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Semana Santa redux

I've been working on my itinerary off and on for a while. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions, I have made notes of them all. I still have a couple of holes. Maybe you have suggestions.

My only available airports are Madrid and Barcelona. The cities listed are where I'll spend the night.

  1. Barcelona Thursday March 10. Land 10 am
  2. Barcelona
  3. Barcelona
  4. Barcelona
  5. Barcelona
  6. train (3.5 hrs) to Valencia
  7. Valencia - Las Fallas (Fire Festival)
  8. Valencia - Las Fallas
  9. 5.15 pm train (3.5 hrs) to Cordoba
  10. Cordoba
  11. morning train (1 hr) to Malaga on Palm Sunday
  12. Malaga - Semana Santa
  13. train (2-2.5 hrs) to Seville - Semana Santa
  14. Seville - Semana Santa
  15. Seville - Semana Santa
  16. Seville - Semana Santa (Good Friday)
  17. 6 p.m. bus (2 hours) to Arcos
  18. Arcos - Easter Sunday
  19. 4 p.m. bus (2 hours) to Seville, then 6.45 pm train (2.5 hrs) to Madrid
  20. Madrid
  21. Madrid
  22. 11 p.m. flight

Cordoba The only reason I put Cordoba between Valencia and Malaga is the train service. There are direct trains from Valencia to Cordoba, but not to anywhere else in Andalusia. I want to spend at least one full day in Cordoba at some point in this trip.
Malaga/Seville I'm not sure whether to stay 3 nights each or 2 and 4 (as above). The hotel in Seville is about €120 more per night, but it is Seville . . .

Arcos I was told that Arcos is lots of fun on Easter Sunday. But it's not so easy to get to without a car. There's only one direct bus from Seville on weekends/holidays. The only other option seems to be train to Jerez, then bus to Arcos. I'm open to suggestions for somewhere else to spend those 2 days.
Madrid It's on the itinerary mostly because that's where I'm flying out of. I've been before and not all that keen on spending much time there. Thought I might day-trip to Segovia, maybe Toledo (been before). I might also consider adding 1-2 days to Barcelona and cutting them off Madrid at the end.

Posted by
7175 posts

Reading your itinerary Chani and I feel like an addict suffering withdrawal. Spain is my drug.
It all sounds wonderful, and I am sure (knowing your rigorous planning) you will have a sensational time.
I am very jealous.

Posted by
154 posts

This as a well thought out itinerary and I am glad to see you aren't trying to spend one night in any location. Even on the quick stops I think you'll be happy that you gave yourself a full day to explore. Even if you don't do much in Madrid it is a good city to just relax and eat in. Being at the end of your very full trip you may need a vacation from your vacation. Hope it is a great trip!

Posted by
33 posts

Barcelona Thursday March 10. Land 10 am
Barcelona
Barcelona
Barcelona
train (3.5 hrs) to Valencia
Valencia
Valencia - Las Fallas (Fire Festival)
Valencia - Las Fallas
Valencia
Valencia
morning train to Malaga on Palm Sunday Domingo de Ramos
Malaga - Semana Santa Lunes Santo
Malaga Semana Santa Martes Santo
train (2-2.5 hrs) to Seville - Semana Santa Miercoles Santo
Seville - Semana Santa Jueves Santo - Madrugá
Seville - Semana Santa (Good Friday) Viernes Santo
Bus to Granada in the morning - Sabado Santo
Granada . Domingo de Resurrecion
Train to Madrid
Madrid
11 p.m. flight

By easter there are direct trains from Valencia to Malaga (still very early to get your tickets)

By the way the most important days in the Fallas are the 18th and the 19th of march.

18th march - "La Nit del Foc" (Noche del Fuego) - Night of fire diring more than 20 mints, thousand of kg of fireworks (2450 Kg, year 2015)

19th march - La Nit de la Cremà (La Noche de la Cremà) - Last party day. - At midnight Valencia is a fire city (under control)

I would stay 3 days in Malaga and 3 in Seville, for two reasons, in Seville you have the madruga on thrusday to friday so there are processions on thursday from 3 pm until 2 am on the saturday...and also Seville will be more crowdy so you might get tired to walk and wait for a procession, meanwhile Malaga is crowdy but nothing compare to Sevilla.

Arcos for me is not an option, it might be fun for you because a bull is on the streets, but for me is animal violence, instead I would go to Granada and pay a visit to the Alhambra and also if you stay on saturday you might see the Santa Maria de la Alhambra procession.

Here you have the time table for the proccesions in Malaga and Sevilla in 2015 it might change for 2016 but only little changes to be made.

Malaga http://agrupaciondecofradias.es/images/noticias/Itinerarios_Oficiales_2015.pdf

Sevilla http://www.hermandades-de-sevilla.org/hermandades/horarios

Good luck and if you have more questions, don´t hesitate to ask.

Posted by
15784 posts

Hola, Andalucia and welcome!

I think 3 days in Valencia will test the limits of my tolerance for noise, from what I've read. I'd like to spend the last days of Las Fallas there, but I simply can't afford the hotel prices, which go way up on Thursday and absolutely skyrocket on Friday. Unfortunately, that still leaves me with 2 "open days" before Malaga. I'm thinking about just going to Madrid for a couple of nights.

I haven't decided if I'll split 2/4 or 3/3 nights between Malaga and Sevilla. Thanks for the great links. I'll do some more studying! I was planning to see a couple of sights in Sevilla besides the processions, one reason I thought to stay there a day longer.

You've convinced me to give up Arcos. I like your idea of going to Granada instead. Maybe by March the works on the rail lines will be completed and it will be easier to get there.

I plan to end my trip in Cordoba - my favorite - and take the train to Barajas.

I started thinking about all the things I want to do in Barcelona . . . now I'm thinking about adding a day or two there at the front end of my trip.

It's better now, but is it good yet?

Posted by
33 posts

Hola de nuevo Chani!

You are right about the noise and also it was a bit scary for me when a petardo explote next to my face, the valencian people are use to it, but for me it was a big shock.

Well, take the positive side, you have two days and you can do what you want! If you like big cities, them Madrid is fine for you, but if you want something nice and different I recommend you to go from Valencia to Cuenca and them to Toledo, both small and charming cities.

I give you another option for the couple of days you don´t know what to do yet, go to inland Malaga province and you will love Ronda, if you like adventure, you could try El Caminito del Rey and also visit Ardales and Alora.

About the sights in Sevilla besides the processions, just be sure that they don´t limit the acess because of the semana santa , in example the cathedral is open 11 am to 3 pm but the Alcazar opens as usual.

I´m a bit negative about the works on the rail lines but you should know that you can buy your train ticket and a bus will take you to Antequera train station and then you can finish your journey in the AVE to Cordoba.

By the way you are right, Cordoba is amazing, many people only go there for a day trip and is really a pity.

Once you decide the days you are finally staying in Malaga and Seville I´ll tell you some tips what you shouldn´t miss every day. One thing is very important when watching procesiones, what makes the difference is not what you see but where you see it. You can see a procession in a big avenue and is ok, but go to a small lane and you´ll feel the music, the atmosphere, the art, the smells of inciense mixed with the flowers and the candless...I love both semanas santas, they are so similar but also so different that is great to get to know both.

Posted by
15784 posts

Hola de nuevo Andalucia (I learned a new phrase, gracias)

I have been trying to find a low cost hotel in Granada for 2 nights without much luck. Every place I have seen that has a good location and under €200 for 2 nights (Saturday night rates are very high) has too many reviews saying it is very noisy (either street noise or thin walls) and I am a light sleeper. If I don't find something reasonable, I will probably just go to Cordoba on Saturday, stay 3-4 nights and then fly home.

So that is the solution to the end of the trip, instead of Arcos.

I still have a "hole" between Valencia and Malaga. If I go directly to Malaga, then I would have 4 nights there. It seems like a lot, but I have never been there, so I don't know how much there is to see or if there are interesting day trips, by bus or train??? Since I do not want to hire a car, I think Cuenca is too remote. I thought of Madrid just because it is easy, one train, then metro to the hotel. Spend a few hours in the Thyssen, do laundry. Saturday, El Prado, maybe a park and/or walking tour if the weather is good. Catch up on sleep after Las Fallas :-)

Posted by
33 posts

My advice is not to book so early as you´ll have more and cheaper options a month or so before, and also look in Airbnb, you can find good rates.

4 nights in Malaga mght be good if you like nature you can go to Caminito del Rey or El Torcal. Alora, Antequera, Ronda, Nerja, Frigiliana all are interesting day trips from Malaga by bus or train.

Posted by
15784 posts

not to book so early as you´ll have more and cheaper options a month or so before . . . except it's Easter. Anyway my hotels bookings are all cancellable.

4 nights in Malaga . . . Caminito del Rey or El Torcal. Alora, Antequera, Ronda, Nerja, Frigiliana all are interesting day trips from Malaga by bus or train. I won't have a car, so only by bus or train. I've been to El Torcal, Antequera and Ronda.

Still hoping to find a place in Granada for Easter - the place I stayed at last time (great location and cheap) is booked up - I wrote to them.

I do appreciate your suggestions. It's always good to think about, and even to file for the next trip, if it doesn't work out this time.