South of Spain

For me the top four destinations south of Madrid are Toledo, Cordoba, Seville and Granada. Seville is the largest and needs the most time--I'd say a minimum of four nights. I think Cordoba's worth at least one night; Toledo and Granada are each worth at least two nights. If you like to explore off the beaten path, an extra night in every one of those places will pay off for you. (I had an extra two nights during my 2019 trip, and I had no problem at all filling my time.)

There are many other really interesting destinations just in Andalucia: Cadiz, Malaga, Ubeda/Baeza, Ronda, the white villages (Arcos de la Frontera, etc.)... You need to pick up a comprehensive guidebook to see what places sound most interesting to you. Jerez, for example, has sherry bodegas and horse shows. Smaller towns with particularly pretty architecture include Carmona, Priego de Cordoba and Vejer de la Frontera. Twenty days allows for a nice visit, but you cannot do everything in that time, even if you limit yourselves to Andalucia. All the places I've listed are accessible by public transportation (usually by train). Many people like to rent a car for the segment of their trip between Granada and Seville so they can easily stop in Ronda and some of the white villages; that is more time-consuming if you have to piece together train and bus schedules.

For more off-the-beaten path destinations you could branch out to Estremadura. Caceres and Trujillo are very atmospheric places where few American tourists venture. I found Merida less attractive, but it does have some Roman ruins and quite a nice archaeological museum.

Mixing small town charm with big city attractions, I'd recommend this:

Cordoba (3 nights)
Ubeda (2 nights)
Granada (3 nights)
White Hill Towns (3 nights)
Cadiz (2 nights)
Sevilla (5 nights)
Madrid (1 night)
Fly out

I was doing some reading and our daughter rides equestrian. (LOVES horse) Would like to visita Jerez de la Frontera.. I like your itinerary however I need to fit this one in.. Where would you put it in?

Jerez is on the rail line between Cadiz and Seville. With a bit of online research, you can probably find a place to check bags in Jerez so you can visit that city en route.

With a car you could alternatively hit Jerez after you finish with the white villages, before spending time in Cadiz.

Another thought is that there is bus service from Jerez to Arcos de la Frontera. If you end up feeling crunched for time (the proposed itinerary does not include Toledo, which I rank very highly) and have time for only one white village, Arcos would be a good choice. I believe Jerez is the best jumping-off point for Arcos if you happen not to rent a car. In this case, I think you'd need to spend a night in Jerez (or Arcos) to allow enough time to see both places. I'm just guessing, though; I haven't looked up the bus schedule.

Thank you for all the GREAT suggestions:

Heres where Im at

Madrid 3 nights first day to relax then day trip to Toledo and maybe Warner Brother for kids. a night with Tablao and maybe a bull fight (not sure if my daughter would attend as she is adamant about it)

Cordoba 3 nights

Seville 4 nights

Jerez de la Frontera 3 nights

Cadiz 2 nights

Ubeda (trip to Jaen bc husbands family is from there) 2 nights

Madrid (2 nights) Home

Thoughts?

I would change the time in Jerez to 3 nights in Granada. You can see lovely horses in Cordoba you don't need to go to Jerez and Granada well it's Granada, just wonderful. The Alhambra, buskers, it is an amazing town and should not be missed. J

Jerez de la Frontera can easily be done as a daytrip from Cadiz, or vice-versa

I would like to put in a good word for Jerez de la Frontera, where I spent a few days in December 2019. (Way outside the tourist season, and before Covid -- though just barely.) I have zilch interest in horses, and while there I saw neither a horse show, nor a single horse; yet among the several towns and cities I've seen across my trips to Spain, Jerez is one of my favorites. Though I suppose I can't recommend it as unconditionally as one might recommend the Alhambra, or Paris, there was a lot I liked about it. For one thing, it seemed to be a real flamenco town. Second, it seemed to be a real sherry town, and I enjoyed visiting the small, humble tabancos -- sherry bars -- where it's served. And it is such a sherry town, that you don't order "sherry" in a tabanco -- you specify your favored kind (oloroso, amotillado, fino, etc.). And it was in those humble tabancos that with no prior knowledge or reservation, I walked right into some totally un-touristy flamenco performances.

Jerez does have its authentic "tourist sites" as well, but most of all, it was the overall ambience of the city that I liked: an intriguing, authentic medieval center; quaint old neighborhoods surrounding it, and the overall feeling that I might have been the first tourist to discover the city (though I probably wasn't!). Admittedly this was mid-December; however, just before Jerez I had visited Cordoba, and though I loved it as well, it was clearly a tourist-oriented town, even if the hordes were not there at the time. (There were still more than I would have preferred to see, though.)
So even though I can't insist that it should be everyone's high priority, Jerez is certainly worth considering for the right kinds of visitors. It's hard to pin down who they might be, but among others, I'm sure they would include those who, when they talk about seeing "the real Spain," or "getting off the beaten path," really mean it!.

I liked Carlos' suggestions. Seville is the place, it is special.

I did a day trip to Jerez from Sevilla just to see the horse show. It's just an hour trip by train or 90 minutes by bus. We bought round trip tickets to be sure we had a seat back to Sevilla.

Nestor

Hi marticabellido and everyone here,

This is a very interesting thread. I am also planning 20 days in Andalusia for September from September 10 till Sept 30.
But we are flying in and out of Malaga via Lisbon. I read Rick Steven's guidebook and also waiting for the Andalusia guidebook from Lonely Planet.

I am also trying to be on weekends in Seville and Grenada because I think they are much more lovely on weekends with activities and nightlife around. Weekdays I can spend in sleepy villages. So far, my plan is as follows:

Malaga 2 nights (arriving late on Saturday, rent. a car there)
La Linea - for visit to Gibraltar
Cadiz - 2 nights
Ronda - 2 nights (check Arcos de la Frontera on the way to Ronda)
Seville - (5 nights, arriving on Saturday). I have been to Seville 5 years ago, in spring, for 2 days, and ended up at their April fair, it was awesome). Drop the car.
Granada (4 nighs) arriving on Thursday
Cordoba (2 nights)
Ubeda (2 nighs)
Malaga - fly out

How does this plan sound? Do I stay too much in Seville or Granada? Any other interesting places around to visit as a day trips?

@EugeneD

You may want to just start your own thread, just so responses here aren't scrambled eggs between the two itineraries. The two itineraries actually have subtle but significant differences (I.e you don't have to fly in/out of Madrid) ;-)

I definitely want to do Seville for 5 nights. We were there 4 years ago for about 3 nights and just fell in love. I dont know why I have the same feeling about Jerez..

As it stands this is what I have

Madrid 3 nights

Cordoba 3 nights

Seville 5 nights

Jerez 3 nights (Or I might consider going from Seville, not sure yet)

Cadiz 2 nights

WHere should I do a trip to Jaen from to not stay there?

I have about 3 nights left over.. WHere should I go or where should I add them and do day trips?

We are not into the arts. Some history for my husband and son. We mostly like small villages, meeting the locals, walking and seeing beautiful sights and great food and wine! No tourist traps (mainly why we travel Sept and Oct)

Thanks!

I have about 3 nights left over.. WHere should I go or where should I add them and do day trips?

Definitely Granada, I would not drop from it from your itinerary.

If you are looking for small towns that are not "tourist traps", you can look at Baños de la Encina, just north of Jaén. Here's an article on it https://elviajero.elpais.com/elviajero/2022/05/23/actualidad/1653303200_918181.html

I will add Granada
Would it be a good.idea to rent a car in Seville (5 nights) and drive to Jerez and Cadiz?

As for your preceding question, regarding a car along the Seville-Jerez-Cadiz route: I would advise against it. They're not that far from each other, and there's good train service.

Skip the tablao in Madrid and go to authentic flamenco performances in Sevilla instead. My favorite is La Casa del Flamenco. There's also a horse show at the Royal Stables in Cordoba that's different from the one in Jerez and seats are much closer to the horses. Please read up on bullfights before you choose to attend one. From what I've heard they are gory and cruel.

You have said a couple times that you aren't really interested in Madrid, but you have 3N there at the beginning and, presumably at least 1 at the end before your departure flight. Consider going to Toledo when you arrive and spend 2-3N there, then go to Cordoba. Spend any time you feel you need in Madrid at the end.

Everyone has favorites and you'll only know yours after you've been there. So here's my opinion.

5N in Jerez and Cadiz is overkill. You don't need a car but if you're renting a car afterward, it could be useful, if expensive, here. Remember, in addition to the daily rental cost, you have to find and pay for parking. I used Jerez as a base, went to Cadiz by train (1 day trip was enough for me, you may want another day if you want a beach day), and to Arcos by bus (well worth a day trip, though a half day could suffice). I didn't find Jerez particularly attractive or interesting. The main draws are the sherry bodegas - Tio Pepe is fun - and the horses. Be sure that your stay coincides with a show, since they aren't every day.

3N in Granada is good, 2N is the minimum. I rented a car when I left Jerez. Drive through the hills, visiting some of the white hill towns, the views are beautiful and some of the towns are very interesting. I like to stay in Ronda. Then return the car in Granada. You can stop in Antequera on the way to Granada.

THe reason for the 3 nights in Madrid is bc I travel with one child on the spectrum and he will be a little overwhelmed when we land so I give him a day or 2 to adjust. I will absolutely take you up on the Tablao as in Madrid we have seen a couple already.
Im a little confused.. Where should I rent the car? Granada or Jerez?

Madrid 3 nights
Cordoba 3 nights
Seville 5 nights
Jerez 3 nights (rent car and go to Cadiz) drive to the White hills

Sounds better?

I had to rearrange things bc I reserved some horse activities in Jerez for our Equestrian rider (daughter)
This is what I have

Arrive in Madrid Sept 30 Stay 3 nights
Granada 3 nights
Jerez 3 nights
Seville 5 nights
Cordoba 3 nights
Madrid 1 night then home

Thoughts?

I do have to go to Jaen and thought it was best to do so from Granada.. Anything else I should be thinking about?