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Wining, Dining, Hiking, and Cycling Down Barcelona, Valencia, and Alicante

Hi all,

TL;DR: Food + wine + some cycling and football watching: Barcelona, Valencia, Alicante, or Toledo, Valencia, Alicante? Or something else entirely?

I've been trying to use as many sources as possible in my research, but I'm feeling a bit lost right now. I am planning on traveling to Spain for 2+ weeks in June 2018. I am really flexible on the dates, so I'm letting the price of flights dictate a lot of when I go, and where to some degree too. Essentially, I seem to have 2 main options, although as I type this and confirm prices of flights, some variations seem to be popping up that I haven't considered before.

  1. Fly into MAD (from East Coast US), stay for a day or two, go to Toledo for around a week, then take a train to Valencia, splitting my remaining week between Valencia and Alicante. Fly out of MAD or ALC (probably MAD). This would probably be the cheapest, going in and out of Madrid.

  2. Fly into BCN, stay in Barcelona for a day or two, take the train down to Valencia for a week, and Alicante for another week. Fly out of ALC, or possibly MAD. This would probably be $100-$150 more expensive than flying into and out of MAD, but I’d do it if it was truly better.

So why have I made these decisions so far? Well, let me shed some light on my situation, and in return I hope you guys can tell me if I‘m on the right track or not.

-I’m traveling alone, and won’t have access to a rental car. I live in a city, so I’m pretty street smart and don’t mind walking far, or taking public transit.

-Most importantly, I’m someone that really doesn’t like many “touristy” places, home or abroad. I personally just don’t like being constantly surrounded by throngs of other tourists at large resort hotels and going to restaurants that have menus in 30 languages. I like to go to the hole-in-the-wall places that the locals eat at, and generally try to blend in much of the time.

-I’m planning on staying mostly in Airbnbs, which seem to be cheaper in Valencia, Alicante, and Toledo than Barcelona and Madrid.

-My main focus is on trying the local food and drinks. I want to go on one winery tour, preferably for a single day. I honestly don’t mind too much what region that takes place in, as I’ll be trying other wines as much as I (responsibly) can while traveling everywhere else.

-I would be up for some hiking, cycling, any kinds of breweries/distilleries, and some museums. I also like some non-crowded beaches (I know, doesn’t everyone?), and the Army Museum in Toledo looked interesting, but neither of these are must-dos.

-One of the main decisions that is really driving my plan is that I have an irrationally strong desire to try paella. And I’ve heard that to try good paella, one should really go to Valencia or the surrounding area. Additionally, I’m not that interested in taking a long mid-trip journey across the entire country unless it’s really worth it. If you can convince me that cuisine in other parts is more worthwhile than paella, then I could be convinced to flip my whole plan around to Northern Spain

My big questions:

-I’ve been having trouble finding good, less expensive ($100-$150ish) winery tours out of Madrid, although I just saw a recommendation for Spanish Trails, who does tours out of both Madrid and Barcelona. Is this a good company? Any other recommendations?

-Given my criteria, how worthwhile are any of the cities I listed? I feel like I wouldn’t be able to stay in Barcelona long regardless, since it’s more expensive, and I don’t (think) I have much desire to see lots of Madrid, but is Alicante worth it? Toledo? Even Valencia? What would be better places, say, in Northern Spain? I handle heat pretty well, and could do Southern Spain, but I feel like the North would just be more pleasant. Also, San Sebastian and Bilbao seem to fall in the too-expensive-to-stay-long categories.

I can post more info as needed, but I'm at my character limit right now. Thanks!

Posted by
27112 posts

Assuming this is your first trip to Spain, neither Valencia nor Alicante would be anywhere near my list of suggested stops. I still haven't been motivated to go to either one after four trips to Spain (totaling about 4 months).

These are just some random thoughts, because I'm struggling to think of out-of-the-way places that might appeal to you, be reasonably economical to visit and be accessible from one of the major international airports.

People have had some positive things to say about Valencia on this board, but it's not Barcelona/Catalunya, Madrid, Toledo, Granada, Seville, Cordoba, the Basque Country or Galicia. I can't say how easy it will be to find really good paella outside Valencia. Or even in Valencia, for that matter.

I fear that Almeria may be a package-tour destination, but I am not certain about that.

I love Barcelona, but it must be admitted that it gets huge numbers of tourists, so you might not enjoy it much, despite its fabulous sights (many of which sort of require advance purchase of timed tickets). The city has been moving toward enforcing some sort of limitations on Airbnb rentals; perhaps that is contributing to higher costs.

Toledo is a favorite of mine, and I was happy to spend three nights there. It has a large historic district, but a week would be rather a long time for a first-time tourist to stay there. It's on a spur railway line connected only to Madrid, so it's not a convenient base for a bunch of side trips. There's heavy day-tripper traffic to Toledo, though it seemed mostly confined to the path between Zocodover Square and the Cathedral.

The northern stretch of Spain does tend to have very pleasant temperatures in the summer. The La Rioja wine country is not too far from the very attractive, non-touristy city of Vitoria-Gasteiz (not a place full of cheap hotels, alas), but I don't know about tours or how you would get around without a rental car. And I know zilch about wine. The Basque Country is known for its food.

You might enjoy a trip that combined the Basque Country (if you could solve the costly-lodging issue) with the Pyrenees, but I have no idea what the public transportation would be like in the Pyrenees. It's workable in the Basque Country. Or perhaps some of the smaller places in the flatter part of Catalunya would work: Vic, Ripoll and the like. I like Girona a lot, but hotels there are not particularly cheap; don't know about Airbnb possibilities. Girona is a good base for some nice day-trips by bus.

Posted by
375 posts

Madrid, IMO, is less touristy than Barcelona. We stayed in a nice, off the beaten track neighborhood (at Costanilla de los Desamaparados 4).

So Madrid might be a good place to start.

Here's an article from the Irish Times about Valencia. And one about Alicante, which sounds cool...I can't wait to travel to see some of that area's Moors influence!

Sounds like with your "open to adventure attitude" coupled with the idea that -- Hey I'm in Spain! -- you'll have a great time no matter where you choose.

Posted by
124 posts

Based on your dislike of throngs of tourists (I agree but we're tourists, too), and your "desire to see lots of Madrid," a city I enjoy and will be back to visit this June myself, I recommend you fly in and out of Madrid. Stay a couple of nights in Toledo, also very interesting (and you will get plenty of exercise in that hilly city). Why not add Alcalá de Henares as a day trip, a very short train ride northeast from Madrid? It has fewer tourists than other day trip cities such as Toledo or Segovia. Alcalá de Henares is an old university town, and has a few good sites and good food, enough for a day. The historic university had an interesting history but was transferred to Madrid in 1836. Many of the old buildings still remain; some are now restaurants and hotels. The Colegío de San Ildefonso building was preserved and can be visited. It has a 1543 Plateresque façade and a three-tiered patio still used for some ceremonies.
The town also has the Museo Casa Cervantes, for fans of the famous author.
Then go to Valencia for a few days. Back to Madrid for a couple of days and fly out.

Posted by
27112 posts

A second vote for Alcala de Henares; don't know why I didn't think of it myself--maybe because I was trying to think of spots that would be cooler than the Madrid area. I didn't hear any English on the street in AdeH in late May 2016. And it's very quick to reach via frequent commuter trains from Madrid; they even run on Sundays!

Posted by
2 posts

GoodmanTX - thank you for the info, I will take a look. I'm afraid I might've misled you though - I was trying to say that I don't necessarily have to see Madrid. I admit my phrasing was confusing, and I even misread it the first time I went back to check what I wrote. I'm not necessarily avoiding Madrid, it's just not as high on my list as I feel it might be for many other people, being the capital of Spain and all. Would that change your suggestion at all? I saw someone else plugged it, so I guess I should take another look at the city regardless.

Posted by
27112 posts

Madrid is simply not as old as many other cities in Spain, so it lacks a medieval center. However, it has great art museums and very lively streets. And lots of Madrid's architecture is plenty old by US standards. It doesn't seem to have as high a ratio of tourists to residents as Barcelona does. (I'd say there's a reason for that, but YMMV.) And it's a great base for day-trips. The problem is that lodging in Madrid isn't particularly cheap, so staying there primarily to visit surrounding towns may not be a great move, economically.

Posted by
124 posts

If I am interpreting you correctly, you want to reduce costs, enjoy food and wine, be somewhat physically active but not rushed.
I would still fly in and out of Madrid, but you don't have to spend the whole two weeks there, nor do you have to stay in the center of the city. Look towards other areas still served by the metro or bus for easy transportation, but research the neighborhood before booking. Madrid will also be a great place to watch some fútbol (two teams, both recent league champions), but other cities, including Valencia, have teams as well. Consider renting in Madrid at the beginning and end of your trip and staying elsewhere on your excursions (if you pack light and don't mind changing hotels frequently), only going back to Madrid to change trains. Staying the night in smaller towns will also give you a different perspective on your travels. The chance of renting a bicycle outside of large cities may be unlikely, but you can always walk the countryside. There are many nice neighborhoods in Madrid to cycle through.
I haven't been to a wine tasting or visited any vineyards in Spain, although I've seen them all over from a train or bus. The Rioja region to the north is most famous for them. Perhaps someone else can help you.
Also check out Rick Steves' guidebook on Spain and websites like TripAdvisor for ideas and sites in surrounding towns.
Relax and enjoy your trip.