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Stay in Santillana del Mar or in nearby village?

We will be spending two nights in the Santillana del Mar area during Holy Week (April 16-18). Our main interest will be visiting prehistoric caves (Altamira replica and other original caves nearby). I have read that Santillana del Mar is a very charming medieval town, but that it has become too touristic (Disney-esque was the description). I am holding reservations (refundable) at the Hotel Altamira in town, as well as at 2 other options in nearby villages (Posada La Cotia; Posada Las Torres). I would appreciate any input on whether to stay in Santillana or at one of the posadas outside of town. (We’ll be driving from Bilbao and afterwards heading to Picos de Europa.) Thank you!

Posted by
3874 posts

I have a feeling that Santillana del Mar, like other charming towns in Spain (Toledo, Cordoba, Girona etc.) really comes alive in the afternoon, when all the daytrip-ers have left and one has this charming medieval town pretty much to one's self.

However, even when I was there in the summer of 2016, while it was crowded, I wouldn't called it a Disneyland. Also, keep in mind that you are traveling in the spring time, which is not exactly high season for northern Spain, as compared to the summer time. I think you will be fine staying in Santillana del Mar.

Posted by
847 posts

Definitely stay in Santillana. You want to be there when the day trippers are gone, which you do by not being one of them. We stayed there for three nights two summers ago and loved it. One day we visited the caves, another we day tripped out to others towns in the area. It gets a lot of tourists (but I agree with the previous poster that even in summer it is not that bad) but that's because it's a gorgeous medieval town - one that "Disney" wishes it could recreate. But this is the real thing.

My photos of it are in this gallery - https://andiamo.zenfolio.com/p326887656

Posted by
6386 posts

Yes, Santillana Del Mar is a tourist destination and is full of tourists during the day. After they leave, the town is deserted and you have it all to yourself. Unless you want to drive to everything, stay in Santillana. The posadas you mentioned are off by themselves, so there wouldn’t be much to do in the evening. I’m certain you already know, but Santillana Del Mar is car free during the day, so if you will have a car, you may want to find out where the hotel’s parking lot is. When we were there for our 3rd time in May 2017, we stayed at the Parador Santillana Gil Blas since the Paradors have a lot in the center of town and one can drive to it during the day. Other hotels cannot.

If this will be your first time there, it will take you at least a half day to see everything. While near the church, believe they are along Plaza de Arenas, look for the brass shells in the street that mark the way for pilgrims walking the northern leg of the Camino de Santiago. On one of our visits years ago, we drove over to the coast to check out the scenery.

Posted by
472 posts

Ahh, Santillana! We stayed three nights, in July 2014, at La Casa del Organista, loved the town & the hotel. Quiet room on the 3rd floor with sloping beams, stone walls, flowery-vined balcony with view, modern plumbing, nice breakfast & staff, parking on site. Great charming little streets to meander, horses grazing in meadows, likable cafes, friendly locals. If it's Disneyesque, the shoe's on the other foot - Walt could have used Santillana as a template for Beautiful Medieval Town. Amazing Altamira was a 2km-ish walk, with excellent museum & cafe. The church will doubtless have Holy Week events, plus there's an affecting museum of ordinary life & another of the diocese - not just Spanish artworks but dazzling Peruvian silver, African ivory, Filipino mahogany, spoils of the Spanish empire; we surprised ourselves and spent hours at both, mostly alone, in midsummer. Daytripper busloads trooped thru town but seemed to not get beyond the shops & the lovely main square.

Posted by
26 posts

Thank you so much for your replies, Isabel, Jaime and Stewart/Vicki! I really appreciate your taking the time to share your experience and insight.
Isabel, I have been looking at your various photo galleries -- beautiful pics and so nicely presented. Very helpful in planning where to go!