newly renovated Drei Berge Hotel (Oh we loved it!). I booked early and got a corner room with magnificent views and 2 balconies. Food was amazing. Staff was darling.

walk down to Gimmelwald and train back. (Paved but a big decline downward....was a little too much for day 1. Very steep)
Day 3: * North Face trail. Honestly, not well marked but we loved it. (we weren't the only ones confused) Trail went right through the terrace of a restuarant!
Day 4: * Mountain View Hike. (I suggest reversing this and start in Gruschalp. Uphill seemed easier.)
Day 5: * Up to Schilthorn/Birg and had tea and a snack at Plz Gloria
Day 6: * Gondola to Lauterbrunner. Walk along River. Trummelbach Falls. Lunch at Horner Pub. Lift home from Lauterbrunner.
Day 7 Train to Wengen and check into Hotel Berghaus. (5 night stay)(they picked us up at train station with advance notice) We also loved Hotel Berghaus. Run by Martina, the owner, who was lovely. Another corner room with 2 balconies and lovely view across a field with mountains in the back drop. Got the half board every night and loved it! Had a beer and the nachos at Crystal Bar in Wengen. Then took the gondola to Mannlichen to look around.
Day 8 *Gondola to Männlichen. Hike to Royal Crown. Then hike down to Kleine Scheidegg. Lunch at restaurant. Hike to Wengenalp and train home.
Day 9 * Top of the World Tour....up to the Jungfrau. Loved it! It's cold up there! Had a beer and chips at the restaurant in Mannlichen. Paid 5 francs for the ride above the gondola down to Wengen and loved it. Did Rick Steves' Wengen walk after dinner and saw the chamois. They jump high!
Day 10
2 long walks around Wengen to Allmend and to Staubbachbankli with a picnic lunch with a few alpacas. There was big race going on around town which was fun.
Day 11 3 hour train ride then bus to Chexbres Villages to stay at Baron Tavernier ....THIS WAS A WONDERFUL ALTERNATIVE TO STAYING IN Montreaux or Vevey. Again, I booked early and got the junior suite (felt like a queen) with a full view of the magnificent Lake Geneva. One night we walked in town to Three Brothers for pizza. One night dinner at Le Deck. And one night drinks and snacks at the bar at Le Deck. The breakfasts there were $25 each and worth every penny.

Day 12 30 min train to Montreaux for a half day tour with Ana-Maria Mitchell ([email protected]). She lead us through the old part of Montreaux and gave us a simple and well researched history of Montreaux. Then we walked the promenade. Stopped in at the Queen museum. And she said good-bye as we got ready to tour the Chillon Castle. She is just lovely and gave us so many interesting tidbits about the area. We really enjoyed her company. I highly recommend her.
Day 13 Train to St. Saphorin and walked around town and saw the church. Walked the vineyards. Train back to Vevey and had another panini and ate at a small picnic area right by the water...just lovely.
Day 14 Fly home
So, we decided to split our 10 nights between Murren and Wengen - 5 nights each and that worked out great for us. We had the initial 'flop night' in Vevey upon arrival. Then the last 3 nights at Baron Tavernier in Chexbres. AMAZING TRIP! Thank you all again. (Oh, and we got the 10 day BO pass)

Posted by
272 posts

Thanks for your report. Sounds like a wonderful trip!

Posted by
11775 posts

You did so much ! I agree the Mountain View is a lot of downhill. My knees and hips cannot take it any more. (Not sure I want to go uphill there, either!) We do a modified version and turn off toward Winteregg and stop there. Still great views and not so many people.

Will you be back?

Posted by
3125 posts

Wow, what a great trip you had!!! Thanks for taking the time to report back and share your experience.

St. Saphorin was one of my favorite places last year. So, I’m happy to see it mentioned.

Posted by
73 posts

Level 2 was in reference to online ratings and we got the book "Walking in Switzerland's Berner Oberland" by Laurie and Richard Barton. She uses that rating system...meaning I'm guessing, hiking boots and walking sticks, and some parts of trail you need to be careful. There were roots to navigate around....nothing you can't do if you're careful. But, after doing level 2....we had no interest in a level 3! Our only interest was in lying down for an hour and having a beer! (we did read Rick Steve's opinion on the difficulty of certain hikes too. But he didn't use a number system.

Posted by
350 posts

Hats off! Well done. There is no better way to see a country than hiking it!

Posted by
2493 posts

Level 2 was in reference to online ratings and we got the book
"Walking in Switzerland's Berner Oberland" by Laurie and Richard
Barton. She uses that rating system...meaning I'm guessing, hiking
boots and walking sticks, and some parts of trail you need to be
careful.

The levels probably refer to the SAC scale. 1 are the normal hiking paths marked in yellow. 2 and 3 are mountain trails, marked in white/red. 2 is not that much harder than 1, the main difference being that there could be some tricke spots that require you to be sure footed (and not to afraid of heights)
4 to 6 are alpine routes. These are marked (when they are) in blue-white. I have only ever done such trails with a guide, when I was a lot younger.

Nice to hear you had a good time. The Berghaus is a nice place, and we have lunch there sometimes. Martina is indeed a loverly host, and it is nice watching her kids. What a place to grow up in.

Posted by
10621 posts

It's so nice to read about your trip. We spent a week at the Berghaus in early August, in what sounds like the same room, and with half board, too. It was lovely. I don't like wasting time looking for restaurants when there is a good chef and server where we're staying. We have the same fondness and admiration for Martina.

I hope to be back next year, a mountain escape from the heat for us.

Posted by
11775 posts

The levels probably refer to the SAC scale

Actually, we made up our own “Easy Hiker” scale since we focus on activity for people with children, people of our age and ability 😊, and people who are a bit intimidated by “hiking” as described in more ambitious guidebooks.

Level 1: Promenade – Paved or partly paved and mostly level or minimal elevation changes; well-signed and generally suitable for everyone and often for prams as well.

Level 2: Easy hike – Unpaved, crossing hills or mountain terrain, some ups and downs, or may have minimal signage.

Level 3: Extra Energy – More exertion required due to length or extended uphill segments; may have loose gravel or moderately tricky footing.

Thanks, matureandtravels!

Posted by
2 posts

Great to read about your stay in Murren and Wengen. My daughter and I will be staying 3 nights in Murren in the first week of October. Wondering if it is difficult to get to and from Murren? We will be traveling from Lucerne, then leaving and heading to Verona, Italy. Did you purchase the Berner Oberland pass?

Posted by
73 posts

Christina: We went to Murren from a different direction - from Lake Geneva. And, it was a 3 hour train ride with 3 connections. So, a little tiresome. I think coming from Lucerne might be easier though. Check the website for the trains....(SBB) They tell you everything you need to know. And, when you do change trains, the signage is VERY clear at the train station. Definitely go! It's absolutely stunning !

Posted by
11569 posts

We usually enter Switzerland from Italy which has worked well for us. We always rent a car in Europe.

Posted by
444 posts

This looks wonderful! I am planning a trip for next September and have allocated 3 nights in the BO area. I am undecided about staying in Lauterbrunnen or Wengen-if you had to choose one, what would it be? We will be coming from Lucerne. Also-what hikes were your favorite? We will probably only be able to fit in two. Thanks in advance! :)

Posted by
11775 posts

Ferrin, if you start a new thread, you will receive answers directly to your inbox and the OP here won’t be inundated with advice meant for you.

Posted by
881 posts

Thank you for your great report. We are planning to visit that area in June 2024. I’m glad the Drei Berge worked out as I’ve been following comments about the change in owners.

Posted by
5604 posts

Thanks for sharing. I'm also watching the evolution of the former Hotel Bellevue in Murren. Did the construction noise in Murren bother you at all?
I hope to return again soon. Safe travels!

Posted by
146 posts

@ferin - We recently finished a say in Wengen for a week (rented an apartment). We definitely preferred it over Lauterbrunnen as Lauterbrunnen has a lot of car traffic through the main road and is full of tourists. Wengen only has the small hotel shuttles and maintenance vehicles. It’s a very short train ride to Lauterbrunnen which gives you access to many of the popular areas. Our favorite hikes were the North face hike and the walk from Gruschlap to Murren. The Lauterbrunnen valley walk is also very nice and can be done in stages if time is a constraint. Watching the base jumpers were a high light! Murren is also very nice - the construction of the new gondola increased the construction traffic in town which took some of the charm away IMHO, but it is a great location. Gimmelwald is a gem if you prefer a small quiet quaint village.

Posted by
73 posts

The noise was no problem at all at Drei Berge Hotel.
Ferrin: I would highly recommend Wengen over Lauterbrunnen. I forget which hike was best. Sorry