My husband and I will be taking RS Basque Country tour Sept 8-16. After the tour ends in Bilbao, we are considering going west along the Atlantic Ocean coastline. Most all articles I have read indicate a car is mandatory as you go through Asturia, Cantabria, and Galicia but *we will definitely NOT drive*. However, I have read that Renfe's FEVE train covers this stretch. Some report it as incredibly slow and boring but others just mention it more in passing.
We are retired and could make it leisurely, taking 10 or 12 days or more, and stopping for a few days at different places that might be interesting. Has anyone actually done this? Is it feasible? Is it pleasant or a bit of a hassle, for example, getting from the train station to the towns/villages? Does it run along the ocean in many spots? Is the scenery interesting? As I said, we will not drive so if this route isn't really feasible or very pleasant on FEVE, we will need to change our plans. We haven't bought airline tickets yet so we are fairly flexible. We have covered much of Spain and France in the past but this northern area of Spain would be new to us - thus, our interest! Thank you for any information you can provide. Elle
Posted by
Brisbane, Australia
7175 posts
I can't get the Renfe or feve websites to work down here in Australia, but that poor reputation is common knowledge.
Try ALSA Buses ...
Bilbao >> Santander >> Oviedo >> Lugo >> Santiago de Compostela.
Flights to some of Europe's major airports are available from Santiago de Compostela.
Posted by
Washington DC
28084 posts
I took FEVE from Bilbao to San Sebastian, and it was a very, very scenic ride (but mostly if not exclusively through dramatic inland country, not coastal). It took far longer than the bus, but it was definitely worth it to me, since I had a lot of time. I also took FEVE from SS to the small coastal village of Zarautz, but I don't remember what route it took. I don't think this was a segment of the route to Bilbao. I realize that this is not the direction in which you'll be heading, however.
I traveled all the way to the west coast of Galicia but am struggling to think of another FEVE trip. Nonetheless, I had no car and had a wonderful trip. I used a combination of buses and regular trains, depending upon what worked best for each travel leg. I went to some small coastal towns on day-trips (usually by bus) but spent the night only in bigger places.
I doubt that I ever bought a bus or train ticket more than 36 hours in advance, and often it was right before I hopped on the bus or train. I did run into one bus that was sold out, and I had to wait an extra hour before moving on. FEVE trains do not have assigned seats (and I should mention that the seats themselves are not particularly comfortable for longer rides--at least some are just hard plastic), so there is no reason whatsoever to buy FEVE tickets in advance. I doubt that you can do so, other than by walking into a FEVE station. If you do that, be sure you're not buying a ticket for the current day if that's not what you want. I know you can generally buy the FEVE tickets from vending machines. I am not at all sure that they even have staffed ticket windows.
I'm sorry that I can't comment on the scenery along FEVE's coastal legs. You might check YouTube for videos. In addition, there's a company that (I assume) uses the FEVE tracks to run a fairly high-priced tourist train in the area, the El Transcantabrico. There may be useful information on its website that would help you figure out how scenic some stretches will be, and the areas where the train runs along the coast. Actually, a good map of Spain should include rail lines (typically a single black line). Close examination will probably allow you to identify some stretches that definitely do not run along the coast, though in others it may not be clear.
In Googling for the name of that train, I got a link to a Telegraph (UK) Q&A you should read. The title is "Spain by Train: Riding the Narrow-Gauge FEVE Railway". If you Google for that title, you should find it immediately. I'm traveling with a tablet and don't know how to copy and paste links on it.
I sort of think you'd have a more interesting trip if you also included some of the lovely inland cities, as I did. You can usually link them by regular train, then bus to the coast. There are also buses along the coast in some areas.
Inland cities I would be happy to visit again are Oviedo, Burgos, Leon, Vitoria-Gasteiz, and Santiago de Compostela. The smaller Astorga and Comillas are also worthwhile if you're interested in modernista architecture, but I wouldn't base myself in such a small place.
I was less than entranced by the perfectly OK but mostly mid-20th century coastal city of Santander, but it's an excellent base for Santillana del Mar (charming but not truly on the coast), Comillas, and the prehistoric sites. But the latter may not be viable by public transportation, especially in September.
Gijon is a major coastal city not far from Oviedo. It has an old historic district as well as a lot of handsome early-20th century buildings. I'd have been happy to have a full day there, I think.
Posted by
OP
MIdwest
43 posts
Thanks so much for your replies. I have found this website: https://www.tripsavvy.com/bus-and-train-travel-in-spain-1644628 which others may be interested also. It seems to have lots of information on Spain, including information about transportation. I am more of a free spirit regarding traveling, but my husband likes structure. So, I'm not sure what my final itinerary will be, but thank you!
Posted by
Washington DC
28084 posts
If you do end up taking FEVE west from Bilbao, please come back and tell us how it went.