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Taking a Rick Steves Tour with Celiac, eating strictly gluten free. Tough but do-able.

We just returned from the Best of Spain tour with guide Francisco Glaria. I have celiac so must eat STRICTLY gluten free - none of that "bread is different" in Europe for me, so please don't tell me otherwise. I wanted to share my experience for others and share some restaurants that we found. I did so much research before we left, so it may save some time. I felt unwell a handful of times during tour, and dealt with it but nothing that kept me from participating (I'm home and healing now) so I don't think it's 100% possible to go on a tour without getting some kind of gluten contamination. The breakfasts were the hardest... I had to be #1 in line every time, or very pushy to get to the meat and eggs before touched. Buffets are the worst / trickiest. One of the hotels was terrible and I had to eat my own food just because they would put bread directly over the eggs and meat/cheese platters, so crumbs everywhere. But the next day she set plate aside for me and had a gluten free baguette, with our tour guides assistance. If you are wondering why I signed up for a tour with this need... I was diagnosed after we signed up for the tour, and paid for plane tickets and everything. I was diagnosed about 10 months ago.

Francisco was amazing at advocating for me at the meals. I wouldn't have survived without him. He is very empathetic as he has some allergies himself. I don't know if I'll be able to take another tour again though, as It was stressful throughout always wondering if I am eating foods that aren't cross contaminated with wheat since the tour restaurants and breakfasts were not gluten free... although I have to say, Spain is great with allergies! They know so much more than we do in the US. The GF restaurants that I visited had clearly marked menus, and I was asked if I had any allergies when seated.

Here's where I had good experiences during our own time with food:
Barcelona -
1. Messié Pizza Gluten Free Gràcia
2. ARUKU Sin Gluten Sushi Gluten Free (near sagrada familia)
3. En Ville - we did not make our reservation due to late flight but this is a highly rated restaurant among celiac people.

Madrid -
1. Churrería Chocolateria 1902 - they have a separate area to make GF churros.
2. Naked & Sated Preciados - food was good but service not that nice and they forgot my desert in our take away. Make sure you have a reservation even for lunch if you want to sit. They only took spanish speaking individuals who did not have a reservation. (snobby)
3. Holy Grain - Bakery with really good pastries in Madrid. 100% GF
4. Walk and eat Tapas tour in Madrid - our guide took good care of planning a GF tapas tour.

Ronda
1. Tapería Las Campanas (sin gluten). A "real" Tapas experience on square.

Granada
1. Aparicio’s - good food and service. Great dessert sampler. Highly recommend.
2. Pasteleria m. isla - local crowd busy bakery.

Toledo -
1. Alfileritos 24 - nice restaurant and good service.

Jerez -
1. 0% gluten. Nice salads. Good for takeaway empanadas. Yummy looking loafs of bread.

Seville
1. El Pasaje. Very upscale. Nice staff.
2. Sede Mexico - and interesting take on Mexican food. They say they are 98% gluten free.
3. Senora pan. Flavorful. Nice staff.

Posted by
1155 posts

Holli - I was diagnosed with celiac 20+ years ago. This was before anyone in the US knew what the heck gluten was and certainly there were no gluten-free items available in "normal" grocery stores. I just wanted to tell you that this will get easier. I have traveled a lot since then. Honestly - it's hardly even part of my planning anymore. I might google "gluten free XX city" just to see if anything interesting pops out, but I've found that generally people in Europe are so much more aware than here in the US. I rarely seek out dedicated GF restaurants. It is interesting that Spain was your first post-diagnosis trip, though, because that was probably the most challenging country of any other I've visited!

We just returned from our second trip this year to Italy - THAT is the place to go for someone with celiac disease. It's so counterintuitive, but it's true. Wish I could post pictures here to show you all the wonderful GF foods I ate!
My husband dreams of travelling to Japan and that does cause me some apprehension. I want to go, too, so will make it happen but will do more research, or maybe even opt for a tour (not something we'd normally do).

Posted by
1405 posts

There is a really high level of celiac disease in Italy which is why it’s so widely known about there.

Posted by
14741 posts

Holli, thanks so much for your Trip Report! I've traveled with a friend who is GF (not celiac) and like Celeste, she finds many European countries much more up on GF food.

I'm so happy your guide was able to advocate for you and yes, good idea to get to the breakfast as soon as it opens. Very nice that the one place set aside food for you the next day. I also agree with Celeste that travel will probably get easier as you get used to your diagnosis.

Again, thanks for posting. This thread will be a good reference for others down the line!

Posted by
5850 posts

Francisco is just the best! He was my guide in the Basque region. Coincidentally, someone on my tour had celiac and I recall Francisco taking care to arrange for gluten-free meals.

Thanks for the report. I can see how mealtimes would be stressful.

Posted by
7803 posts

I don’t know if this denotes a higher degree of dietary helpfulness, but my husband & I noticed during our recent trip to England that every waiter or waitress asked us when taking our order at restaurants or shops if we had any allergies.