Tentative plans for 2023 trip

I can't address your concern about Semana Santa in Valencia with any specificity, but I can report that even in Seville most sights were open most of the time during Semana Santa 2019. The local tourist offices in Andalucia, at least, put together summary lists of the planned opening hours of their sights for Semana Santa, which can be rather different from usual, so it was possible to plan with quite good accuracy. Yes, sightseeing was slowed down to some degree because of the abbreviated hours (sometimes requiring two sightseeing visits to the same part of the city rather than one) and the blockage of streets for processions. However, with five days in Valencia I believe you'll have plenty of time to accomplish your sightseeing goals.

The one thing I noticed was that access to some churches was restricted or even impossible for a day or more at a time. I think that was happening at churches where processions were to originate, and they were putting together the things (I don't know the correct term) to be carried through the streets. So if there are specific churches you especially want to see, that's something I'd check on immediately after arrival so you can squeeze in a visit when it's possible to do so.

Also be aware that Semana Santa might be the time when sights switch from their winter schedule to their summer schedule. Perhaps the change is not so significant outside Andalucia, but down there, you can suddenly be faced with very long afternoon closures. As early as Easter falls in 2023, that pattern may not prevail during your visit. I think in 2019 the change took place right after Semana Santa, but Easter was much later that year.

Edited to add: I love the idea of three nights in Toledo. It is spectacular. Check out the secondary sights for which there's a combo ticket--a bracelet that I had no trouble keeping on my wrist for two days. At the time of my 2016 visit to Toledo, most of those sights offered short, bilingual tours I found worthwhile.

Thank you for the input! Yes, we encountered lots of closed churches in Andalucia in 2017 so I was prepared for a bit of that. I rather liked the siesta as it allowed us to rest so we could stay out a bit later at night when Spain is so very lively.

I’m glad you support three nights in Toledo. My husband and I aren’t quite slow travelers but not fast ones either. I tend to err on the less is more side of travel., especially in places that are rather crowded by day.

Holy week in Arcos gets my vote! They run bulls, the locals dance on the roof tops and sing, just so much fun. Much more low key than Seville, however enough to feel very special. J

The other thing about Toledo is that the historic area is not only large but also rather hilly, so you can spend a lot of time just reveling in the architectural beauty, and "moseying along" may be the most comfortable rate of speed.