Other than the Valencia Easter processions (we have heavily researched) does anyone have tips for 2 retired adults who embrace the Rick Steves Way of living like a local? Hidden gems preferred over trampled destinations. :-) Thank you
Cuenca, about 1 hr east of Valencia on the AVE high speed train has some of the most spectacular Semana Santa festivities in all of Spain. Cuenca itself is a charming medieval town built on the side of a precipitous cliff, the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
More on Cuenca and the surrounding nature area: https://www.spain.info/en/discover-spain/weekend-in-cuenca-and-its-natural-surroundings/
Cuenca's great. It has a couple of small modern-art museums. The AVE tickets from Valencia to Cuenca can get very pricey, and the regional trains are too slow for a day trip. Therefore, I'd recommend checking on fares to Cuenca now and buying tickets if you see bargains (compared to fares for tomorrow and Monday) and want to go there.
Although I definitely consider Teruel a hidden gem (it's a regional capital, but on a secondary rail line and pretty much forgotten), it's really too far for a day trip (2-1/2 hours or so by train), and I think service is very infrequent. Furthermore, I can't get renfe.com to cough up a train schedule for that trip. I don't know what's going on there.
Two blocks up from the modern art gallery is a combination anthropology museum and contemporary exhibit centre that I think qualifies.
Carlos, gracias for the suggestion. We are looking at a day trip on that Holy Thursday. Any tips on things like restaurants and shops being closed on that day? We can check museum hours online but the fabric of local life doesn’t always have a webpage. :-)
And to acraven and avirosemail, we appreciate the extra insights. Exploring all options now!
When I was much younger I actually marched as a penitent (pointy hat and all) as part of a Semana Santa procession in Cuenca. It's been a while since I've been back, so COVID might have changed some things. I remember most stores and restaurants were open back then.
On the other side of the Casas Colgadas, across the San Pablo bridge is the Parador de Cuenca set in a former monastery, there they have a very good restaurant serving elevated Manchego cuisine with local ingredients. You might want to reserve a table just in case.
Hope this helps :)
Charlene, I do hope you’ll post a trip report. We’re considering spending part of Holy Week in Valencia in 2023, and will be eager to hear about your experience. What days will you be there and what does the rest of your itinerary look like? I’m a bit worried that the city will be too busy to enjoy but perhaps it will be fine. What does your research suggest?
Thanks for your help! I hope you have a great time!