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Side Trips to Ronda + Arcos de la Frontera

We have a couple of extra days in our itinerary, and I was looking at Ronda, Arcos de la Frontera and Nerja, as recommended by Rick in his itinerary. All look interesting, and I think a day trip to Nerja to see the caves would be possible from our stay in Granada. After leaving Granada, what is the best way to get around to Ronda and Arcos de la Frontera? I'd be trying to go to those places, and then up to Cordoba, and Seville. Basically, are Ronda and Arcos de la Frontera worth the trips? Is train travel, the bus, or a car rental best for this, if we choose to do it? Thanks for any input.

Also, is it possible to rent a car in Granada (and drop it off in, say, Cordoba?).

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7730 posts

I think both are worth visiting with Ronda meriting an overnight. Some people don’t like Ronda and say skip it because it can get very crowded during the main tourist season. Only you can decide. I wouldn’t skip visiting a place because some people don’t like it.

The White Villages, if going to more than Ronda, are probably best seen with a rental car. Arcos de la Frontera is about an hour drive from Ronda. Depending on which route you’re taking one can stop at either Grazalema or Zahara de la Sierra for a short visit en route.

I always get a rental car so can’t speak to getting around the White Villages in a timely manner using public transportation.

Posted by
543 posts

We also always rent a car so cannot help with bus or train. Do not know where else your trip will take you but, of all of Andalucia, the places we would not return are Ronda (super touristy and crowded), Arcos de la Frontera (great view, no more) and Nerja (an expat community). We too went based on reading RS. Instead, in addition to Seville, Cordoba and Granada, would suggest Malaga, Tarifa and, perhaps, Cadiz. If you are interested in walking El Caminito del Rey, which is awesome, you could stay in Arriate and take a peek at Ronda.

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31 posts

Thanks to all. I'm sensing that I would need a rental car here, probably from Granada to start. Thanks, mml, for sharing your experience, and that you did follow Rick's advice to go to those towns. I will heed you advice, and probably look to other places than Ronda + Arcos de la Frontera. I'm not sure it's worth the time and trouble to get there, if it means renting a car. I am looking into Tarifa and Cadiz, although Rick had written that the main reason to go to Tarifa is as a way to get to Tangier. So, I'm not sure what it would have to offer, unless we wanted to be in a port city, or have beach time (the beaches do look gorgeous there.) I'll have to see how it would fit into our schedule.

Posted by
7730 posts

Between Tarifa and Cádiz, Cádiz would be my choice. For a smaller town Jerez de la Frontera might be worth looking into. Neither Tarifa, Cádiz, nor Jerez have any wow sites.

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31 posts

Thanks again, jaime. That clarifies a lot for me, and I was getting that impression. I will look more closely at Cadiz, and probably forgo Tarifa for now (no interest in going to Tangier). I'll also look into Jerez de la Frontera. There was a beautiful sand dune beach in a place called Bolonia, although I don't know if that's attached to Cadiz or not.

Posted by
513 posts

The sand dune in Bolonia is mind-blowing, and is is next to the ancientn Roman site of Baelo Claudio with the Roman remnants and an excellent small museum. This is a bit of a drive from Cadiz but roads are great in this area and it is an easy drive. Not too far away is Zahara de los Atunes with a glorious sandy beach.

I hope you do not take this the wrong way, but towns including Ronda and Arcos are so firmly on the tourist track the many visitors do not realize that there are dozens upon dozens of beautiful "white villages and towns" in Andalucia, many which are far less inundated by tour buses and hordes of day trippers.

I spent a month or more every year in this area and would be happy to comment if you have interest in the areas of Cadiz, Jerez, Barbate, and the jewel of a town, Vejer de la Frontera, with its adjacent beach of El Palmar de Vejer. I've just returned from visit to Seville, Jerez, and Vejer.

I always rent a car and would advise you to do so if you want to explore the smaller towns.
Jerez is a glorious "white city," one of the jewels of Spain, with plenty to do and see, and some great restaurants.
Sanlucar de Barrameda is another gem, about an hour or so from Cadiz or from Jerez.

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543 posts

Tarifa and Cadiz are not comparable. Tarifa is a small town and Cadiz a small city. We enjoyed Tarifa more for the lovely, small historic center, the local religious celebration we happened upon, the gorgeous accommodation where stayed and the amazing view over to Africa. Cadiz was much more urban feeling and, to us, less interesting. Maybe if we had not had that cultural experience in Tarifa we would feel differently.

Posted by
513 posts

And Taifa is one of the towns on the route de almadraba, the annual Spring catching of blue-fin tuna using methods dating to ancient times. When will your trip take place?

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31 posts

Eks, great post, BTW. Thanks for all of the helpful information. I was getting the sense that Ronda and Arcos were more crowded, and thanks for the ideas for the other towns. We have several days in Seville, and I'm wondering if a day trip to Jerez and Cadiz might meet the need. You described Jerez as a jewel of Spain, and it doesn't look too far from Seville, so maybe that and Cadiz could make for a good day tour? I'd probably need to rent a car for that day, which might be easier to just pick up and return in Seville? I'll look into the other suggestions you made, as well.

Posted by
7730 posts

Jerez de la Frontera is an hour from Sevilla and Cádiz is about 30 minutes further. Jerez is nice, but I wouldn’t call it a jewel. Sanlucar is fairly laid back, but to me, it’s nothing special. I guess it all depends on what you like to do and see. Different people, different opinions. Only you can decide.

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513 posts

I do think Jerez is a jewel. I've stayed there a total of four nights in the pst two years and will go back next winter.
Gorgeous architecture, amazing amount of high quality restaurants for a city of its size, lots of greenery, piazzas with cafes, the sherry bodegas, the horse show, and most of all, the warm and welcoming people.

Not to mention one of the finest hotels in Andalucia.

Sanlucar is, to me, a charming town on the river with a great, vital main plaza and a strip of wonderful restaurants along the river, walking distance from the Centro. It comes alive at night, so if someone has been only during the heat of the afternoon, its appeal might be elusive, I think. it's also a jump off point for the trips into the Donana National Park. And there are those sweets baked by the nuns in the convent de Santa Clara...buying those is a real experience; you can do this in Sevilla, too, of course, and in other towns and cities.

If you are in the area during almadraba (but its in May) I would see if you can partake of this once-in-a lifetime experience; you'd have to sign up for a tour, which would be weather dependent. People from all over Spain and beyond flock to the four towns on the route to taste the bluefin in all its various guises..... It's a party atmosphere
but also allows the opportunity to witness the capture of the tuna using methods dating back to the Phoencians. The four town of the almadraba--Tarifa, Zahara, Conil and Barbatee (each are quite different from one another)..together are probably found zero for aficionados of bluefin tuna. May Japanese come to this area to eat at the legendary tuna restaurants, of which the most famous is EL CAMPERO in Barbate. Even if you are in the area in May, if you have any interest in food, you will want to have at least one meal there....

But that's just one highlight of this area; this is all within the Province of Cadiz and, for me, one of the most beautiful parts of the province is the area called La Janda, with Vejer de la Frontera as its main inland focus. Although the town is not well known to the average North American travelers, along with a few nearby hamlets and towns, it's one of the food meccas of southern Spain and the scenery, hills, beaches, meadows, around there take my breath away. I'm admittedly biased, and I keep returning. The town of Medina Sidonia is known throughout Spin for its pastries and its glorious 'white' architecture but when I went a few weeks ago, there wrecked no tour groups and no one speaking a language other than Spanish in one of the 'Venta" restaurants that have fame throughout the area. Each town even has its own food specialties!

it's just a totally different scene than places like Ronda and Arcos which are no doubt handsome but so much a part of the tourist trail that for em, the draw is no longer there. if you do go to Ronda, at least stay overnight; there are some very good restaurants and places to take in the views.

But there are also so many towns that get almost no mention here that also have grand scenery, white cubist architecture, views from the heights, etc etc.....but since they do not get mentioned in many English-language guidebooks, they do not draw the day trippers and the tour groups.

As Jamie says, it depends on what you are looking for.....

Even in Seville, you can surround yourself with the tourist following their leader's little flags, or you can wander around in areas that seem, to me at least, to represent the Spain of the yers perhaps before this current Insta-selfie age.... And Jerez for whatever reason, apart from the bodegas and the horses, is just a charming Andaluz city where a visitor is seen not just as one of many but as a valued guest. This all sounds very sappy but that's th experience I've had in those places nd that's part of the reason I keep going back, although by now I've visited most of the more obvious regions of the country.