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Val de Boí Romanesque Churches

Hello all,
Has anyone here visited the Romanesque churches on this route? I would love to, but it seems to be a remote area and involves a 28km hike to see all nine churches. While I hate tours, this may be one situation where I have to give in. Not a lot on the web, therefore suggestions regarding nearby 'bases' and tours that you may have taken are very welcome. If I go, it it be late May or early June.
Thanks!

Posted by
3348 posts

Mind me, as far as I know, there aren’t “tours” that cover them all like a Viator-style trip where you’re picked up by bus and driven from site to site. Visitors usually arrive on their own, visit one church, then drive to the next, and so on. Yet, I might be wrong. Keep searching.

Also, keep in mind that we’re talking about (mostly) small churches, over 1,000 years old and tucked away in remote locations. This is really an experience for niche visitors; you need a genuine interest in Visigothic and Romanesque architecture, otherwise the effort might feel disproportionate. But it’s worth remembering: you’re not just visiting a “church,” you’re stepping into a piece of ancient history that shaped Europe -and the Western world- for centuries to come. Their influence is largely cultural and foundational, laying the groundwork for later European cohesion, architecture, and identity.

Enjoy!

Posted by
475 posts

Thanks for the insight. Just so you know, I am very aware of pre-Romanesque and Romanesque architecture and its importance in the Western European cultural and artistic tradition. While I am not an art/architecture scholar, I know exactly what I like to experience on my travels. As a matter of fact, my travel interests have narrowed to a point where I seek out only the above architectural style and generally ignore everything else besides Baroque. Also, anything with 'neo' attached. Therefore, my question is really about the logistics of reaching these sites. My limitations are public transportation and a lack of serious hiking ability. If these two conditions preclude me from visiting these places, then I will have to accept begrudgingly.

Posted by
3348 posts

Great, so you fit this niche visitor category then.

Can you drive? Renting a car would solve all these logistical problems and allow you to expand the radius of your visit and make this goal relatively easy, as distances here in Catalonia are relatively short. Keep in mind that the whole of Catalonia is the size of Maryland, give or take. Otherwise, I am not sure how to help you since, as mentioned, reaching some of these isolated churches is not possible by public transportation.

Posted by
3348 posts

These are not Vall de Boí, of course, but here some other great Romanesque examples that can be reached by public transportation elsewhere in Catalonia.

Barcelona and surroundings
Sant Pau del Camp (Barcelona) – In El Raval. Metro L3 (Liceu or Drassanes) + a few minutes’ walk.
Monastery of Sant Cugat (Sant Cugat del Vallès) – FGC train from Plaça Catalunya, lines S1 or S2 to Sant Cugat.

Girona area
Sant Pere de Galligants (Girona) – 10-minute walk from Girona train station.
Monastery of Sant Miquel de Cruïlles – Local buses from Cruïlles; easier by bike if you like cycling.

Osona / Ripollès
Monastery of Ripoll (Ripoll) – Rodalies R3 train from Barcelona; station 5 minutes’ walk from the monastery.
Sant Joan de les Abadesses – Also Rodalies R3, station about 10 minutes’ walk from the town center.

Lleida area
La Seu Vella (Lleida) – Urban bus from the train station; 15-minute uphill walk to the cathedral.
Sant Llorenç de Morunys – Intercity buses from Solsona; less frequent.

Tarragona area
Sant Miquel d’Escornalbou – Buses from Montblanc; combination of Rodalies train + bus needed.
Santa Maria de Poblet (Monastery of Poblet) – Train Rodalies to Vila-seca or Montblanc + bus; fairly well connected though not direct.

Two of my preferred are the monasteries of Sant Cugat del Vallès (near Barcelona) and Santa Maria de Poblet, in both you can find most of the royal and noble burials of Catalonia of that historical period.

Posted by
475 posts

Thank you, Enric, for the exhaustive information.

Still in the early stages of planning. My 3rd visit, so the intention is to go to places that I bypassed previously. Right now considering Santiago de Compostela, Leon, Zamora, and Soria. If I can make Val de Boi work for me without driving - great. If not too bad. I have been to Barcelona and Girona, but I will explore the other places on your list.

Posted by
8248 posts

My experience is that many of the small Romanesque churches are in out of the way locations where there is little to no public transportation. Since I always rent a vehicle, it hasn’t been a problem getting to the ones I’ve wanted to see.

If you make it to Soria you may enjoy the Baroque Ermita de San Saturio and Romanesque ruins Monasterio de San Juan de Duero. San Juan de Duero is just across the river from the historic center. For San Saturio, it too is across the river but there’s about a half mile walk to reach it from the road/parking area.

In León, the cathedral and Basílica de San Isidoro meet your requirements. No photos were allowed in the basilica. In Santiago, it’s all about the cathedral. I can’t think of any Romanesque or Baroque churches in Zamora, but I thoroughly enjoyed the city the couple nights we were there.

Thanks for your question. I’ve bookmarked the churches so I can stop and see them next time I’m in that area.

Posted by
553 posts

We visited Boi/Taull. There is a ticket that gets you into five churches. We had a car I can’t imagine hiking. I am a fan of all things Romanesque. No need for a tour. This site should get you started:
https://www.vallboi.cat/en. The Pyrenees are wonderful.
Brad

Posted by
982 posts

The province of Palencia holds the biggest number of Romanesque churches in Europe. I´ve visited most of them, but it´s true you´ll need a car or a bike (did part of this route with friends on a 5-day bike tour). Some info here, https://www.diputaciondepalencia.es/sitio/turismo/rutas-culturales/rutas-romanico, or here https://www.arteguias.com/romanico_palencia.htm and here in English, https://www.turismocastillayleon.com/en/heritage-culture/romanesque-palencia. One of the least known provinces in Spain, but one of my favorites.

Posted by
475 posts

Thank you for all the information! Now I'll have to figure out what's achievable with my restrictions.