Here is another person who rather dislikes the article from Rick.
One, it was written at least 20-25 years ago with only an update on the numbers. He posted it last year with the number of pilgrims at 150,00 or so. I complained on FB about it. Last year, it was 460,000 that walked into Santiago and got a Compestela. Lots of people do not get them, because they just sit on your shelf at home after you have 2-3 of them. Why bother? You did the journey, that is all that counts. They are expecting the number to break 500,000 this year. I was one of them.
The article is just awful. No one wears a cape or carries a gourd to drink out of. His comments about the woman from Berlin are out of line and just plain goofy. All of his comments about the pilgrims are just some sort of made up cliches.
So, yes, he needs to come walk it at least for a week, and not that last 100km. Or, he could interview some of us who HAVE walked it for accurate information. He has a Basque guide (Fran) who knows all about it, so why doesn't he ask him?
For the Botafumeiro, I have seen it swing several times at the early morning mass, as well as at noon and in the evenings. Hardly anyone there in the morning though. Sit in the side naves, where the ropes are tied up on the pillar. If it swings, you have the best view of all. I have gotten fabulous videos of this, because no one was there! Groups pay for this, and they are often at those early morning masses. In 2 days this past May, saw it 3 times. It swings on holy days and when ever a group pays for it. (costs about 500€)